hi guys,

i am new to scooters and my brakes are squeaking so it's time for some work. 
hard to find mechanic who works on ch250s (plus something i can afford), so i'd
like to try myself.

i have an 85 and looked at the 86 service manual and am getting the parts now,
is there a difference between pads and shoes?  any recommended brands/types?

any tips or advice?  didn't see any tech tips for brakes, but i will be using
rear wheel removal for dummies.  i hope i just have to pop some new shoes and
springs in there drum itself is ok.  some articles online say to use a lot of
brake solvent before putting it all back together, what you think?

really appreciate the help!

Thanks for the info.

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, "Pete, in Tacoma WA" <peder_y2k@...>
wrote:
>
> It will be OK for testing, but would not trust it for full operation as the
timing advance control curve is likely to be different enough that it could make
a difference...such as burned valves and melted piston.
>  
> -Pete, in Tacoma WA
> '89 & 85/6 CH250
>
> --- On Tue, 11/24/09, bobwenten <bobwenten@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: bobwenten <bobwenten@...>
> Subject: [CH250HondaElite] CDI unit equivalant
> To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009, 12:45 AM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> Is the CDI unit from a 85-87 CH250 the same as a CDI unit from a 85-87 CH150?
The connections look the same and the boxes look the same. Is there any risk
involved in swapping them? I'm trying to locate an intermittent no spark
situation, and I think it is centered at the CDI.
>

Is the CDI unit from a 85-87 CH250 the same as a CDI unit from a 85-87 CH150?
The connections look the same and the boxes look the same. Is there any risk
involved in swapping them?  I'm trying to locate an intermittent no spark
situation, and I think it is centered at the CDI.

The value of a resistor is determined by it's color code.  The link below is a
website to help calculate the value in ohm's.

http://samengstrom.com/nxl/36604_band_resistor_color_code_page.en.html

If the link isn't clickable just copy and paste into your browser.

Good Luck!

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, "Kelly" <bikedude@...> wrote:
>
> I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical
problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad
regulator.
>
> Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit.  I burned out what I
think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD.  It is labeled R1 on
the board.  Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can
repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio
Shack and solder it in.  Does anyone know where I could get this information. 
If I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off
of that.
>
> thanks
>

Excellent, thanks.  R1 was the only one visibly blown, I mean there was nothing
left of it, just soot!

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, in transit <fpgaman_2000@...> wrote:
>
> R1 is a current limit resistor located next to D1 in the lower left crnr. 
you probably also blew D1.  i'll pull out a salvage unit i have and get you the
resistance value.  might take me a couple days, so be patient.
>  
>
>
> --- On Fri, 11/20/09, Kelly <bikedude@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Kelly <bikedude@...>
> Subject: [CH250HondaElite] 1985 Digital Speedometer LCD repair
> To: CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 6:44 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical
problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad
regulator.
>
> Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit. I burned out what I
think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD. It is labeled R1 on the
board. Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can
repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio
Shack and solder it in. Does anyone know where I could get this information. If
I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off of
that.
>
> thanks
>

I finally got my Elite 250 running and have corrected all the electrical
problems which included a burnt ground wire inside the main harness and a bad
regulator.

Now my only problem is the digital speedometer LCD unit.  I burned out what I
think is a resistor on the circuit board behind the LCD.  It is labeled R1 on
the board.  Anyway, I am thinking this may be all that's wrong with it and I can
repair it if I can figure out the specs of the resistor and get one at Radio
Shack and solder it in.  Does anyone know where I could get this information. 
If I could get a hold of another bad LCD I could probably take the resistor off
of that.

thanks

 
> The starting problem is likely an internal carburetor issue, such as dirt or
gum restricting flow. An air leak at the air supply tubes can also cause a
disruption of the fuel mix. Check all the air routing tubes for proper fitment
>
> Since the engine runs, and you are a self-admitted lazy type, add some SEAFOAM
to the fuel tank, about 3-4 oz. for a full tank, and run it out. The additive
will clean out internal carb deposits, but it is not a miracle cure for
mechanical problems


OKAY... I am getting seafoam today.. Pete you sound like the man I need to talk
to... wish TACOMA was a suburb of phoenix :o)

Can or Should you put a hose clamp on a vacuum line?

I got this advice from somone and wanted your thoughts.  My petcock may need
replacing, and this is my 2nd one.  I was thinking of a manual petcock and this
was the advice I got....worth doing?

One thing you might consider is replacing the vaccuum operated petcocks with a
on/off/reserve manual petcock. You need to plug off the vaccuum line at the
intake manifold and then just leave the petcock in the reserve position as you
already have a fuel gauge. Many of the Honda motocycles use the items which will
screw directly on. That way you dont mess around with the vaccuum petcocks.

Crash

Your diagnosis is incorrect. As long as you have your thumb on the starter
button and the engine is turning over, it is producing vacuum which will allow
fuel flow. Do NOT twist the throttle open while starting the scooter as this
will reduce vacuum to the petcock.

