Sounds like some blown-out JFET J109 ?

In black on the picture below :

http://tk386.com/k2000_innards/DSC_6932.jpg 

Position Q9, Q10... 

Needs either replacement, either removal.

Fred
--

http://www.myspace.com/zemardiz


________________________________
  De : "billsan@..." <billsan@...>
À : "KurzList@yahoogroups.com" <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
Envoyé le : Samedi 24 mars 2012 1h52
Objet : [KL] K2000 with very low output


 
My original K2000, purchased from Sweetwater in 1992,  has developed a very low
output from the master outputs.  The A outputs are much hotter but I cant adjust
them from the Master Volume slidder. I can boost the output of the master outs
from the EDIT page, but I need to boost it to about 24DB before its usable.
Could someone please help?

Bill



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My band IQ are headlining the second day of the Rites of Spring Festival
(RoSFest) on May 5th in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, and as a British band we're
flying over to the US for the show with minimal equipment. The backline company
lined up for the festival can provide a lot of the gear we need, but are sadly
lacking in Kurzweil equipment (shame on them!). Specifically my keyboard rig
requires a PC3x and a PC361, and it's critical that I find exactly those
keyboards as I have a large number of setups programmed in to control my rack
modules etc.

Can any of you US-based Kurzweil owners recommend somewhere reliable that I
might be able to hire a PC3x and PC361 in that region for that day? Or do you
live nearby and would be able to help me out? I'd be happy to pay standard hire
rates, and should be able to get you on the guest list for the show itself.

Hope someone can help...starting to get very worried!

Neil

http://clairbackline.com/

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: neildurant@...
Sender: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 12:42:08
To: <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KL] Need to hire/borrow Kurzweil gear in Pennsylvania area

My band IQ are headlining the second day of the Rites of Spring Festival
(RoSFest) on May 5th in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, and as a British band we're
flying over to the US for the show with minimal equipment. The backline company
lined up for the festival can provide a lot of the gear we need, but are sadly
lacking in Kurzweil equipment (shame on them!). Specifically my keyboard rig
requires a PC3x and a PC361, and it's critical that I find exactly those
keyboards as I have a large number of setups programmed in to control my rack
modules etc.

Can any of you US-based Kurzweil owners recommend somewhere reliable that I
might be able to hire a PC3x and PC361 in that region for that day? Or do you
live nearby and would be able to help me out? I'd be happy to pay standard hire
rates, and should be able to get you on the guest list for the show itself.

Hope someone can help...starting to get very worried!

Neil




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Having the "A" outs work normal and the mix bad may not be a bad JFET, but it is
the first thing to check.  The headphones, due to there low impedance,  may
work correctly when JFETs fail.


When one or more JFETs short, they bring the mute control line to ground.  This
prevents the other JFETS from turning off completely and you will often have
clipping or distortion. Since there will now be a small unwanted DC voltage on
the output jack, if you plug in while powered up, a bad JFET will cause a loud
pop.  Normal is less than .007 Volts, slightly higher on the mix(from
effects).  Anything above that is  a problem(miss adjusting the effect offset
will also do this). 


There should also be a JFET protection board 3M taped to the back of the output
jacks with black wire soldered to the jacks. This came out after the first
couple of production runs to prevent static discharges from blowing the JFET
mutes.




>________________________________
> From: Roi de la plage <roidelaplage@...>
>To: "KurzList@yahoogroups.com" <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 12:36 AM
>Subject: Re : [KL] K2000 with very low output
>
>
> 
>Sounds like some blown-out JFET J109 ?
>
>In black on the picture below :
>
>http://tk386.com/k2000_innards/DSC_6932.jpg 
>
>Position Q9, Q10... 
>
>Needs either replacement, either removal.
>
>Fred
>--
>
>http://www.myspace.com/zemardiz
>
>________________________________
>De : "billsan@..." <billsan@...>
>À : "KurzList@yahoogroups.com" <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
>Envoyé le : Samedi 24 mars 2012 1h52
>Objet : [KL] K2000 with very low output
>
>
> 
>My original K2000, purchased from Sweetwater in 1992,  has developed a very low
>output from the master outputs.  The A outputs are much hotter but I cant
adjust
>them from the Master Volume slidder. I can boost the output of the master outs
>from the EDIT page, but I need to boost it to about 24DB before its usable.
>Could someone please help?
>
>Bill
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i have a mix out problem but think mines due to fualty10k audio stereo fader

as if i put it up full volume i get it only comming out of 1 side but if i set
the fader half way its full volume both sides
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Roger J
   To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 6:54 PM
   Subject: Re: Re : [KL] K2000 with very low output



   Having the "A" outs work normal and the mix bad may not be a bad JFET, but it
is the first thing to check.  The headphones, due to there low impedance,  may
work correctly when JFETs fail.

   When one or more JFETs short, they bring the mute control line to ground. 
This prevents the other JFETS from turning off completely and you will often
have clipping or distortion. Since there will now be a small unwanted DC voltage
on the output jack, if you plug in while powered up, a bad JFET will cause a
loud pop.  Normal is less than .007 Volts, slightly higher on the mix(from
effects).  Anything above that is  a problem(miss adjusting the effect offset
will also do this).

