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#18026 From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
Date: Wed Nov 25, 2009 12:23 am
Subject: Re: BRAKE QUESTION - pads vs. shoes
peder_y2k
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Spray type brake cleaner works well to wash the crap off the brakes surfaces so they can be new and clean-like. Pads are associated disc brakes, shoes with drum brakes, and strap with band brakes............or so it is in this part of the world.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250

--- On Tue, 11/24/09, mattsix2 <mattsix@...> wrote:

From: mattsix2 <mattsix@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] BRAKE QUESTION - pads vs. shoes
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009, 11:36 PM

 
hi guys,

i am new to scooters and my brakes are squeaking so it's time for some work. hard to find mechanic who works on ch250s (plus something i can afford), so i'd like to try myself.

i have an 85 and looked at the 86 service manual and am getting the parts now, is there a difference between pads and shoes? any recommended brands/types?

any tips or advice? didn't see any tech tips for brakes, but i will be using rear wheel removal for dummies. i hope i just have to pop some new shoes and springs in there drum itself is ok. some articles online say to use a lot of brake solvent before putting it all back together, what you think?

really appreciate the help!



#18025 From: "mattsix2" <mattsix@...>
Date: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:36 pm
Subject: BRAKE QUESTION - pads vs. shoes
mattsix2
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
hi guys,

i am new to scooters and my brakes are squeaking so it's time for some work. 
hard to find mechanic who works on ch250s (plus something i can afford), so i'd
like to try myself.

i have an 85 and looked at the 86 service manual and am getting the parts now,
is there a difference between pads and shoes?  any recommended brands/types?

any tips or advice?  didn't see any tech tips for brakes, but i will be using
rear wheel removal for dummies.  i hope i just have to pop some new shoes and
springs in there drum itself is ok.  some articles online say to use a lot of
brake solvent before putting it all back together, what you think?

really appreciate the help!

#18024 From: in transit <fpgaman_2000@...>
Date: Tue Nov 24, 2009 5:54 am
Subject: Re: CDI unit equivalant
fpgaman_2000
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
double check your spark plug cable also, it is a weak link.
 

--- On Mon, 11/23/09, bobwenten <bobwenten@...> wrote:

From: bobwenten <bobwenten@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] CDI unit equivalant
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 23, 2009, 4:45 PM

 
Is the CDI unit from a 85-87 CH250 the same as a CDI unit from a 85-87 CH150? The connections look the same and the boxes look the same. Is there any risk involved in swapping them? I'm trying to locate an intermittent no spark situation, and I think it is centered at the CDI.



#18023 From: "bobwenten" <bobwenten@...>
Date: Tue Nov 24, 2009 5:08 am
Subject: Re: CDI unit equivalant
bobwenten
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks for the info.

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
wrote:
>
> It will be OK for testing, but would not trust it for full operation as the
timing advance control curve is likely to be different enough that it could make
a difference...such as burned valves and melted piston.
>  
> -Pete, in Tacoma WA
> '89 & 85/6 CH250
>
> --- On Tue, 11/24/09, bobwenten <bobwenten@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: bobwenten <bobwenten@...>
> Subject: [CH250HondaElite] CDI unit equivalant
> To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009, 12:45 AM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> Is the CDI unit from a 85-87 CH250 the same as a CDI unit from a 85-87 CH150?
The connections look the same and the boxes look the same. Is there any risk
involved in swapping them? I'm trying to locate an intermittent no spark
situation, and I think it is centered at the CDI.
>

#18022 From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
Date: Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:25 am
Subject: Re: CDI unit equivalant
peder_y2k
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
It will be OK for testing, but would not trust it for full operation as the timing advance control curve is likely to be different enough that it could make a difference...such as burned valves and melted piston.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250

--- On Tue, 11/24/09, bobwenten <bobwenten@...> wrote:

From: bobwenten <bobwenten@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] CDI unit equivalant
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009, 12:45 AM

 
Is the CDI unit from a 85-87 CH250 the same as a CDI unit from a 85-87 CH150? The connections look the same and the boxes look the same. Is there any risk involved in swapping them? I'm trying to locate an intermittent no spark situation, and I think it is centered at the CDI.



