Just got my first SK
Cracked it open for the first time...

As I was putting it back together I think I screwed the keypad circuit board in
to tight. A few of the keys wouldn't work and when I had to open it up again the
board was STUCK on the central plastic cylinder. I had screwed into it hard
enough to warp it slightly and now it was slightly to wide. I ended up just
having to use some force but I cracked the board!! the crack is as the top near
the middle and runs through 10 of these little circuit lines!
My question is

Can I fix this? (I'm assuming half of the keys won't work now but I haven't put
it back together)
What do I do!??

Thanks to whoever replies!!!
and I don't know very much about electronics so I'm probably not using the
correct terms for these things.

Just look carefully at the board and make a stocktake of any broken tracks in
the circuit board you can see. Then get a soldering iron and simply bridge each
broken copper track with some solder. It sounds like you broke the tracks that
are a part of the keyboard matrix - which basically means it should be easy to
fix. If you still have problems, see if you can take a good sharp closeup photo
of the broken area on the board, both sides if possible,  and upload it here
into the file section and we could see it. Also check to see if any of the wide
white ribbon cables that connect to the board haven't been broken at their
solder points - these cables are the key/button connectors to the board.

Cheers. Graham



--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "youwontfindme" <youwontfindme@...> wrote:
>
> Just got my first SK
> Cracked it open for the first time...
>
> As I was putting it back together I think I screwed the keypad circuit board
in to tight. A few of the keys wouldn't work and when I had to open it up again
the board was STUCK on the central plastic cylinder. I had screwed into it hard
enough to warp it slightly and now it was slightly to wide. I ended up just
having to use some force but I cracked the board!! the crack is as the top near
the middle and runs through 10 of these little circuit lines!
> My question is
>
> Can I fix this? (I'm assuming half of the keys won't work now but I haven't
put it back together)
> What do I do!??
>
> Thanks to whoever replies!!!
> and I don't know very much about electronics so I'm probably not using the
correct terms for these things.
>

anyone here attempt these mods on the SK-1 yet?

I'm curious!?

Not as such on the SK-1 but it will work exactly the same. The SK-1 will have
the same type of CV envelope lines as the SK-8, obviously on a different part of
its board though. The SK-1 service manual shows the main processor chip pin
outs, and which ones are the "envelope outs" as it labels them. Get the service
manual for it first and identify them. Also see a photo of the SK-1 board, with
the CV outs for each of the 4 polyphony voices labeled. It's in the FILES
section of this site, in the "Slo-AD mod" folder. It is these points that you do
the Slo-AD mod to. You should be now able to adapt the SK8 Slo-AD mod
instructions to it.



--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "RESIDENT EVIL" <sinobyte@...> wrote:
>
> anyone here attempt these mods on the SK-1 yet?
>
> I'm curious!?
>

Thanks for replying

I would solder them all back but they are too close together. The solder would
drip onto more than one circuit at once. there's about 10 of them all within an
inch or so.

--- On Wed, 7/8/09, gmeredith1 <gmeredith1@...> wrote:

From: gmeredith1 <gmeredith1@...>
Subject: [CasioSK] Re: my sk5 keyboard dilemma
To: CasioSK@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, July 8, 2009, 10:43 PM

















       Just look carefully at the board and make a stocktake of any broken tracks
in the circuit board you can see. Then get a soldering iron and simply bridge
each broken copper track with some solder. It sounds like you broke the tracks
that are a part of the keyboard matrix - which basically means it should be easy
to fix. If you still have problems, see if you can take a good sharp closeup
photo of the broken area on the board, both sides if possible,  and upload it
here into the file section and we could see it. Also check to see if any of the
wide white ribbon cables that connect to the board haven't been broken at their
solder points - these cables are the key/button connectors to the board.



Cheers. Graham



--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups .com, "youwontfindme" <youwontfindme@ ...> wrote:

>

> Just got my first SK

> Cracked it open for the first time...

>

> As I was putting it back together I think I screwed the keypad circuit board
in to tight. A few of the keys wouldn't work and when I had to open it up again
the board was STUCK on the central plastic cylinder. I had screwed into it hard
enough to warp it slightly and now it was slightly to wide. I ended up just
having to use some force but I cracked the board!! the crack is as the top near
the middle and runs through 10 of these little circuit lines!