   There should also be a JFET protection board 3M taped to the back of the
output jacks with black wire soldered to the jacks. This came out after the
first couple of production runs to prevent static discharges from blowing the
JFET mutes.

   >________________________________
   > From: Roi de la plage <roidelaplage@...>
   >To: "KurzList@yahoogroups.com" <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
   >Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 12:36 AM
   >Subject: Re : [KL] K2000 with very low output
   >
   >
   >
   >Sounds like some blown-out JFET J109 ?
   >
   >In black on the picture below :
   >
   >http://tk386.com/k2000_innards/DSC_6932.jpg
   >
   >Position Q9, Q10...
   >
   >Needs either replacement, either removal.
   >
   >Fred
   >--
   >
   >http://www.myspace.com/zemardiz
   >
   >________________________________
   >De : "billsan@..." <billsan@...>
   >À : "KurzList@yahoogroups.com" <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
   >Envoyé le : Samedi 24 mars 2012 1h52
   >Objet : [KL] K2000 with very low output
   >
   >
   >
   >My original K2000, purchased from Sweetwater in 1992, has developed a very
low
   >output from the master outputs. The A outputs are much hotter but I cant
adjust
   >them from the Master Volume slidder. I can boost the output of the master
outs
   >from the EDIT page, but I need to boost it to about 24DB before its usable.
   >Could someone please help?
   >
   >Bill
   >
   >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   >
   >
   >
   >
   >

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yep!




>________________________________
> From: jammie <jammie.emma@...>
>To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 11:07 AM
>Subject: Re: Re : [KL] K2000 with very low output
>
>
> 
>i have a mix out problem but think mines due to fualty10k audio stereo fader
>
>as if i put it up full volume i get it only comming out of 1 side but if i set
the fader half way its full volume both sides
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Roger J
>To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 6:54 PM
>Subject: Re: Re : [KL] K2000 with very low output
>
>Having the "A" outs work normal and the mix bad may not be a bad JFET, but it
is the first thing to check.  The headphones, due to there low impedance,  may
work correctly when JFETs fail.
>
>When one or more JFETs short, they bring the mute control line to ground.  This
prevents the other JFETS from turning off completely and you will often have
clipping or distortion. Since there will now be a small unwanted DC voltage on
the output jack, if you plug in while powered up, a bad JFET will cause a loud
pop.  Normal is less than .007 Volts, slightly higher on the mix(from effects). 
Anything above that is  a problem(miss adjusting the effect offset will also do
this).
>
>There should also be a JFET protection board 3M taped to the back of the output
jacks with black wire soldered to the jacks. This came out after the first
couple of production runs to prevent static discharges from blowing the JFET
mutes.
>
>>________________________________
>> From: Roi de la plage <roidelaplage@...>
>>To: "KurzList@yahoogroups.com" <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 12:36 AM
>>Subject: Re : [KL] K2000 with very low output
>>
>>
>>
>>Sounds like some blown-out JFET J109 ?
>>
>>In black on the picture below :
>>
>>http://tk386.com/k2000_innards/DSC_6932.jpg
>>
>>Position Q9, Q10...
>>
>>Needs either replacement, either removal.
>>
>>Fred
>>--
>>
>>http://www.myspace.com/zemardiz
>>
>>________________________________
>>De : "billsan@..." <billsan@...>
>>À : "KurzList@yahoogroups.com" <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
>>Envoyé le : Samedi 24 mars 2012 1h52
>>Objet : [KL] K2000 with very low output
>>
>>
>>
>>My original K2000, purchased from Sweetwater in 1992, has developed a very low
>>output from the master outputs. The A outputs are much hotter but I cant
adjust
>>them from the Master Volume slidder. I can boost the output of the master outs
>>from the EDIT page, but I need to boost it to about 24DB before its usable.
>>Could someone please help?
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

thanks for the replies.  A battery replacement didn't do the trick.

--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, Roger J <winking_n_nodding@...> wrote:
>
> The battery is a socket on the circuit board below the bottom access plate. 
The replacement battery can be found anywhere. Remove screws, slide battery out,
install the replacement, replace plate, done.  Some times it takes a small
effort to remove the battery, as it is firmly held by it socket. Back up if
needed, otherwise it will return to factory stock, minus anything RAM stored
objects or sequences.
>
>
>
>
> >________________________________
> > From: narfman96 <narfman96@...>
> >To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> >Sent: Friday, March 23, 2012 1:47 PM
> >Subject: [KL] Re: PC2X Electronic Malfunction
> >
> >
> > 
> >What are all these week old posts coming up in my email???? Have I been
asleep again? RIP!
> >
> >--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, "beav909" <dberriman@> wrote:
> >>
> >> I've had this great board for 12 years, but it is showing its age as it
appears to have a low battery and a memory that gets all messed up whenever I
try to program, layer, split, etc...  I don't know if the low battery would be
related to the electronic malfunctioning.  I've tried a total reset of the
entire keyboard, to no avail.  The internal sounds still work fine and as long
as I don't do much layering or adjusting, there's no problem.
> >>
> >> Can anyone help?  Should I take it into a repair shop or try to install
something from the Kurzweil website?  Finding a shop that knows what they're
doing and get it done reasonably quickly isn't very easy, btw.   I've never
"updated" a thing on it, so maybe that would solve the problem. ???  Any ideas
beofre I go and start shopping for a new board?
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Did you hard reset or run the built in diagnostics?




