Interesting.
 
I saw this reciently thought it might be useful in miding polysix but it looks
like it is not there yet.
 
thanks
 
--john

--- On Fri, 11/20/09, Paul <pchorostecki@...> wrote:


From: Paul <pchorostecki@...>
Subject: [PolySix] Re: This looks interesting for Midi for Polysix
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 20, 2009, 11:37 AM


 



I went to the forums for this device via a link on the site you posted. There is
a topic about the Mono/Poly there:

http://forum. highlyliquid. com/showthread. php?s=2aa7dafad1 4c85f998cc2bf0ee
000fef&t= 45

It seems that he is having some problems getting it to work properly with that
keyboard, which from what I understand is similar to the Polysix?

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups .com, Bas te Braak <bastebraak@ ...> wrote:
>
>
> Is this one compatible with the Polysix? it's not in the list yet.
>
>
>
> Still thinking of getting the one from the Chech website.
>
>
>
>
>
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups .com
> > From: john_terhorst@ ...
> > Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 10:36:21 -0800
> > Subject: [PolySix] This looks interesting for Midi for Polysix
> >
> > This company is selling a universal midi retrofit unit.
> >
> > Looks interesting!
> >
> > http://highlyliquid .com/kits/ umr/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> >
> > PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc. umu.se/~amber/ Poly6Yahoo! Groups
Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt. com/GBL/go/ 177141665/ direct/01/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I went to the forums for this device via a link on the site you posted. There is
a topic about the Mono/Poly there:

http://forum.highlyliquid.com/showthread.php?s=2aa7dafad14c85f998cc2bf0ee000fef&\
t=45

It seems that he is having some problems getting it to work properly with that
keyboard, which from what I understand is similar to the Polysix?



--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Bas te Braak <bastebraak@...> wrote:
>
>
> Is this one compatible with the Polysix? it's not in the list yet.
>
>
>
> Still thinking of getting the one from the Chech website.
>
>
>
>
>
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> > From: john_terhorst@...
> > Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 10:36:21 -0800
> > Subject: [PolySix] This looks interesting for Midi for Polysix
> >
> > This company is selling a universal midi retrofit unit.
> >
> > Looks interesting!
> >
> > http://highlyliquid.com/kits/umr/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups
Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Is this one compatible with the Polysix? it's not in the list yet.



Still thinking of getting the one from the Chech website.





> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> From: john_terhorst@...
> Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 10:36:21 -0800
> Subject: [PolySix] This looks interesting for Midi for Polysix
>
> This company is selling a universal midi retrofit unit.
>
> Looks interesting!
>
> http://highlyliquid.com/kits/umr/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This company is selling a universal midi retrofit unit.
 
Looks interesting!
 
http://highlyliquid.com/kits/umr/
 
 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Andy,

unfortunately, I have no Oscilloscope. Yesterday I have developed the blue Varta
battery and have soldered a substitute.
That took me 5 minutes. I am surprised that the programmes are still stored. Now
the Polysix needs approx. 45 minutes until it sounds well. I will keep it powerd
on for one day, so that the new accumulator loads.
On the week-end I make one more test and tell you more.