> My question is

>

> Can I fix this? (I'm assuming half of the keys won't work now but I haven't
put it back together)

> What do I do!??

>

> Thanks to whoever replies!!!

> and I don't know very much about electronics so I'm probably not using the
correct terms for these things.

>





























       __________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sinne- i'm always looking for simple new circuits, do you have a schematic of
your salen-key filter?

I'm also having some trouble with the simple VCF. There is a bit of dry signal
bleeding in, and the wet signal sounds a bit muddy. But i haven't given up yet.

-justin

--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "sinne.morgen" <sinne.morgen@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> first I like to thank you for your answer, I already read it a week ago or so,
just were too busy to write back.
>
> I didnt actually find out where my mistake was. Nevertheless I did manage to
build a simple lowpass cutoff filter with resonance control (a simple Sallen-Key
Filter...). It actually works great and has even less parts than the "Simple
VCF", allthough I dont know how to change it to a version with a control
voltage. Doesnt matter to me, thats all I need right now.
>
> Greetings from Germany
>
> Sinne
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "gmeredith1" <gmeredith1@> wrote:
> >
> > Which version of the circuit board did you make? The upper, generic one, or
the lower, specially adapted one for the Casio SK?
> >
> > If you're using the bottom one, take note that the IC pins 1, 5 and 8 are
NOT connected to the board - bend their pins out horizontally before you put the
IC in the board - Or better yet, always use an IC socket soldered to the board
instead of the IC - then you can just plug it in. In this case make sure pins 1,
5 and 8 of the socket are not connected but bent out horizontally.
> >
> > The bottom circuit is a little bit cramped and its easy to make a mistake. I
made it that small so it could be fitted inside the SK easily.
> >
> > Why not try making the generic circuit first? Then at least you can
troubleshoot the 2nd circuit with a working one. Just print out the generic
track board picture on a piece of paper - try and scale it on the printer so
that it prints out at actual size to the components. Now glue the printout to a
thin piece of cardboard, like from a cereal packet. Punch holes with a needle
where there are holes marked on the track.
> >
> > Thread your component legs through the holes, and bend the legs on the other
side in the shape of the tracks, joining them up with some scrap wire from
cutoffs from components and insulated wire where neccesary. Mount a socket in
the cardboard and solder the wires to join up the socket legs to the components.
> >
> > It's as easy as that - I do that sort of thing lots and its really easy. Get
that one working, and treat it like an external effects box - put some input and
output jacks on it so you can plug anything into it, and so test it. Plug a lead
into the output jack of the SK and the other end into the filter input, and its
output into an amplifier. Keep the SK volume down low otherwise it will easily
overload the generic filter and cause distortion - that's why I added extra
components to the specific SK circuit to address that issue.
> >
> > Cheers, graham
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "sinne.morgen" <sinne.morgen@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I'm trying to build the "Simple VCF" like the tutorial in the
filessection. First I used a AD822 opAmp; had one leftover with only one side
working (normally it is a double opamp). Sounded quite messy... My second try
with an NE5334AN didnt work either.
> > >
> > > I put the VCF right before the Volume Dial and I used mostly film caps.
> > > Am I missing something here (like changing some resistors to another
avlue) or just not able to solder properly?
> > >
> > >
> > > Regards
> > > Sinne
> > >
> >
>

Did you build the version adapted to the SK, or just the generic circuit? Are
you using it on an SK, or a standalone unit for anything?

If you built the generic one, take a look at the SK adapted circuit board I
drew, on the page further down in the instructions. The CV input has been
connected to a 100k trimpot which then goes to a +5V power source. I did this
because I found that it allows more "open filter" range than just the internal
100k frequency pot allowed and you get a higher cutoff frequency - it fixes the
"muddy" sound a lot that you mentioned (caused by not enough "open filter" range
voltage being supplied internally).

This is used by turning the 100k trimpot to your liking while having the cutoff
pot fully open, to get the cutoff range you desire from the frequency cutoff
100k pot. Of course, this is at the expense of low sweep range, so you'll have
to balance the trimpot to get a reasonable compromise, but overall it sounds
better - more high pass when open, and less muddy.