>________________________________
> From: beav909 <dberriman@...>
>To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 5:35 PM
>Subject: [KL] Re: PC2X Electronic Malfunction
>
>
> 
>thanks for the replies.  A battery replacement didn't do the trick.
>
>--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, Roger J <winking_n_nodding@...> wrote:
>>
>> The battery is a socket on the circuit board below the bottom access
plate.  The replacement battery can be found anywhere. Remove screws, slide
battery out, install the replacement, replace plate, done.  Some times it
takes a small effort to remove the battery, as it is firmly held by it socket.
Back up if needed, otherwise it will return to factory stock, minus anything RAM
stored objects or sequences.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >________________________________
>> > From: narfman96 <narfman96@...>
>> >To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
>> >Sent: Friday, March 23, 2012 1:47 PM
>> >Subject: [KL] Re: PC2X Electronic Malfunction
>> >
>> >
>> > 
>> >What are all these week old posts coming up in my email???? Have I been
asleep again? RIP!
>> >
>> >--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, "beav909" <dberriman@> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I've had this great board for 12 years, but it is showing its age as it
appears to have a low battery and a memory that gets all messed up whenever I
try to program, layer, split, etc...  I don't know if the low battery would be
related to the electronic malfunctioning.  I've tried a total reset of the
entire keyboard, to no avail.  The internal sounds still work fine and as long
as I don't do much layering or adjusting, there's no problem.
>> >>
>> >> Can anyone help?  Should I take it into a repair shop or try to install
something from the Kurzweil website?  Finding a shop that knows what they're
doing and get it done reasonably quickly isn't very easy, btw.   I've never
"updated" a thing on it, so maybe that would solve the problem. ???  Any ideas
beofre I go and start shopping for a new board?
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re key bushings, if the felt is not totally shot, you may not have to replace
it.  I'm not a piano tech but have fixed many Rhodes and Wurlies with loose and
sticking keys by just tightening and easing the action.  You can do this with a
couple pliers and a screwdriver.  Piano techs use special tools, but if the
action isn't too far gone, you can get by without 'em.

To tighten up a wobbly key, take it out and check the bushing felt.  If it looks
reasonably ok, you can (gently) compress the sides of the key with pliers. 
Also, you can pick at felt which has become somewhat compressed over time with
the tip of an xacto knife or scribe.  If the felt is rock-hard, time to replace
it, though.

If the wood has swelled slightly (usually due to humidity) and the key binds at
the top of the pivot pin, then you can insert needle-nose pliers and (gently)
expand the hole.  Sometimes it's not the felt at the top, but the hole at the
base of the key which grips the pin too tightly.  A Phillips head screwdriver
with a thin shank can be used to ream it so the key pivots freely.

Check the front rail pin to make sure it's not too tight or loose.  You should
be able to brush a group of keys with the edge your hand and have them all move
together down and back up smoothly.  You don't want a lot of lateral movement
which dissipates some force of the downward keystroke and makes the action
uneven.  One Rhodes had a lot of corrosion on the pins.  Rubbing them with
steel-wool was needed to get them smooth again, so the keys wouldn't catch
slightly on the rough spots.  If you have to rub off too much of the coating on
a pin, then you have to replace the pin, because it will oxidize and the rust
will impede key movement again.  I would do that vs oiling the pin, although
Vintage Vibe does sell oil for this purpose (probably any light-grade oil would
do fine).  In general, I don't use oil, graphite or any lube on actions, just
make sure things are mechanically OK and work smoothly when dry.  Even a Rhodes
can be tweaked to play very nicely un-lubed, but ymmv.

When tightening/easing keys, you don't want to get too aggressive and crack 'em!
Take your time with the first few until you get a feel for it.  If you have one
key on the Midiboard that plays the way you like, use it for a reference and try
to get all of 'em to play that way.  It's not rocket science and gets real
tedious quickly.  But in the end, you should have a uber-smooth keyboard.

Good luck!




--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Laity <synthetic@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone, downloading now. I have already checked the multipins and
they seem fine. I suspect the digital ground or the ADC. I'm going to replace
that ADC0820, C37 and C27 and hope that does it.
>
> On Feb 23, 2012, at 4:50 AM, atmospherics4@... wrote:
>
> > I also have the needed files.....check the connectors behind the left front
panel for lose or disconnected multipin....it connects wheels and the AB sliders
to the main board....often losses up on older units.
> > D
> > Sent via my  CrackBerry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Daniel Forró <dan.for@...>
> > Sender: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 15:11:52
> > To: <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
> > Reply-To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [KL] MIDIboard service manual?
> >
> > Hi, Jeff,
> >
> > you (and other 29) can download everything what I have from here
> > before March 8:
> >
> > http://www.uschovna.cz/en/package/H1ES98DP5UUL4JCE-CK4
> >
> > Enjoy, and good luck with your repair. It's a great machine.
> >
> > Daniel Forro
> >
> > On Feb 23, 2012, at 1:42 PM, Jeff Laity wrote:
> >
> >> Hello, first post and first-time Kurzweil owner.
> >>
> >> I just purchased a MIDIboard and I'm in the process of bringing it
> >> back to 100% health. Does anyone have a service manual for this
> >> thing? I saw some posts about it in the archives but couldn't find
> >> the actual document. Kurzweil no longer supports the product, and
> >> even though I know some of the management there they don't even have
> >> a copy. So if someone has a PDF that would be much appreciated.
> >>
> >> One of the problems I'm having is with the sliders and wheels. Today
> >> I turned it on and saw "error 13," and the user manual suggests that
> >> these may be the ADC0820 or the sample and hold ground. (Wow, don't
> >> you miss this kind of info in a user manual?)
> >>
> >> Another project is the key bushings. Has anyone done this
> >> themselves? It will cost me $350 for a piano tuner to do it, but
> >> probably $150 in parts and tools to even attempt myself.
> >>
> >> Thanks for your help.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > To QUIT KurzList, send a *blank* message to
kurzlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > It will take from 24 to 48 hours for Yahoo!Groups to cancel you.Yahoo!
Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