If you have a malfunctioning petcock, you should replace it with the correct one
for our scooters.  You can find these on eBay for a reasonable price.  That said
if you want to modify your scoot and put motorcycle parts on it, then knock
yourself out.  :)


--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, "wanna_beco" <ycoarick@...> wrote:
  My problem is bike isn't starting right away and vacuum is not being created
long enough for door to stay open.
>
> My solution. drill that sucker and put a regular petcock in (perhaps inline or
something.. only has to open and close)then the gas would flow until i closed
the petcock.
>

I am new and I am not really a mechanic, in fact, I admire mechanics cuz this
stuff is so dang hard.

I have an 87

As I understand it, we have a little vacuum operated fuel door (petcock) on our
bikes. when the bike starts it creates a vacuum and allows the door (diaphram?)
to open. Then fuel starts to flow freely into the carb and it will continue to
run. My problem is bike isn't starting right away and vacuum is not being
created long enough for door to stay open.

My solution. drill that sucker and put a regular petcock in (perhaps inline or
something.. only has to open and close)then the gas would flow until i closed
the petcock.

Anyone done this?? am I way off base? HHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPP
plleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaasee!!

I seem to have isolated my electrical problem down to two main faults. First was
a bad regulator.  Second, the red wire going to the main fuse looked in pretty
bad shape.  The copper strands were brittle and black.  The fuse which had been
fried long ago was removed and the two wires were attached to a single pole of
the holder, hence bypassing the fuse altogether.  I can only imagine that this
was someones idea of a fix probably resulting from a faulty regulator.  I was
not getting any return voltage back to the battery because of the bad wire, and
only partial voltage up to the instruments and lights with the ignition on.  I
spliced in two new wires from the red and green wires just behind the regulator
plug and ran them straight to the battery terminals, thus bypassing the original
wiring.  I installed a new regulator and fired it up.  Now I am getting a
consistent 14v back to the battery.  Now I probably need to isolate the faulty
wire and replace it, although everything seems to be functioning now that the
load has been lessened on the bad wire.  Does anyone know the point of origin of
the wires going to the main fuse?  Also, As I mentioned earlier I seemed to have
fried the speedometer LCD when running unregulated voltage through the system. 
Is there any internal fuse in the instrument cluster for the speedo that can be
replaced or am I SOL?  If not, where can I get a replacement LCD?

I just reviewed what was happening with your electrical problems. Unregulated
voltage from the stator is 18.2 volts. You will never get 24 volts unregulated.
The most likely suspect for your electrical problems is the voltage regulator.
First thing, make sure your battery is good. I like to do a load test to see
really how good the battery is. Next,run a voltmeter past the terminals of your
battery with the scoot off. The battery should read 13.2 volts if perfect. Never
below 12.3 volts. With the scooter running and the headlight on, throttling the
scoot to 2800 rpm should give you 14.0-15.0 regulated volts at the battery.
Anything higher points to a malfunctioning rectifier or regulator. If all these
check out then check the ignition switch for fault as it will ground when bad.
Bottom line: I have found that there  are only five things which replicate your
issues: dead battery, weak cell battery, dead stator, faulty regulator, open
circuit ignition switch.

Randy Pozzi

Maybe a bad connector somewhere in the chain.

Kelly wrote:
> Did some more testing on the charging system.  I disconnected the regulator
and I got around 18v to the headlight, front signals.  I also tested with the
black wire disconnected from the plug which sent about 24v to the above
mentioned items.  The headlight was disconnected at this time, but it blew out
both front signals, all the instrument lights and I'm afraid the LCD Speedo. 
None of the rear lights were effected and still no charge to the Battery at any
time. This tells me the alternator is working but for some reason not charging
the battery.  Does that mean the regulator is the culprit?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Did some more testing on the charging system.  I disconnected the regulator and
I got around 18v to the headlight, front signals.  I also tested with the black
wire disconnected from the plug which sent about 24v to the above mentioned
items.  The headlight was disconnected at this time, but it blew out both front
signals, all the instrument lights and I'm afraid the LCD Speedo.  None of the
rear lights were effected and still no charge to the Battery at any time. This
tells me the alternator is working but for some reason not charging the battery.
Does that mean the regulator is the culprit?

TheReaper,

I live in Juneau, Alaska

Rick

--- In CH250HondaElite@yahoogroups.com, joe black <joeblackakareaper@...> wrote:
>
> Rick , what city and state do you live in ?
>
> TheReaper!
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 10:31 PM, Rick <valkstr@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I'm rebuilding my '88 Elite 250 engine with some parts on ebay and wondered
> > if anyone had used these crankshaft and cylinder kits from China via Sam
> > Vtech. Appreciate info on this company and products. Price is right at $315
> > for both kits compared to over $900 via Honda, if they have them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-HONDA-CH250-CN250-CF250-cylinder-Pistons_W0QQ\
itemZ280411777657QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4149d\
82a79
> >
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280418646677&ssPag\
eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> >
> >
> >
>