Regarding bleed, if you made the generic circuit, I also changed capacitor
values there on my SK adapted version. Try those values, I think I chose those
values because they sounded better. Some mp3 examples of what my own adapted
board sounds like are in the FILES section in the same folder as the simple VCF
folder. Have a close listen to them and see if they sound better than your board
in the same situation. You might decide to make the adaptations I made if it
sounds better.

Cheers, graham


--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "kingconga42" <justin@...> wrote:
>
> Sinne- i'm always looking for simple new circuits, do you have a schematic of
your salen-key filter?
>
> I'm also having some trouble with the simple VCF. There is a bit of dry signal
bleeding in, and the wet signal sounds a bit muddy. But i haven't given up yet.
>
> -justin
>
> --- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "sinne.morgen" <sinne.morgen@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > first I like to thank you for your answer, I already read it a week ago or
so, just were too busy to write back.
> >
> > I didnt actually find out where my mistake was. Nevertheless I did manage to
build a simple lowpass cutoff filter with resonance control (a simple Sallen-Key
Filter...). It actually works great and has even less parts than the "Simple
VCF", allthough I dont know how to change it to a version with a control
voltage. Doesnt matter to me, thats all I need right now.
> >
> > Greetings from Germany
> >
> > Sinne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "gmeredith1" <gmeredith1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Which version of the circuit board did you make? The upper, generic one,
or the lower, specially adapted one for the Casio SK?
> > >
> > > If you're using the bottom one, take note that the IC pins 1, 5 and 8 are
NOT connected to the board - bend their pins out horizontally before you put the
IC in the board - Or better yet, always use an IC socket soldered to the board
instead of the IC - then you can just plug it in. In this case make sure pins 1,
5 and 8 of the socket are not connected but bent out horizontally.
> > >
> > > The bottom circuit is a little bit cramped and its easy to make a mistake.
I made it that small so it could be fitted inside the SK easily.
> > >
> > > Why not try making the generic circuit first? Then at least you can
troubleshoot the 2nd circuit with a working one. Just print out the generic
track board picture on a piece of paper - try and scale it on the printer so
that it prints out at actual size to the components. Now glue the printout to a
thin piece of cardboard, like from a cereal packet. Punch holes with a needle
where there are holes marked on the track.
> > >
> > > Thread your component legs through the holes, and bend the legs on the
other side in the shape of the tracks, joining them up with some scrap wire from
cutoffs from components and insulated wire where neccesary. Mount a socket in
the cardboard and solder the wires to join up the socket legs to the components.
> > >
> > > It's as easy as that - I do that sort of thing lots and its really easy.
Get that one working, and treat it like an external effects box - put some input
and output jacks on it so you can plug anything into it, and so test it. Plug a
lead into the output jack of the SK and the other end into the filter input, and
its output into an amplifier. Keep the SK volume down low otherwise it will
easily overload the generic filter and cause distortion - that's why I added
extra components to the specific SK circuit to address that issue.
> > >
> > > Cheers, graham
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "sinne.morgen" <sinne.morgen@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello,
> > > >
> > > > I'm trying to build the "Simple VCF" like the tutorial in the
filessection. First I used a AD822 opAmp; had one leftover with only one side
working (normally it is a double opamp). Sounded quite messy... My second try
with an NE5334AN didnt work either.
> > > >
> > > > I put the VCF right before the Volume Dial and I used mostly film caps.
> > > > Am I missing something here (like changing some resistors to another
avlue) or just not able to solder properly?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Regards
> > > > Sinne
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkwOzCrckOI

ENJOY!

Giorgio

Wow, thanx man. I will watch it in a moment!

Greetz,

Yerz

______________________________________

http://spaszaki.republika.pl/ - CASIO SK-5 music



CasioSK@yahoogroups.com napisa³(a):


   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkwOzCrckOI

   ENJOY!

   Giorgio




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the CasioSK
group.

   File        : /Songs by SK's/Casio_SK.mp3
   Uploaded by : epitaph68 <doug_francis@...>
   Description : Made with SK-1 and SK-5 only.

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CasioSK/files/Songs%20by%20SK%27s/Casio_SK.mp3

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/general.htmlfiles

Regards,

epitaph68 <doug_francis@...>

Hi,

published today by AUDIO SODOMY label.

http://www.archive.org/download/asr22zip/ASR22.zip

Keyboards used:
CASIO SK-1
CASIO SA-39
YAMAHA PSS-50
...and 6 beers for every band's member.