#18021 From: "bobwenten" <bobwenten@...>
Date: Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:45 am
Subject: CDI unit equivalant
bobwenten
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Is the CDI unit from a 85-87 CH250 the same as a CDI unit from a 85-87 CH150?
The connections look the same and the boxes look the same. Is there any risk
involved in swapping them?  I'm trying to locate an intermittent no spark
situation, and I think it is centered at the CDI.

#18020 From: bob merck <rfmerck@...>
Date: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:30 pm
Subject: RE: 1987 Honda CH250 [1 Attachment]
rmerck44
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
ASKING PRICE, CONDITION, YEAR, WHERE IN FL. WHY R U SELLING. A better, larger
PIC would be welcome.
 

To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
From: kickinthewater@...
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 03:57:27 -0800
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] 1987 Honda CH250 [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from Mike Miller included below]
Selling my scooter with new tires, new seat cover, new battery, some new Honda parts go with.  Great condition with about 13K.  Central Florida location.  Mike




Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. Sign up now.

#18019 From: Mike Miller <kickinthewater@...>
Date: Mon Nov 23, 2009 11:57 am
Subject: 1987 Honda CH250
kickinthewater
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Selling my scooter with new tires, new seat cover, new battery, some new Honda parts go with.  Great condition with about 13K.  Central Florida location.  Mike


1 of 1 Photo(s)


#18018 From: "scootman1725" <scootman1725@...>
Date: Sun Nov 22, 2009 9:22 am
Subject: Re: 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
scootman1725
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
The value of a resistor is determined by it's color code.  The link below is a
website to help calculate the value in ohm's.

http://samengstrom.com/nxl/36604_band_resistor_color_code_page.en.html

If the link isn't clickable just copy and paste into your browser.

Good Luck!

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, "Kelly" <bikedude@...> wrote:
>
> I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical
problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad
regulator.
>
> Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit.  I burned out what I
think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD.  It is labeled R1 on
the board.  Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can
repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio
Shack and solder it in.  Does anyone know where I could get this information. 
If I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off
of that.
>
> thanks
>

#18017 From: in transit <fpgaman_2000@...>
Date: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:38 am
Subject: Re: Re: 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
fpgaman_2000
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
D1 is a diode and could be blown w/o visible signs of it.  you should test it w/ a multimeter.


--- On Sat, 11/21/09, Kelly <bikedude@...> wrote:

From: Kelly <bikedude@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] Re: 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 21, 2009, 10:16 PM

 
Excellent, thanks. R1 was the only one visibly blown, I mean there was nothing left of it, just soot!

--- In CH250HondaElite@ yahoogroups. com, in transit <fpgaman_2000@ ...> wrote:
>
> R1 is a current limit resistor located next to D1 in the lower left crnr.  you probably also blew D1.  i'll pull out a salvage unit i have and get you the resistance value.  might take me a couple days, so be patient.
>  
>
>
> --- On Fri, 11/20/09, Kelly <bikedude@.. .> wrote:
>
>
> From: Kelly <bikedude@.. .>
> Subject: [CH250HondaElite] 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
> To: CH250HondaElite@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 6:44 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad regulator.
>
> Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit. I burned out what I think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD. It is labeled R1 on the board. Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio Shack and solder it in. Does anyone know where I could get this information. If I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off of that.
>
> thanks
>



#18016 From: "Kelly" <bikedude@...>
Date: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:16 am
Subject: Re: 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
bikedude0
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Excellent, thanks.  R1 was the only one visibly blown, I mean there was nothing
left of it, just soot!

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, in transit <fpgaman_2000@...> wrote:
>
> R1 is a current limit resistor located next to D1 in the lower left crnr. 
you probably also blew D1.  i'll pull out a salvage unit i have and get you the
resistance value.  might take me a couple days, so be patient.
>  
>
>
> --- On Fri, 11/20/09, Kelly <bikedude@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Kelly <bikedude@...>
> Subject: [CH250HondaElite] 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
> To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 6:44 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical
problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad
regulator.
>
> Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit. I burned out what I
think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD. It is labeled R1 on the
board. Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can
repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio
Shack and solder it in. Does anyone know where I could get this information. If
I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off of
that.
>
> thanks
>

#18015 From: in transit <fpgaman_2000@...>
Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
fpgaman_2000
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
R1 is a current limit resistor located next to D1 in the lower left crnr.  you probably also blew D1.  i'll pull out a salvage unit i have and get you the resistance value.  might take me a couple days, so be patient.
 