Thank you already for the help

Many greetings

Oliver

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Jury" <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Oliver,
>
>
>
> Do you have or know someone who owns an oscilloscope? I have just downloaded
> your files and listened to them. As an example I picked the 'cold' file and
> the '180 minute' file. The third phrase into the file you play a nice saw
> tooth waveform which is very clean when examined closely. However, the cold
> version of the same waveform is superimposed with some terrible noise. When
> you run the noise through a spectrum analyser you can see the contents have
> equal amplitude throughout the audible range of frequencies. My initial
> thoughts were that you might have a problem with the power supply, but you
> would then either get audible hum or harmonic noise at either 50/60Hz
> intervals down the spectrum. This noise looks and sounds like the kind of
> racket generated by digital circuits when they are not decoupled properly.
> If you can lay your hand on a scope attach it to the +5V rail on the KLM-367
> and see how clean the supply is when cold. Then check the coupling
> electrolytics. Others in the group might have their own ideas, but like has
> been said, before you do anything else, de-solder the memory backup battery
> before it leaks!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> oseite
> Sent: 15 November 2009 16:24
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
>
>
>
>
>
> Andy,
>
> you find the file "warming up Polysix.zip" in the "Files" folder.
> I recorded some different programs.
>
> cheers
>
> Oliver
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Andrew
> Jury" <andy@> wrote:
> >
> > Oliver,
> >
> >
> >
> > When you say it 'sounds bad' what do you mean? Out of tune, dysfunctional,
> > distorted, etc? It is common for a 'board of this vintage to take around
> 30
> > minutes to 'warm up', but 4 hours? Could be lots of things wrong I can
> think
> > of. If you can describe how the instrument sounds after say 15 minutes on
> > from cold? Perhaps even make a recording and post it. That would be a
> great
> > help!
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
> >
> > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> Behalf Of
> > oseite
> > Sent: 11 November 2009 22:08
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I think the battery is allright. It looks fine and the saved sounds work
> > (after warming up - 4 hours).
> > Any other ideas?
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jim"
> > <jbgange@> wrote:
> > >
> > > First open it up and check for battery leakage.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: oseite
> > > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
> > > Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now,
> I
> > have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to
> > "warm up" otherwise the sound is bad.
> > > How can I repair it?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Oliver
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Mack,



Do you own or can you lay your hands on a logic probe or oscilloscope? You
will find your life so much easier of you have such a thing to hand. If you
have place the probe between ground and pin 1 of IC4 on the KLM 371. As you
press '1' the line should drop from a logic 1 to a 0. Check pin 14, press
button '2'. The same should happen and so on. If not check the inhibit and
address lines for data. No data? Check the connections around CN10. Still no
data? Check once again the address lines D00-D07 and the programmed i/o bus
P20 to P27 for the presence of data. I suspect you still have an issue
somewhere on the 367. I have fixed dozens of these and each one make you
want to bang your head against the wall!!



Cheers,

Andy



From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Justin Mammarella
Sent: 18 November 2009 03:41
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: Battery problems





I had to replace IC 25 and IC 23 to get my polsyix working. Erratic
light movement, noise on outputs, erratic control response. Turned
out there were some bad traces under those chips that I failed to
find even though I was confident
that I had checked everything multiple times.

On 18/11/2009, at 1:51 PM, mack_sass wrote:

> Firstly, I got my polysix off craigslist in its current, broken
> state, with little history about use or previous damage.
>
> The problems from the get go are: erratic and seemingly
> unresponsive control buttons, an no sound whatsoever when pressing
> keys (manual mode button is also unresponsive). when I press a
> control button the lights do not toggle (manual mode doesn't seem
> to do anything). There is no sound from the output jack, and a bit
> of static from the phones (I traced this around but couldn't find
> the source).
>
> I feel very confident in the repairs I have done to the CPU board,
> and have checked and rechecked all traces on a component to
> component level. I have replaces IC30 and 31 as well as the
> resistor array there...The other components visually appear
> fine...I dont really want to start replacing other parts if I don't
> have to.
>
> my first thoughts were power problems, but the power appears to be
> fine on all boards where I have checked.
>
> As per your suggestion I looked for diodes lighting up on the sound
> board, and found none to light up, perhaps I was testing wrong? Is
> there another easy way to check the voice chips?
>
> Any other easy checks that I could do to perhaps narrow down the
> search?
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Paul T
<sharpfish@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Did you try putting it in manual mode and tweaking the controls?
> (I'd assume yes of course after such a time). Can you hear any of
> the effects coming out of the output? check both phones out and
> main out? does it appear to do anything to the sound even if minor
> while switching effects or through the sound bank (even if the
> banks aren't working right).
> >
> > Obviously it could be hard to diagnose your sound output, whether
> it's completely dead, while the rest of the synth is in the usual
> 'battery broken state'. If you knew someone else with a polysix you
> could borrow their main (repaired/ok) middle PCB board, swap it in
> and see if you have any sound.
> >
> > The other thing could be dead voice chips on the right board. Do
> the diodes light up on that board (cycling through the voices) as
> you press a key repeatedly? You could/should check the voltage/
> continuity from the output jacks (inside) and trace them back to
> the components to make sure they are connected ok.
> >
> > And yes the CPU can be damaged by the leak, I think it's a bit
> rarer but depends on how bad and how far the corrosion went. Have
> you taken it out, checked the pins for damage? reseat it and try
> again? and if everything is still acting erratically of course
> triple check all your repairs for shorts (sorry that sounds
> obvious). Also check the volume pot is working (with a multimeter).
> >
> > maybe someone else will know more specifically about 'no sound'
> but it sounds to me like a number of issues caused from the damaged
> board that still need repairing and a thorough check of the audio
> path from the boards to the output.
> >
> >
> >
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> > From: mack_sass@...
> > Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:03:12 +0000
> > Subject: [PolySix] Battery problems
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the
> past few months...replacing parts etc.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all.
> In addition to this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights
> are erratically on or off. I suspect possible problems with the
> 8048 CPU. I have heard conflicting reports on this, but with batter
> leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard SOMETHING when pressing keys?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > Add your Gmail and Yahoo! Mail email accounts into Hotmail - it's
> easy
> > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394592/direct/01/
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I had to replace IC 25 and IC 23 to get my polsyix working. Erratic
light movement, noise on outputs, erratic control response. Turned
out there were some bad traces under those chips that I failed to
find even though I was confident
that I had checked everything multiple times.