Greetz,
Yerz

So I got an sk-1 the other day, loads of sweet bends and sounds, but I'm
wondering what the two blue 'synthesizing' buttons are for?
They don't seem to do much, are they something to do with re-sampling?

Something else I've been wondering - spent some time messing about with the amp
section and some caps, to get some filtering - would it be possible to 'hack' a
resonant filter from the sk-1's amp IC?

You can get a nice lowpass filter with just a pot and cap, but how does
resonance work?

--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "squidforhands" <paranoidmate@...> wrote:
>
> So I got an sk-1 the other day, loads of sweet bends and sounds, but I'm
wondering what the two blue 'synthesizing' buttons are for?
> They don't seem to do much, are they something to do with re-sampling?

The synthesizing button on the left (when pushed) lets you set the key tone for
the synthesizing button on the right. Push the left button, then push a key on
the keyboard, there is an octave range, so only the cental octave on the
keyboard will select tones. Once you have selected a tone, every time you select
the synthesizing button on the right this tone comes up across the entire keybed
just like if you selected the flute button or the sample button for example.
Hope I explained this well enough from memory, anyone care to expand or correct
me here?  Check out my link to the all casio song snippet I did with only a sk-1
and a sk-5 in the files section or previos post here.  DRFRESH.

are you able to play the keys when rom bends are active ? i have found a couple
bends that do not dissable the keyboard. and will find out tonight how they work
in combo.

If your bends did dissable the keys... were you able to trigger via a UMR ?
D

hi i concentrated on the ram and rom chips for sample bends and found some good
points.
however i did not find any bends for the rom pads yet.
here is a video.
http://www.bumpcoa.com
d
ps: any body know where to get the little female bolts for d sub connectors?

On Aug 22, 2009, at 6:39 PM, babyd_lhp wrote:

> <SNIP>
> ps: any body know where to get the little female bolts for d sub
> connectors?
>
Try a local computer supplier, particularly one that's been around a
while.
They may have some lying around somewhere (we never throw stuff out
because you never know when you'll need something, and who has the time
to organize anyways?).

Try not to come at a busy time, bring a sample or a picture, and
though you
may not get charged for it, offer to buy them a soda/pop or similar.
This also works for bike stores, etc.

c²

Any body care to shed soem light on the subject ?
please :)
d

You could try John at the Highly Liquid forum, I'm sure he'll know:

http://forum.highlyliquid.com/forumdisplay.php?s=be9ca5f08fc1bd6bc3e3cda45d64afd\
f&f=4

Cheers, Graham

--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "babyd_lhp" <babyd_lhp@...> wrote:
>
> Any body care to shed soem light on the subject ?
> please :)
> d
>

Graham
thank you
http://www.bumpcoa.com
d

--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "gmeredith1" <gmeredith1@...> wrote:
>
> You could try John at the Highly Liquid forum, I'm sure he'll know:
>
>
http://forum.highlyliquid.com/forumdisplay.php?s=be9ca5f08fc1bd6bc3e3cda45d64afd\
f&f=4
>
> Cheers, Graham
>
> --- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "babyd_lhp" <babyd_lhp@> wrote:
> >
> > Any body care to shed soem light on the subject ?
> > please :)
> > d
> >
>

Hi my name is 6 and i'm new on Circuit Bending...
At the moment i've just made my first 3 Speak and spell/read/maths,one aleatron
sk5 and quite few of toys from  charity shops.
Now is time for me to work on a CASIO SK1(a cornerstone)and coz there are not so
many around i will like not to ruin it..

Where i can find some decent schematics or anything can help me?

Thanks.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

there is a bunch in the files section here in the group.
i think thee is moe online for an sk-1 than there is fo an sk-5.
There are sk-1 directions in this book from a master bender.
http://www.anti-theory.com/book/
d

--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, Simone Ghigino <simoneghigino@...> wrote:
>
> Hi my name is 6 and i'm new on Circuit Bending...
> At the moment i've just made my first 3 Speak and spell/read/maths,one
aleatron sk5 and quite few of toys from  charity shops.
> Now is time for me to work on a CASIO SK1(a cornerstone)and coz there are not
so many around i will like not to ruin it..
>
> Where i can find some decent schematics or anything can help me?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi..thank yo so much for answer me..i really appreciate.