Unfortunately, this information if deployed will ruin your vintage MB. There are
other alternatives, much less destructive. If you take apart the upper housing,
removing the front panel you will be able to remove each key.
The forward metal "key pin" , responsible for keeping the key in place, can be
turned slightly, thus making it wider. This will help eliminate the excessive
side to side wobble.

Two things one must understand: turning the pin should be done with a metal,
shaped like a "C", or a plier that doesn't have ridges that will cut the soft
metal of the front pin. It should also be turned from under the felt cushion
rather that on top, so if you do damage the plating it won't bind/cut the key
bushing felt. 2nd, it may bind if turned too much and cause sticky keys. It's a
compromise, the only true way to "repair" this is to have the bushings replaced.

This method is reversible, and will not be permenantly destructive as prescribed
by foodump.
On Mar 30, 2012, at 7:06 AM, KurzList@yahoogroups.com wrote:

The Kurzweil Musical Instrument E-mail Discussion List
Messages In This Digest (1 Message)
1a.
Re: MIDIboard service manual? From: foodump
View All Topics | Create New TopicMessage
1a.
Re: MIDIboard service manual?
Posted by: "foodump" foodump@...   foodump
Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:13 am (PDT)




Re key bushings, if the felt is not totally shot, you may not have to replace
it. I'm not a piano tech but have fixed many Rhodes and Wurlies with loose and
sticking keys by just tightening and easing the action. You can do this with a
couple pliers and a screwdriver. Piano techs use special tools, but if the
action isn't too far gone, you can get by without 'em.

To tighten up a wobbly key, take it out and check the bushing felt. If it looks
reasonably ok, you can (gently) compress the sides of the key with pliers. Also,
you can pick at felt which has become somewhat compressed over time with the tip
of an xacto knife or scribe. If the felt is rock-hard, time to replace it,
though.

If the wood has swelled slightly (usually due to humidity) and the key binds at
the top of the pivot pin, then you can insert needle-nose pliers and (gently)
expand the hole. Sometimes it's not the felt at the top, but the hole at the
base of the key which grips the pin too tightly. A Phillips head screwdriver
with a thin shank can be used to ream it so the key pivots freely.

Check the front rail pin to make sure it's not too tight or loose. You should be
able to brush a group of keys with the edge your hand and have them all move
together down and back up smoothly. You don't want a lot of lateral movement
which dissipates some force of the downward keystroke and makes the action
uneven. One Rhodes had a lot of corrosion on the pins. Rubbing them with
steel-wool was needed to get them smooth again, so the keys wouldn't catch
slightly on the rough spots. If you have to rub off too much of the coating on a
pin, then you have to replace the pin, because it will oxidize and the rust will
impede key movement again. I would do that vs oiling the pin, although Vintage
Vibe does sell oil for this purpose (probably any light-grade oil would do
fine). In general, I don't use oil, graphite or any lube on actions, just make
sure things are mechanically OK and work smoothly when dry. Even a Rhodes can be
tweaked to play very nicely un-lubed, but ymmv.

When tightening/easing keys, you don't want to get too aggressive and crack 'em!
Take your time with the first few until you get a feel for it. If you have one
key on the Midiboard that plays the way you like, use it for a reference and try
to get all of 'em to play that way. It's not rocket science and gets real
tedious quickly. But in the end, you should have a uber-smooth keyboard.

Good luck!