On 18/11/2009, at 1:51 PM, mack_sass wrote:

> Firstly, I got my polysix off craigslist in its current, broken
> state, with little history about use or previous damage.
>
> The problems from the get go are: erratic and seemingly
> unresponsive control buttons, an no sound whatsoever when pressing
> keys (manual mode button is also unresponsive). when I press a
> control button the lights do not toggle (manual mode doesn't seem
> to do anything). There is no sound from the output jack, and a bit
> of static from the phones (I traced this around but couldn't find
> the source).
>
> I feel very confident in the repairs I have done to the CPU board,
> and have checked and rechecked all traces on a component to
> component level. I have replaces IC30 and 31 as well as the
> resistor array there...The other components visually appear
> fine...I dont really want to start replacing other parts if I don't
> have to.
>
> my first thoughts were power problems, but the power appears to be
> fine on all boards where I have checked.
>
> As per your suggestion I looked for diodes lighting up on the sound
> board, and found none to light up, perhaps I was testing wrong? Is
> there another easy way to check the voice chips?
>
> Any other easy checks that I could do to perhaps narrow down the
> search?
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Paul T <sharpfish@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Did you try putting it in manual mode and tweaking the controls?
> (I'd assume yes of course after such a time). Can you hear any of
> the effects coming out of the output? check both phones out and
> main out? does it appear to do anything to the sound even if minor
> while switching effects or through the sound bank (even if the
> banks aren't working right).
> >
> > Obviously it could be hard to diagnose your sound output, whether
> it's completely dead, while the rest of the synth is in the usual
> 'battery broken state'. If you knew someone else with a polysix you
> could borrow their main (repaired/ok) middle PCB board, swap it in
> and see if you have any sound.
> >
> > The other thing could be dead voice chips on the right board. Do
> the diodes light up on that board (cycling through the voices) as
> you press a key repeatedly? You could/should check the voltage/
> continuity from the output jacks (inside) and trace them back to
> the components to make sure they are connected ok.
> >
> > And yes the CPU can be damaged by the leak, I think it's a bit
> rarer but depends on how bad and how far the corrosion went. Have
> you taken it out, checked the pins for damage? reseat it and try
> again? and if everything is still acting erratically of course
> triple check all your repairs for shorts (sorry that sounds
> obvious). Also check the volume pot is working (with a multimeter).
> >
> > maybe someone else will know more specifically about 'no sound'
> but it sounds to me like a number of issues caused from the damaged
> board that still need repairing and a thorough check of the audio
> path from the boards to the output.
> >
> >
> >
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> > From: mack_sass@...
> > Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:03:12 +0000
> > Subject: [PolySix] Battery problems
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the
> past few months...replacing parts etc.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all.
> In addition to this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights
> are erratically on or off. I suspect possible problems with the
> 8048 CPU. I have heard conflicting reports on this, but with batter
> leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard SOMETHING when pressing keys?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > Add your Gmail and Yahoo! Mail email accounts into Hotmail - it's
> easy
> > http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394592/direct/01/
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