I have read all the QRG book but there are Few mistake on the diagrams...that is
why i'm try to find a better solution for that bending.

Speak whit you soon.take it easy!

--- Mer 2/9/09, babyd_lhp <babyd_lhp@...> ha scritto:

Da: babyd_lhp <babyd_lhp@...>
Oggetto: [CasioSK] Re: Hello everyone...can someone help me?
A: CasioSK@yahoogroups.com
Data: Mercoledì 2 settembre 2009, 06:15






 





                   there is a bunch in the files section here in the group.

i think thee is moe online for an sk-1 than there is fo an sk-5.

There are sk-1 directions in this book from a master bender.

http://www.anti- theory.com/ book/

d



--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups .com, Simone Ghigino <simoneghigino@ ...> wrote:

>

> Hi my name is 6 and i'm new on Circuit Bending...

> At the moment i've just made my first 3 Speak and spell/read/maths, one
aleatron sk5 and quite few of toys from  charity shops.

> Now is time for me to work on a CASIO SK1(a cornerstone) and coz there are not
so many around i will like not to ruin it..

>

> Where i can find some decent schematics or anything can help me?

>

> Thanks.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hey I am looking for schematics and bend points on the casio rapman - I assume
it shares alot of similarities with the sk's like the power starve crash, but
does anyone else have any tips for this great instrument?  Thanks! :)

Hi dude!..
At the moment i dont have any but i will look aroun for you!
If you want to know about power starve crash i think you must look on

www.casperelectronics.com





Simon
www.myspace.com/acipitruminsula.




--- Lun 7/9/09, zephlerisback <sdufour@...> ha scritto:

Da: zephlerisback <sdufour@...>
Oggetto: [CasioSK] help with casio rapman
A: CasioSK@yahoogroups.com
Data: Lunedì 7 settembre 2009, 22:22






 





                   hey I am looking for schematics and bend points on the casio
rapman - I assume it shares alot of similarities with the sk's like the power
starve crash, but does anyone else have any tips for this great instrument? 
Thanks! :)































[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I need to buy some keys for the sk-1, but seeing as they do not sell them
anymore, does anyone know of a similiar keyboard that has the same sized keys?

the light up Casio has the same size keys as my sk-5 they are grey and let the
red light through. i was wondering the same.
d


--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "zephlerisback" <sdufour@...> wrote:
>
> I need to buy some keys for the sk-1, but seeing as they do not sell them
anymore, does anyone know of a similiar keyboard that has the same sized keys?
>

--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "zephlerisback" <sdufour@...> wrote:
>
> I need to buy some keys for the sk-1, but seeing as they do not sell them
anymore, does anyone know of a similiar keyboard that has the same sized keys?
>

i have two "kawasaki" little kids keyboards and the keys are almost exact in
size. the bottoms look different though. i don't know about swapping them... but
seems do-able.
scour your local "Value Pillage" "goodwill" thrift stores.

Can't seem to search the group posts at the moment. I am looking for the best
bend to put a pot in the SK5 and speed it up/slow it down. I've found a ton of
bends on gnd+chips but can't seem to find where the ^%$# pitch is located and/or
how to mess with it.

Google searches for bends keep showing up with the SK1. Is there no love for the
SK5?

any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks

D_

I was able to find a good drum pitch spot that pitches down pretty far. but the
pitch spot for the keys and pads described here in the group is weak. someone
with a bunch of experience told me to use an oscillator chip to do the crazy
over all pitch. they sell one on getlofi.com
d


--- In CasioSK@yahoogroups.com, "legion" <legion01x@...> wrote:
>
> Can't seem to search the group posts at the moment. I am looking for the best
bend to put a pot in the SK5 and speed it up/slow it down. I've found a ton of
bends on gnd+chips but can't seem to find where the ^%$# pitch is located and/or
how to mess with it.
>
> Google searches for bends keep showing up with the SK1. Is there no love for
the SK5?
>
> any help greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> D_
>

yes I have looked at that picture for where to solder some other oscillator
circuit to, but can someone please help me and post where to and how to solder
up the ltc1799 oscillator?!  THanks!