--- On Fri, 11/20/09, Kelly <bikedude@...> wrote:

From: Kelly <bikedude@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 6:44 PM

 
I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad regulator.

Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit. I burned out what I think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD. It is labeled R1 on the board. Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio Shack and solder it in. Does anyone know where I could get this information. If I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off of that.

thanks



#18014 From: "Kelly" <bikedude@...>
Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:44 am
Subject: 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
bikedude0
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical
problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad
regulator.

Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit.  I burned out what I
think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD.  It is labeled R1 on
the board.  Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can
repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio
Shack and solder it in.  Does anyone know where I could get this information. 
If I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off
of that.

thanks

#18013 From: bryant chandler <bluboy4_us@...>
Date: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:07 pm
Subject: Re: Manual Petcock option
bluboy4_us
Offline Offline
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The problem with putting a manual petcock on  one of these bikes is the fact that it's located underneath a body part. in order to maually turn off fuel flow to the carb, one would either have to remove the rear body cover before doing so or ride around without it. The OEM petcock is still available and you can get vacuum line from any dealer or bike mechanic.Try the vacuum line replacement first if it doesn't pass the inspection that Pete suggested. If you're still having a problem, replace the petcock. Still a problem? Rebuild the vacuum chamber.
 
choose love,
bryant



From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, November 19, 2009 11:03:28 AM
Subject: Re: [CH250HondaElite] Manual Petcock option

 

Yes it will work. I replaced a malfunctioning original manual petcock on an old motorcycle with a generic 'fuel valve' found at an auto parts store, and positioned it in a easier to reach spot on the bike frame. Yes it can be done.
I'm wondering why  in 20+ years experence with CH250's, I've never had a problem with petcocks. Theres nothing to go wrong, except the fuel valve part can get clogged with dirt. 
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250
--- On Thu, 11/19/09, Seekyrr <seekyrr@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Seekyrr <seekyrr@gmail. com>
Subject: Re: [CH250HondaElite] Manual Petcock option
To: CH250HondaElite@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 3:45 PM

 
I'm not talking about removing the petcock, merely replacing it with a manual vrs automatic option.

Im asking in theory, would it work if placed in a spot that could be turned to off when bike was off?

On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 10:25 AM, Pete, in Tacoma WA <peder_y2k@yahoo. com> wrote:
 
The vacuum petcock is located in a hard to reach place. If you install a manual petcock in its place, how will you reach it to turn it on and off? The petcock is a real necessity to turn off to keep fuel from draining out of the tank when/if a problem shows up. Don't want a two gallon deposit of gasoline on the garage floor that has an automatic furnace or anything automatic electric for that matter.
 
Fire is the enemy, and without a good working petcock, the perfect storm is gaining strength to happen.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250

--- On Thu, 11/19/09, snowcrash007 <seekyrr@gmail. com> wrote:

From: snowcrash007 <seekyrr@gmail. com>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] Manual Petcock option
To: CH250HondaElite@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 3:09 PM


 
I got this advice from somone and wanted your thoughts. My petcock may need replacing, and this is my 2nd one. I was thinking of a manual petcock and this was the advice I got....worth doing?

One thing you might consider is replacing the vaccuum operated petcocks with a on/off/reserve manual petcock. You need to plug off the vaccuum line at the intake manifold and then just leave the petcock in the reserve position as you already have a fuel gauge. Many of the Honda motocycles use the items which will screw directly on. That way you dont mess around with the vaccuum petcocks.

Crash






#18012 From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:06 pm
Subject: Re: Re: I am a lazy ass and I need an easy way out.
peder_y2k
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hose clamp on vacuum line is required in some instances such as the carb mountings, but smaller hoses anywhere will benefit from not vibrating and fall off. Clamp = OK. I make sure all the hoses are clamped on my machines. Also check that smaller hoses are snug fit, not loose fit. Sometimes a small hose can just have the end cut off  (1/2in.) to refresh the connect fitment. Replace any hose that feels squishy or really hard that shows cracking, or a hose that rubs off on your hands making black marks.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250

--- On Thu, 11/19/09, wanna_beco <ycoarick@...> wrote:

From: wanna_beco <ycoarick@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] Re: I am a lazy ass and I need an easy way out.
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 4:33 PM

 

 
> The starting problem is likely an internal carburetor issue, such as dirt or gum restricting flow. An air leak at the air supply tubes can also cause a disruption of the fuel mix. Check all the air routing tubes for proper fitment
>
> Since the engine runs, and you are a self-admitted lazy type, add some SEAFOAM to the fuel tank, about 3-4 oz. for a full tank, and run it out. The additive will clean out internal carb deposits, but it is not a miracle cure for mechanical problems

OKAY... I am getting seafoam today.. Pete you sound like the man I need to talk to... wish TACOMA was a suburb of phoenix :o)

Can or Should you put a hose clamp on a vacuum line?



#18011 From: "wanna_beco" <ycoarick@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:33 pm
Subject: Re: I am a lazy ass and I need an easy way out.
wanna_beco
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
 
> The starting problem is likely an internal carburetor issue, such as dirt or
gum restricting flow. An air leak at the air supply tubes can also cause a
disruption of the fuel mix. Check all the air routing tubes for proper fitment
>
> Since the engine runs, and you are a self-admitted lazy type, add some SEAFOAM
to the fuel tank, about 3-4 oz. for a full tank, and run it out. The additive
will clean out internal carb deposits, but it is not a miracle cure for
mechanical problems


OKAY... I am getting seafoam today.. Pete you sound like the man I need to talk
to... wish TACOMA was a suburb of phoenix :o)

Can or Should you put a hose clamp on a vacuum line?

#18010 From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:03 pm
Subject: Re: Manual Petcock option
peder_y2k
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Yes it will work. I replaced a malfunctioning original manual petcock on an old motorcycle with a generic 'fuel valve' found at an auto parts store, and positioned it in a easier to reach spot on the bike frame. Yes it can be done.
I'm wondering why  in 20+ years experence with CH250's, I've never had a problem with petcocks. Theres nothing to go wrong, except the fuel valve part can get clogged with dirt. 
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250
--- On Thu, 11/19/09, Seekyrr <seekyrr@...> wrote:

From: Seekyrr <seekyrr@...>
Subject: Re: [CH250HondaElite] Manual Petcock option
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 3:45 PM

 
I'm not talking about removing the petcock, merely replacing it with a manual vrs automatic option.

Im asking in theory, would it work if placed in a spot that could be turned to off when bike was off?

On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 10:25 AM, Pete, in Tacoma WA <peder_y2k@yahoo. com> wrote:
 
The vacuum petcock is located in a hard to reach place. If you install a manual petcock in its place, how will you reach it to turn it on and off? The petcock is a real necessity to turn off to keep fuel from draining out of the tank when/if a problem shows up. Don't want a two gallon deposit of gasoline on the garage floor that has an automatic furnace or anything automatic electric for that matter.
 
Fire is the enemy, and without a good working petcock, the perfect storm is gaining strength to happen.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250

--- On Thu, 11/19/09, snowcrash007 <seekyrr@gmail. com> wrote:

From: snowcrash007 <seekyrr@gmail. com>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] Manual Petcock option
To: CH250HondaElite@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 3:09 PM


 
I got this advice from somone and wanted your thoughts. My petcock may need replacing, and this is my 2nd one. I was thinking of a manual petcock and this was the advice I got....worth doing?

One thing you might consider is replacing the vaccuum operated petcocks with a on/off/reserve manual petcock. You need to plug off the vaccuum line at the intake manifold and then just leave the petcock in the reserve position as you already have a fuel gauge. Many of the Honda motocycles use the items which will screw directly on. That way you dont mess around with the vaccuum petcocks.

Crash





#18009 From: Seekyrr <seekyrr@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:45 pm
Subject: Re: Manual Petcock option
snowcrash007
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I'm not talking about removing the petcock, merely replacing it with a manual vrs automatic option.

Im asking in theory, would it work if placed in a spot that could be turned to off when bike was off?

On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 10:25 AM, Pete, in Tacoma WA <peder_y2k@...> wrote:
 

The vacuum petcock is located in a hard to reach place. If you install a manual petcock in its place, how will you reach it to turn it on and off? The petcock is a real necessity to turn off to keep fuel from draining out of the tank when/if a problem shows up. Don't want a two gallon deposit of gasoline on the garage floor that has an automatic furnace or anything automatic electric for that matter.
 