--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Laity <synthetic@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone, downloading now. I have already checked the multipins and
they seem fine. I suspect the digital ground or the ADC. I'm going to replace
that ADC0820, C37 and C27 and hope that does it.
>
> On Feb 23, 2012, at 4:50 AM, atmospherics4@... wrote:
>
> > I also have the needed files.....check the connectors behind the left front
panel for lose or disconnected multipin....it connects wheels and the AB sliders
to the main board....often losses up on older units.
> > D
> > Sent via my CrackBerry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Daniel Forró <dan.for@...>
> > Sender: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 15:11:52
> > To: <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
> > Reply-To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [KL] MIDIboard service manual?
> >
> > Hi, Jeff,
> >
> > you (and other 29) can download everything what I have from here
> > before March 8:
> >
> > http://www.uschovna.cz/en/package/H1ES98DP5UUL4JCE-CK4
> >
> > Enjoy, and good luck with your repair. It's a great machine.
> >
> > Daniel Forro
> >
> > On Feb 23, 2012, at 1:42 PM, Jeff Laity wrote:
> >
> >> Hello, first post and first-time Kurzweil owner.
> >>
> >> I just purchased a MIDIboard and I'm in the process of bringing it
> >> back to 100% health. Does anyone have a service manual for this
> >> thing? I saw some posts about it in the archives but couldn't find
> >> the actual document. Kurzweil no longer supports the product, and
> >> even though I know some of the management there they don't even have
> >> a copy. So if someone has a PDF that would be much appreciated.
> >>
> >> One of the problems I'm having is with the sliders and wheels. Today
> >> I turned it on and saw "error 13," and the user manual suggests that
> >> these may be the ADC0820 or the sample and hold ground. (Wow, don't
> >> you miss this kind of info in a user manual?)
> >>
> >> Another project is the key bushings. Has anyone done this
> >> themselves? It will cost me $350 for a piano tuner to do it, but
> >> probably $150 in parts and tools to even attempt myself.
> >>
> >> Thanks for your help.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > To QUIT KurzList, send a *blank* message to
kurzlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > It will take from 24 to 48 hours for Yahoo!Groups to cancel you.Yahoo!
Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

I have conected KURZWEIL PC2X to PC but,... PC can not detect Keyboard...

I have a

Laptop DELL D630,

2.5 Ghz Processor speed,

4GB Memory

I have Reason 4 Software

I have a USB to MIDI Cable.

I do not know the problem...

Can you help me?....

Hello Group

Could someone point me to a repair specialist where i can send my mother board
fro repairs and or replacement

Wayne John

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P Wethington's advice re turning pins is valid.  Re permanent destruction, if
you fear that, don't work on your own stuff.  For situations where turning pins
doesn't help, PW has an opinion.

The OP didn't wanna spend $$ hiring a pro or buying special tools, so replacing
bushings doesn't sound like an on-topic option.  Although I'm not an RPT (& PW
might be one), I've watched an RPT do this trick to a few notes on our baby
grand in addition to turning pins.  It's probably a down & dirty way to avoid
replacing bushing felts in certain situations.  It worked for him, has worked
for me, ymmv.




--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, "Wethington, P" <thirdharmonic@...> wrote:
>
>
> Unfortunately, this information if deployed will ruin your vintage MB. There
are other alternatives, much less destructive. If you take apart the upper
housing, removing the front panel you will be able to remove each key.
> The forward metal "key pin" , responsible for keeping the key in place, can be
turned slightly, thus making it wider. This will help eliminate the excessive
side to side wobble.
>
> Two things one must understand: turning the pin should be done with a metal,
shaped like a "C", or a plier that doesn't have ridges that will cut the soft
metal of the front pin. It should also be turned from under the felt cushion
rather that on top, so if you do damage the plating it won't bind/cut the key
bushing felt. 2nd, it may bind if turned too much and cause sticky keys. It's a
compromise, the only true way to "repair" this is to have the bushings replaced.
>
> This method is reversible, and will not be permenantly destructive as
prescribed by foodump.
> On Mar 30, 2012, at 7:06 AM, KurzList@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>
> The Kurzweil Musical Instrument E-mail Discussion List
> Messages In This Digest (1 Message)
> 1a.
> Re: MIDIboard service manual? From: foodump
> View All Topics | Create New TopicMessage
> 1a.
> Re: MIDIboard service manual?
> Posted by: "foodump" foodump@...   foodump
> Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:13 am (PDT)
>
>
>
>
> Re key bushings, if the felt is not totally shot, you may not have to replace
it. I'm not a piano tech but have fixed many Rhodes and Wurlies with loose and
sticking keys by just tightening and easing the action. You can do this with a
couple pliers and a screwdriver. Piano techs use special tools, but if the
action isn't too far gone, you can get by without 'em.
>
> To tighten up a wobbly key, take it out and check the bushing felt. If it
looks reasonably ok, you can (gently) compress the sides of the key with pliers.
Also, you can pick at felt which has become somewhat compressed over time with
the tip of an xacto knife or scribe. If the felt is rock-hard, time to replace
it, though.
>
> If the wood has swelled slightly (usually due to humidity) and the key binds
at the top of the pivot pin, then you can insert needle-nose pliers and (gently)
expand the hole. Sometimes it's not the felt at the top, but the hole at the
base of the key which grips the pin too tightly. A Phillips head screwdriver
with a thin shank can be used to ream it so the key pivots freely.
>
> Check the front rail pin to make sure it's not too tight or loose. You should
be able to brush a group of keys with the edge your hand and have them all move
together down and back up smoothly. You don't want a lot of lateral movement
which dissipates some force of the downward keystroke and makes the action
uneven. One Rhodes had a lot of corrosion on the pins. Rubbing them with
steel-wool was needed to get them smooth again, so the keys wouldn't catch
slightly on the rough spots. If you have to rub off too much of the coating on a
pin, then you have to replace the pin, because it will oxidize and the rust will
impede key movement again. I would do that vs oiling the pin, although Vintage
Vibe does sell oil for this purpose (probably any light-grade oil would do
fine). In general, I don't use oil, graphite or any lube on actions, just make
sure things are mechanically OK and work smoothly when dry. Even a Rhodes can be
tweaked to play very nicely un-lubed, but ymmv.
>
> When tightening/easing keys, you don't want to get too aggressive and crack
'em! Take your time with the first few until you get a feel for it. If you have
one key on the Midiboard that plays the way you like, use it for a reference and
try to get all of 'em to play that way. It's not rocket science and gets real
tedious quickly. But in the end, you should have a uber-smooth keyboard.
>
> Good luck!
>
> --- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Laity <synthetic@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks everyone, downloading now. I have already checked the multipins and
they seem fine. I suspect the digital ground or the ADC. I'm going to replace
that ADC0820, C37 and C27 and hope that does it.
> >
> > On Feb 23, 2012, at 4:50 AM, atmospherics4@ wrote:
> >
> > > I also have the needed files.....check the connectors behind the left
front panel for lose or disconnected multipin....it connects wheels and the AB
sliders to the main board....often losses up on older units.
> > > D
> > > Sent via my CrackBerry
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Daniel Forró <dan.for@>
> > > Sender: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 15:11:52
> > > To: <KurzList@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Reply-To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [KL] MIDIboard service manual?
> > >
> > > Hi, Jeff,
> > >
> > > you (and other 29) can download everything what I have from here
> > > before March 8:
> > >
> > > http://www.uschovna.cz/en/package/H1ES98DP5UUL4JCE-CK4
> > >
> > > Enjoy, and good luck with your repair. It's a great machine.
> > >
> > > Daniel Forro
> > >
> > > On Feb 23, 2012, at 1:42 PM, Jeff Laity wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello, first post and first-time Kurzweil owner.
> > >>
> > >> I just purchased a MIDIboard and I'm in the process of bringing it
> > >> back to 100% health. Does anyone have a service manual for this
> > >> thing? I saw some posts about it in the archives but couldn't find
> > >> the actual document. Kurzweil no longer supports the product, and
> > >> even though I know some of the management there they don't even have
> > >> a copy. So if someone has a PDF that would be much appreciated.
> > >>
> > >> One of the problems I'm having is with the sliders and wheels. Today
> > >> I turned it on and saw "error 13," and the user manual suggests that
> > >> these may be the ADC0820 or the sample and hold ground. (Wow, don't
> > >> you miss this kind of info in a user manual?)
> > >>
> > >> Another project is the key bushings. Has anyone done this
> > >> themselves? It will cost me $350 for a piano tuner to do it, but
> > >> probably $150 in parts and tools to even attempt myself.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks for your help.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > To QUIT KurzList, send a *blank* message to
kurzlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > It will take from 24 to 48 hours for Yahoo!Groups to cancel you.Yahoo!
Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