well, let's see. So when you press keys the voice channels don't cycle through
(in poly mode) from left to right - shown by the diodes (I think lower down -
hidden by the keyboard, I'll assume you had the keyboard out to see all the
board). They should light up so you can see easily if all voice chips/channels
are ok.
  I don't know whether the diodes still light even if the infamous VCF chips are
dead or removed, I never tested with mine, but if none of them are lighting up
then is the keyboard actually putting it's signal through to the voice board?.
where the keyboard plugs into the circuit board some ICs/components that process
the key signals - may be worth checking that area is working properly. Of course
that won't be why the control panel isn't working correctly so it seems the
problem is something else and I guess you will have to try a CPU swap to rule it
out (Maybe eprom if do-able - not sure).
sorry I can't be of any actual help and am suggesting things you already know.
:(

.... (mildly off-topic)I have a problem with my own polysix atm, nothing too
severe (one voice is way out of tune by a semitone and the pots can't drag it
into line, so I suspect some faulty components - it's not the chips as I swapped
them between channels and it was the same channel - so perhaps bad
caps/resistor)....


To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
From: mack_sass@...
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 02:51:03 +0000
Subject: [PolySix] Re: Battery problems




























       Firstly, I got my polysix off craigslist in its current, broken state,
with little history about use or previous damage.



The problems from the get go are: erratic and seemingly unresponsive control
buttons, an no sound whatsoever when pressing keys (manual mode button is also
unresponsive).  when I press a control button the lights do not toggle (manual
mode doesn't seem to do anything).  There is no sound from the output jack, and
a bit of static from the phones (I traced this around but couldn't find the
source).



I feel very confident in the repairs I have done to the CPU board, and have
checked and rechecked all traces on a component to component level. I have
replaces IC30 and 31 as well as the resistor array there...The other components
visually appear fine...I dont really want to start replacing other parts if I
don't have to.



my first thoughts were power problems, but the power appears to be fine on all
boards where I have checked.



As per your suggestion I looked for diodes lighting up on the sound board, and
found none to light up, perhaps I was testing wrong?  Is there another easy way
to check the voice chips?



Any other easy checks that I could do to perhaps narrow down the search?



--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Paul T <sharpfish@...> wrote:

>

>

>

> Did you try putting it in manual mode and tweaking the controls? (I'd assume
yes of course after such a time). Can you hear any of the effects coming out of
the output? check both phones out and main out? does it appear to do anything to
the sound even if minor while switching effects or through the sound bank (even
if the banks aren't working right).

>

> Obviously it could be hard to diagnose your sound output, whether it's
completely dead, while the rest of the synth is in the usual 'battery broken
state'. If you knew someone else with a polysix you could borrow their main
(repaired/ok) middle PCB board, swap it in and see if you have any sound.

>

> The other thing could be dead voice chips on the right board. Do the diodes
light up on that board (cycling through the voices) as you press a key
repeatedly? You could/should check the voltage/continuity from the output jacks
(inside) and trace them back to the components to make sure they are connected
ok.

>

> And yes the CPU can be damaged by the leak, I think it's a bit rarer but
depends on how bad and how far the corrosion went. Have you taken it out,
checked the pins for damage? reseat it and try again? and if everything is still
acting erratically of course triple check all your repairs for shorts (sorry
that sounds obvious). Also check the volume pot is working (with a multimeter).