Fire is the enemy, and without a good working petcock, the perfect storm is gaining strength to happen.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250

--- On Thu, 11/19/09, snowcrash007 <seekyrr@...> wrote:

From: snowcrash007 <seekyrr@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] Manual Petcock option
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 3:09 PM


 
I got this advice from somone and wanted your thoughts. My petcock may need replacing, and this is my 2nd one. I was thinking of a manual petcock and this was the advice I got....worth doing?

One thing you might consider is replacing the vaccuum operated petcocks with a on/off/reserve manual petcock. You need to plug off the vaccuum line at the intake manifold and then just leave the petcock in the reserve position as you already have a fuel gauge. Many of the Honda motocycles use the items which will screw directly on. That way you dont mess around with the vaccuum petcocks.

Crash




#18008 From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:25 pm
Subject: Re: Manual Petcock option
peder_y2k
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
The vacuum petcock is located in a hard to reach place. If you install a manual petcock in its place, how will you reach it to turn it on and off? The petcock is a real necessity to turn off to keep fuel from draining out of the tank when/if a problem shows up. Don't want a two gallon deposit of gasoline on the garage floor that has an automatic furnace or anything automatic electric for that matter.
 
Fire is the enemy, and without a good working petcock, the perfect storm is gaining strength to happen.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250

--- On Thu, 11/19/09, snowcrash007 <seekyrr@...> wrote:

From: snowcrash007 <seekyrr@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] Manual Petcock option
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 3:09 PM

 
I got this advice from somone and wanted your thoughts. My petcock may need replacing, and this is my 2nd one. I was thinking of a manual petcock and this was the advice I got....worth doing?

One thing you might consider is replacing the vaccuum operated petcocks with a on/off/reserve manual petcock. You need to plug off the vaccuum line at the intake manifold and then just leave the petcock in the reserve position as you already have a fuel gauge. Many of the Honda motocycles use the items which will screw directly on. That way you dont mess around with the vaccuum petcocks.

Crash



#18007 From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:15 pm
Subject: Re: I am a lazy ass and I need an easy way out.
peder_y2k
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Your diagnosis is not correct. Continued cranking ( 10 seconds ) will create enough vacuum to fill the carb if the vacuum system is not breached with a leak (like holding the throttle open when cranking).
 
The starting problem is likely an internal carburetor issue, such as dirt or gum restricting flow. An air leak at the air supply tubes can also cause a disruption of the fuel mix. Check all the air routing tubes for proper fitment
Since the engine runs, and you are a self-admitted lazy type, add some SEAFOAM to the fuel tank, about 3-4 oz. for a full tank, and run it out. The additive will clean out internal carb deposits, but it is not a miracle cure for mechanical problems
Don't be mislead by suggestions that the 'bystarter' is bad, because it does not function for starting. It only works after the engine has started and warms up.
 
-Pete, in Tacoma WA
'89 & 85/6 CH250
 
 
--- On Thu, 11/19/09, wanna_beco <ycoarick@...> wrote:

From: wanna_beco <ycoarick@...>
Subject: [CH250HondaElite] I am a lazy ass and I need an easy way out.
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 7:53 AM

 
I am new and I am not really a mechanic, in fact, I admire mechanics cuz this stuff is so dang hard.

I have an 87

As I understand it, we have a little vacuum operated fuel door (petcock) on our bikes. when the bike starts it creates a vacuum and allows the door (diaphram?) to open. Then fuel starts to flow freely into the carb and it will continue to run. My problem is bike isn't starting right away and vacuum is not being created long enough for door to stay open.

My solution. drill that sucker and put a regular petcock in (perhaps inline or something.. only has to open and close)then the gas would flow until i closed the petcock.

Anyone done this?? am I way off base? HHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEE LLLLLLLLLLLPPPPP P plleeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeaaaaaasee! !



#18006 From: "snowcrash007" <seekyrr@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:09 pm
Subject: Manual Petcock option
snowcrash007
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I got this advice from somone and wanted your thoughts.  My petcock may need
replacing, and this is my 2nd one.  I was thinking of a manual petcock and this
was the advice I got....worth doing?