What occurs is only on the piano, rhodes, and clavinet type sounds, not the
organs or other instuments that I'm aware of. I will have a touch of reverb
programmed for the patch which can be in the internal bank, or in the midi setup
user bank. While playing, the sound suddenly becomes drenched with reverb as if
coming from a cave or well. Sometimes I can do a quick patch switch back and
forth and the sound will return to normal, sometimes not. I have rebooted the
instrument with the same result. I have tried cleaning the reverb slider (last
one on the right)to no effect and suppose I will backup the user bank to Sonar
and reinstall the OS4 (pain in the butt). I was wondering if anyone had a
thought or experience with this.

Many thanks!

Pops

Just a guess, but it's probably your USB/MIDI setup. The kurzweil might identify
itself via MIDI, but USB does not understand MIDI - it is not plug and play. You
should have some sort of driver for USB/MIDI - make sure it's configured to
send/receive on the correct port.

I use a Mac, but there should be a MIDI diagnostic tool similar to MIDI Monitor
for a PC (maybe MIDI OX) that will allow you to see MIDI I/O data on your laptop
including channels, ports, note on/off, velocity, etc.

Once you see data to and from your laptop/kurz, you should be able to set up
reason to work.

--- On Fri, 3/30/12, glez.moises <glez.moises@...> wrote:

From: glez.moises <glez.moises@...>
Subject: [KL] KURZWEIL PC2X
To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, March 30, 2012, 6:29 PM
















 









       I have conected KURZWEIL PC2X to PC but,... PC can not detect Keyboard...



I have a



Laptop DELL D630,



2.5 Ghz Processor speed,



4GB Memory



I have Reason 4 Software



I have a USB to MIDI Cable.



I do not know the problem...



Can you help me?....



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Download midi ox and check if the USB cable is listed as a midi interface





On 31 Mar 2012, at 00:14, "glez.moises" <glez.moises@...> wrote:

> I have conected KURZWEIL PC2X to PC but,... PC can not detect Keyboard...
>
> I have a
>
> Laptop DELL D630,
>
> 2.5 Ghz Processor speed,
>
> 4GB Memory
>
> I have Reason 4 Software
>
> I have a USB to MIDI Cable.
>
> I do not know the problem...
>
> Can you help me?....
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

NO......... cable is not listed as a MIDI interface.

when I plug cable to PC, cable is recognized correctly.

Computer can send information.... but can not receive information from PC2X.

.... I do not why.... driver is correctly installed...