>

> maybe someone else will know more specifically about 'no sound' but it sounds
to me like a number of issues caused from the damaged board that still need
repairing and a thorough check of the audio path from the boards to the output.

>

>

>

> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com

> From: mack_sass@...

> Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:03:12 +0000

> Subject: [PolySix] Battery problems

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>       I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the past
few months...replacing parts etc.

>

>

>

> I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all.  In addition
to this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights are erratically on or off.
I suspect possible problems with the 8048 CPU.  I have heard conflicting reports
on this, but with batter leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard SOMETHING when
pressing keys?

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> __________________________________________________________

> Add your Gmail and Yahoo! Mail email accounts into Hotmail - it's easy

> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394592/direct/01/

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>


















_________________________________________________________________
Use Hotmail to send and receive mail from your different email accounts
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394592/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Firstly, I got my polysix off craigslist in its current, broken state, with
little history about use or previous damage.

The problems from the get go are: erratic and seemingly unresponsive control
buttons, an no sound whatsoever when pressing keys (manual mode button is also
unresponsive).  when I press a control button the lights do not toggle (manual
mode doesn't seem to do anything).  There is no sound from the output jack, and
a bit of static from the phones (I traced this around but couldn't find the
source).

I feel very confident in the repairs I have done to the CPU board, and have
checked and rechecked all traces on a component to component level. I have
replaces IC30 and 31 as well as the resistor array there...The other components
visually appear fine...I dont really want to start replacing other parts if I
don't have to.

my first thoughts were power problems, but the power appears to be fine on all
boards where I have checked.

As per your suggestion I looked for diodes lighting up on the sound board, and
found none to light up, perhaps I was testing wrong?  Is there another easy way
to check the voice chips?

Any other easy checks that I could do to perhaps narrow down the search?

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Paul T <sharpfish@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Did you try putting it in manual mode and tweaking the controls? (I'd assume
yes of course after such a time). Can you hear any of the effects coming out of
the output? check both phones out and main out? does it appear to do anything to
the sound even if minor while switching effects or through the sound bank (even
if the banks aren't working right).
>
> Obviously it could be hard to diagnose your sound output, whether it's
completely dead, while the rest of the synth is in the usual 'battery broken
state'. If you knew someone else with a polysix you could borrow their main
(repaired/ok) middle PCB board, swap it in and see if you have any sound.
>
> The other thing could be dead voice chips on the right board. Do the diodes
light up on that board (cycling through the voices) as you press a key
repeatedly? You could/should check the voltage/continuity from the output jacks
(inside) and trace them back to the components to make sure they are connected
ok.
>
> And yes the CPU can be damaged by the leak, I think it's a bit rarer but
depends on how bad and how far the corrosion went. Have you taken it out,
checked the pins for damage? reseat it and try again? and if everything is still
acting erratically of course triple check all your repairs for shorts (sorry
that sounds obvious). Also check the volume pot is working (with a multimeter).
>
> maybe someone else will know more specifically about 'no sound' but it sounds
to me like a number of issues caused from the damaged board that still need
repairing and a thorough check of the audio path from the boards to the output.
>
>
>
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> From: mack_sass@...
> Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:03:12 +0000
> Subject: [PolySix] Battery problems
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the past
few months...replacing parts etc.
>
>
>
> I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all.  In addition
to this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights are erratically on or off.
I suspect possible problems with the 8048 CPU.  I have heard conflicting reports
on this, but with batter leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard SOMETHING when
pressing keys?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add your Gmail and Yahoo! Mail email accounts into Hotmail - it's easy
> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394592/direct/01/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Thanks for the tip on this, I checked all the related traces from D00-D07, and
they check out fine.  The CPU visually appears to be ok, and I have checked all
traces from the CPU (directly with it plugged into the socket) to any component.

Also, I'm replying to paul's post with more details on my problem.