One thing you might consider is replacing the vaccuum operated petcocks with a
on/off/reserve manual petcock. You need to plug off the vaccuum line at the
intake manifold and then just leave the petcock in the reserve position as you
already have a fuel gauge. Many of the Honda motocycles use the items which will
screw directly on. That way you dont mess around with the vaccuum petcocks.

Crash

#18005 From: "slickvicscooter" <slickvic@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 12:50 pm
Subject: Re: I am a lazy ass and I need an easy way out.
slickvicscooter
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Your diagnosis is incorrect. As long as you have your thumb on the starter
button and the engine is turning over, it is producing vacuum which will allow
fuel flow. Do NOT twist the throttle open while starting the scooter as this
will reduce vacuum to the petcock.

If you have a malfunctioning petcock, you should replace it with the correct one
for our scooters.  You can find these on eBay for a reasonable price.  That said
if you want to modify your scoot and put motorcycle parts on it, then knock
yourself out.  :)


--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, "wanna_beco" <ycoarick@...> wrote:
  My problem is bike isn't starting right away and vacuum is not being created
long enough for door to stay open.
>
> My solution. drill that sucker and put a regular petcock in (perhaps inline or
something.. only has to open and close)then the gas would flow until i closed
the petcock.
>

#18004 From: "wanna_beco" <ycoarick@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:53 am
Subject: I am a lazy ass and I need an easy way out.
wanna_beco
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I am new and I am not really a mechanic, in fact, I admire mechanics cuz this
stuff is so dang hard.

I have an 87

As I understand it, we have a little vacuum operated fuel door (petcock) on our
bikes. when the bike starts it creates a vacuum and allows the door (diaphram?)
to open. Then fuel starts to flow freely into the carb and it will continue to
run. My problem is bike isn't starting right away and vacuum is not being
created long enough for door to stay open.

My solution. drill that sucker and put a regular petcock in (perhaps inline or
something.. only has to open and close)then the gas would flow until i closed
the petcock.

Anyone done this?? am I way off base? HHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPP
plleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaasee!!

#18003 From: "Kelly" <bikedude@...>
Date: Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:55 am
Subject: Re: Strange Elictrical Problem Update ANSWER
bikedude0
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I seem to have isolated my electrical problem down to two main faults. First was
a bad regulator.  Second, the red wire going to the main fuse looked in pretty
bad shape.  The copper strands were brittle and black.  The fuse which had been
fried long ago was removed and the two wires were attached to a single pole of
the holder, hence bypassing the fuse altogether.  I can only imagine that this
was someones idea of a fix probably resulting from a faulty regulator.  I was
not getting any return voltage back to the battery because of the bad wire, and
only partial voltage up to the instruments and lights with the ignition on.  I
spliced in two new wires from the red and green wires just behind the regulator
plug and ran them straight to the battery terminals, thus bypassing the original
wiring.  I installed a new regulator and fired it up.  Now I am getting a
consistent 14v back to the battery.  Now I probably need to isolate the faulty
wire and replace it, although everything seems to be functioning now that the
load has been lessened on the bad wire.  Does anyone know the point of origin of
the wires going to the main fuse?  Also, As I mentioned earlier I seemed to have
fried the speedometer LCD when running unregulated voltage through the system. 
Is there any internal fuse in the instrument cluster for the speedo that can be
replaced or am I SOL?  If not, where can I get a replacement LCD?

#18002 From: "drfusion8" <zozman50@...>
Date: Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:17 pm
Subject: Re: Strange Elictrical Problem Update ANSWER
drfusion8
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I just reviewed what was happening with your electrical problems. Unregulated
voltage from the stator is 18.2 volts. You will never get 24 volts unregulated.
The most likely suspect for your electrical problems is the voltage regulator.
First thing, make sure your battery is good. I like to do a load test to see
really how good the battery is. Next,run a voltmeter past the terminals of your
battery with the scoot off. The battery should read 13.2 volts if perfect. Never
below 12.3 volts. With the scooter running and the headlight on, throttling the
scoot to 2800 rpm should give you 14.0-15.0 regulated volts at the battery.
Anything higher points to a malfunctioning rectifier or regulator. If all these
check out then check the ignition switch for fault as it will ground when bad.
Bottom line: I have found that there  are only five things which replicate your
issues: dead battery, weak cell battery, dead stator, faulty regulator, open
circuit ignition switch.