I have conected another keyboard via USB.... and MIDI comunication is great !!!

I can connect via midi with PC2X with KORG N264 and MIDI Transmission and
Reception is very fine....

Problem is with USB to MIDI cable interface.

I am not sure.....






CC: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
From: target9@...
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 19:42:49 +0100
Subject: Re: [KL] KURZWEIL PC2X






Download midi ox and check if the USB cable is listed as a midi interface





On 31 Mar 2012, at 00:14, "glez.moises" <glez.moises@...> wrote:

> I have conected KURZWEIL PC2X to PC but,... PC can not detect Keyboard...
>
> I have a
>
> Laptop DELL D630,
>
> 2.5 Ghz Processor speed,
>
> 4GB Memory
>
> I have Reason 4 Software
>
> I have a USB to MIDI Cable.
>
> I do not know the problem...
>
> Can you help me?....
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Check midi transmit and receive channel set up





On 5 Apr 2012, at 19:51, "MOISES FERNANDO GONZALEZ SANTILLANES"
<glez.moises@...> wrote:

>
>
>
>
> NO......... cable is not listed as a MIDI interface.
>
> when I plug cable to PC, cable is recognized correctly.
>
> Computer can send information.... but can not receive information from PC2X.
>
> .... I do not why.... driver is correctly installed...
>
>
>
> I have conected another keyboard via USB.... and MIDI comunication is great
!!!
>
> I can connect via midi with PC2X with KORG N264 and MIDI Transmission and
Reception is very fine....
>
> Problem is with USB to MIDI cable interface.
>
> I am not sure.....
>
>
>
>
>
>
> CC: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
> From: target9@...
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 19:42:49 +0100
> Subject: Re: [KL] KURZWEIL PC2X
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Download midi ox and check if the USB cable is listed as a midi interface
>
>
>
>
>
> On 31 Mar 2012, at 00:14, "glez.moises" <glez.moises@...> wrote:
>
>> I have conected KURZWEIL PC2X to PC but,... PC can not detect Keyboard...
>>
>> I have a
>>
>> Laptop DELL D630,
>>
>> 2.5 Ghz Processor speed,
>>
>> 4GB Memory
>>
>> I have Reason 4 Software
>>
>> I have a USB to MIDI Cable.
>>
>> I do not know the problem...
>>
>> Can you help me?....
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To QUIT KurzList, send a *blank* message to
kurzlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> It will take from 24 to 48 hours for Yahoo!Groups to cancel you.Yahoo! Groups
Links
>
>
>

**********************************************************************
**********************************************************************

I have SOLVED MIDI connection. on kurzweil PC2X.

I am using next to upgrade to 4.00 Version :

1.- Laptop with XP, 4GB RAM, 2.4 GHz Processor Speed.

2.- Tascam US-122  USB MIDI Interface.

3.- MIDI cables.

4.- Windows media Player.


UPGRADE PROCESS from 3.10 to 4.00 version was completed...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


**********************************************************************
**********************************************************************


I am using REASON 5  Software with Tascam US-122 USB MIDI INTERFACE to play
Sounds form another keyboards.... WORKING VERY FINE.

Right now, I am looking for more files for Reason 5....... I hope found more
sounds........................



**********************************************************************
**********************************************************************

Thanks all for your great support.

God Bless You.





To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
From: woodman1200@...
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 11:04:00 -0700
Subject: Re: [KL] KURZWEIL PC2X






Just a guess, but it's probably your USB/MIDI setup. The kurzweil might identify
itself via MIDI, but USB does not understand MIDI - it is not plug and play. You
should have some sort of driver for USB/MIDI - make sure it's configured to
send/receive on the correct port.

I use a Mac, but there should be a MIDI diagnostic tool similar to MIDI Monitor
for a PC (maybe MIDI OX) that will allow you to see MIDI I/O data on your laptop
including channels, ports, note on/off, velocity, etc.

Once you see data to and from your laptop/kurz, you should be able to set up
reason to work.

--- On Fri, 3/30/12, glez.moises <glez.moises@...> wrote:

From: glez.moises <glez.moises@...>
Subject: [KL] KURZWEIL PC2X
To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, March 30, 2012, 6:29 PM



I have conected KURZWEIL PC2X to PC but,... PC can not detect Keyboard...

I have a

Laptop DELL D630,

2.5 Ghz Processor speed,

4GB Memory

I have Reason 4 Software

I have a USB to MIDI Cable.

I do not know the problem...

Can you help me?....

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Kurzweil people!  I was a happy K2 user for many years.  I'm sorry I got
rid of my K2500, it did some great things, especially with KDFX.

Anyway, I am in a position where I need to revive an old project that was done
using my K2500.  I have the sequences (done in logic), and can convert the
patches and sample data via CD extract, but what I am missing is the multi/setup
information, namely, what patch was selected on each channel.

I'm wondering if there is any K2500 owner who would be willing to load up my K25
files (there might be 4 or 5), and send me back that info.  I would be prepared
to compensate for the job.

Thanks!

Darcy

My long-awaited DMTi has arrived after some weeks in airplanes, customs and post
office vans. The excellent purchase price has been augmented by an additional
75% shipping and a further 50% VAT, as thqat is due on the total cost rather
than the value of the item. $40 on an $80 item.
The item of course is made in Korea, made sales tax on entry to the US and now
the UK has its share.
Economics is fascinating or is it just me?
It has arrived with no link cable. I had thought I could make one, but after
looking at the info in the manual, realize I don't have any stuff like that
lying around. 15pin compact Dsub and chokes and small caps, suitable cable,
dunno where that might be, I'm all packed up and moving into storage.
Can anybody advise of a source for one of these link cables, a 15metre  one
would be best for the future, the interface won't sit comfortably anywhere near
a keyboard.

Another question (for the all knowing Roger possibly).
This unit I just got has a serial number of 5.
Not recent then. Do I have issues of software revision to address?

It claims the power input can be in a number of ranges and quotes 6? ranges from
100volts to 250plus.
This implies there are voltage tappings, like the K2000 has.
I looked inside and just see a switch mode supply, no jumpers, links, moveable
fuses or anything of that nature.
My question is, does that mean I have a 110 only unit, or were there auto
ranging switch mode supplies back whenever this was made?

Obviously without a link cable and with the studio in boxes, there's no rush,
but I'd like to know, as I'm going to need to try it out soon, and less
importantly so I can complete the transaction by leaving feedback.

My SP88 had a loud key and a dead key. I took it apart and cleaned everything
that could be cleaned, and now I have two loud keys (different from the first)
and the dead key is still dead. Anyone have any pointers?

Hi

Last Wednesday a Chevy Tahoe was impacted on the Wall Church. Then my PC2X was
broken and Drum set..... all musical instruments.

I need keys and parts for my keyboard.

Some body can help me?

Thanks.

>
> Last Wednesday a Chevy Tahoe was impacted on the Wall Church. Then my PC2X
> was broken and Drum set..... all musical instruments.
>
> I need keys and parts for my keyboard.
>
> Some body can help me?


The keybed is a standard unit made by Fatar.  Your best source of spares
depends on where in the world you live.  Here in the UK I get excellent
service from Korg UK - they use the same keybed in one of their stage pianos
- for things like contact strips and key tops.  Phone the service
department, talk to a very helpful technician, give your credit card number.
Parts by return of post, at very moderate cost.

>
> My SP88 had a loud key and a dead key. I took it apart and cleaned
> everything that could be cleaned, and now I have two loud keys (different
> from the first) and the dead key is still dead. Anyone have any pointers?


You discovered how the key contacts work then - those rubber strips with two
sets of contacts bridging a circuit board?

Before taking it to pieces again, order a new set of contact strips.  They
aren't expensive, and are a standard part used by many brands of keyboard.
A bit of crud under the contacts MAY be the problem.  But the "cup" part of
the rubber strip can also collapse, or a contact fail in another way.
Replacement of the strips is the only answer.  Do them all - they're cheap
enough.

velocity issues .... (loud keys) are usually the result of a fried
contact pad. they come in strips of about an octave  .. pretty easy to
'do it yourself'.  the key that has no sound might be as a result of the
same .. but could also be electrical / rather than mechanical ... if you
order and replace the contact strip, take a look and see if there are
any obvious signs RE. no sound on that key ... broken wires, solder etc.
jjk

Do you have a Website?  Please let me know...

Thanks.




To: KurzList@yahoogroups.com
From: lp@...
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 17:19:45 +0100
Subject: RE: [KL] KEYS FOR KURZWEIL PC2X






>
> Last Wednesday a Chevy Tahoe was impacted on the Wall Church. Then my PC2X
> was broken and Drum set..... all musical instruments.
>
> I need keys and parts for my keyboard.
>
> Some body can help me?

The keybed is a standard unit made by Fatar. Your best source of spares
depends on where in the world you live. Here in the UK I get excellent
service from Korg UK - they use the same keybed in one of their stage pianos
- for things like contact strips and key tops. Phone the service
department, talk to a very helpful technician, give your credit card number.
Parts by return of post, at very moderate cost.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

Loud keys: likely the contacts need further cleaning or the back contact is worn
out on the strip or on the PCBoard.  Depending on the position of the loud keys,
if they are next to each other and on the same rubber membrane strip, and it is
a 2 key contact strip only (some keybed models have this), then the strip is
inserted backwards.

Dead key: cracked or open circuit for that key on the PCBoard; or badly worn
contacts, or broken plastic plunger on the key, or bent key frame (unlikely).
Check the PCBoard carefully with a magnifier, and flex the board a little to see
if you can spot the crack; use an ohm-meter to check continuity.

In all cases, do not use highly abrasive tools on the surface of the contacts
(conductive dot in the rubber nipple and conductive area on the PCB), it may
definitely spoil the carbon contact areas!

Hope this helps :)

John






--- In KurzList@yahoogroups.com, "spencergellsworth" <spencergellsworth@...>
wrote:
>
> My SP88 had a loud key and a dead key. I took it apart and cleaned everything
that could be cleaned, and now I have two loud keys (different from the first)
and the dead key is still dead. Anyone have any pointers?
>

Thanks! So (since I'm a beginner) should I go find the entire contact pad,
or just buy a new set of the little gray rubber bits?

--
Spencer Ellsworth

http://spencerellsworth.blogspot.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]