Randy Pozzi

#18001 From: "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
Date: Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:31 pm
Subject: Re: Strange Elictrical Problem Update
peder_y2k
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Ooops. With the regulator disconnected, the rectifier was also disconnected. that resulted in a no control of alternator voltage and is free to rise way above the tolerance of the bulbs and speedo.
 

Obviously the alternator is working, but the regulator could be toast.
 
-Pete


From: Merchison Burke <merchison@...>
Subject: Re: [CH250HondaElite] Strange Elictrical Problem Update
To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 13, 2009, 4:46 AM

 
Maybe a bad connector somewhere in the chain.

Kelly wrote:
> Did some more testing on the charging system. I disconnected the regulator and I got around 18v to the headlight, front signals. I also tested with the black wire disconnected from the plug which sent about 24v to the above mentioned items. The headlight was disconnected at this time, but it blew out both front signals, all the instrument lights and I'm afraid the LCD Speedo. None of the rear lights were effected and still no charge to the Battery at any time. This tells me the alternator is working but for some reason not charging the battery. Does that mean the regulator is the culprit?
>
>
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


#18000 From: Merchison Burke <merchison@...>
Date: Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:46 am
Subject: Re: Strange Elictrical Problem Update
merchison
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Maybe a bad connector somewhere in the chain.

Kelly wrote:
> Did some more testing on the charging system.  I disconnected the regulator
and I got around 18v to the headlight, front signals.  I also tested with the
black wire disconnected from the plug which sent about 24v to the above
mentioned items.  The headlight was disconnected at this time, but it blew out
both front signals, all the instrument lights and I'm afraid the LCD Speedo. 
None of the rear lights were effected and still no charge to the Battery at any
time. This tells me the alternator is working but for some reason not charging
the battery.  Does that mean the regulator is the culprit?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

#17999 From: "Kelly" <bikedude@...>
Date: Fri Nov 13, 2009 3:14 am
Subject: Strange Elictrical Problem Update
bikedude0
Offline Offline
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Did some more testing on the charging system.  I disconnected the regulator and
I got around 18v to the headlight, front signals.  I also tested with the black
wire disconnected from the plug which sent about 24v to the above mentioned
items.  The headlight was disconnected at this time, but it blew out both front
signals, all the instrument lights and I'm afraid the LCD Speedo.  None of the
rear lights were effected and still no charge to the Battery at any time. This
tells me the alternator is working but for some reason not charging the battery.
Does that mean the regulator is the culprit?

#17998 From: joe black <joeblackakareaper@...>
Date: Thu Nov 12, 2009 4:06 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Rebuild
bblazoff
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Have you solved your parts problem ?
 
TheReaper!

On Thu, Nov 12, 2009 at 2:25 AM, Rick <valkstr@...> wrote:
 

TheReaper,

I live in Juneau, Alaska

Rick

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, joe black <joeblackakareaper@...> wrote:
>
> Rick , what city and state do you live in ?
>
> TheReaper!
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 10:31 PM, Rick <valkstr@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I'm rebuilding my '88 Elite 250 engine with some parts on ebay and wondered
> > if anyone had used these crankshaft and cylinder kits from China via Sam
> > Vtech. Appreciate info on this company and products. Price is right at $315
> > for both kits compared to over $900 via Honda, if they have them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-HONDA-CH250-CN250-CF250-cylinder-Pistons_W0QQitemZ280411777657QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4149d82a79
> >
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280418646677&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> >
> >
> >
>



#17997 From: "Rick" <valkstr@...>
Date: Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:25 am
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild
richardwery
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
TheReaper,

I live in Juneau, Alaska

Rick

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, joe black <joeblackakareaper@...> wrote:
>
> Rick , what city and state do you live in ?
>
> TheReaper!
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 10:31 PM, Rick <valkstr@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I'm rebuilding my '88 Elite 250 engine with some parts on ebay and wondered
> > if anyone had used these crankshaft and cylinder kits from China via Sam
> > Vtech. Appreciate info on this company and products. Price is right at $315
> > for both kits compared to over $900 via Honda, if they have them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-HONDA-CH250-CN250-CF250-cylinder-Pistons_W0QQ\
itemZ280411777657QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4149d\
82a79
> >
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280418646677&ssPag\
eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> >
> >
> >
>

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