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Jury" <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> Might I suggest, before you do anything else, check the continuity of the
> tracks that form data bus D00-D07. Pay particular attention to the area
> around IC30/31, especially if you have had a battery leak. In my experience,
> if you think you might have a problem with the CPU, first remove it and
> replace the 40 pin socket making sure that the underside is free from
> battery electrolyte. Solder in a new socket and monitor the i/o bus P20-P27
> for data activity with either a logic probe or scope. I would be surprised
> if the CPU has failed, however, would not be surprised if you still have a
> track disconnection!
>
>
>
> Let us know how you get on....
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> mack_sass
> Sent: 14 November 2009 01:03
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Battery problems
>
>
>
>
>
> I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the past few
> months...replacing parts etc.
>
> I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all. In addition
> to this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights are erratically on or
> off. I suspect possible problems with the 8048 CPU. I have heard conflicting
> reports on this, but with batter leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard
> SOMETHING when pressing keys?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi Paul,

   I watched your vid and it seems like your ADSR Env. is working properly. If
you want the patch to sound immediately upon pressing a key, you want the attack
set at 0. If you want the note to sound continuously while pressing a key, you
want the sustain at max. Generally, if you have the decay and sustain all the
way down you're not going to get much more that a short click. If you want the
note to continue after letting off a key, turn the release up. If you want to
reset a knob from a preset patch, crank it all the way max and then back to
zero-then experiment where you want it set. Yes, the EG Intensity and the filter
cutoff are intertwined. Check the manual under EG Intensity. Hope this helps.
Enjoy!

regards,

dizz

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <pchorostecki@...> wrote:
>
> Ive gotten the video up on youtube:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYR7aOycOQ8
>
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <pchorostecki@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the quick replies!
> >
> > After reading the manual I got more insight as to how tweaking works for
this synth. I found out that while tweaking knobs it takes extreme movements to
over-right the original settings on a patch.
> >
> > With this in mind I started to play with the ADSR and it seems that they are
actually working quite well. The attack and decay may need  a tweak as the range
in which they work in seems a little off. It seems like between 0-4 it does
little to the sound then between 4-7 it changes dramatically and then past 7 it
dies off again. Not sure if thats how its supposed to be, Ill have the video
ready in a little bit to show what I mean. The Sustain and Release seem to work
fine after using the method mentioned in the manual to reset their state.
> >
> > Also, I did the voltage test on IC7, its funny because as I was doing it the
EG started to work. It does read from -5 to +5 on pin one. As I was doing the
test I noticed that it was changing the sound. I looked more into it and I guess
I just didnt play with it enough because the cutoff setting seems to determine
how well this knob works. Once I moved the cutoff around the EG started to make
a bigger difference.
> >
> > So I guess this problem was just me not knowing the basic function of this
synth.
> >
> > I did record a video of me tweaking the ADSR and EG, Ill get that edited and
posted later tonight.
> >
> > Thanks again!
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Jury" <andy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Paul,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Before you do anything else make sure that pin 1 of IC7 swings between -5v
> > > and  +5v (or thereabouts) as you turn the EG knob clockwise.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Andy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of
> > > Paul
> > > Sent: 11 November 2009 00:02
> > > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [PolySix] A few questions about my new Poly-six
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I have recently acquired a Korg Polysix and am now in the process of
fixing
> > > it up.
> > >
> > > Luckily the battery problem was already done by the previous owner, all
the
> > > broken traces were replaced with wires and a new battery was fitted.
> > >
> > > The synth plays alright, I already took apart the key contacts and cleaned
> > > them but will have to go back and do it again because a few keys still
dont
> > > work all the time.
> > >
> > > I also have to replace 13 of the 19 push buttons for patches and tape
> > > memory, I have already ordered those.
> > >
> > > My question is about calibration. Ive tuned a much simpler Roland JX-8P in
> > > the past, which only had a few very simple variable resistors and took a
few
> > > minutes. Ive Looked over the calibration procedure for this synth and it
> > > seems much harder.
> > >
> > > The reason I want to do the calibration in the first place is because Ive
> > > noticed that a few of the functions on the synth dont work correctly.
> > >
> > > The EG intensity knob doesnt change the sound at all, while all 4 EG knobs
> > > (ADSR) work in a way that I believe is wrong. I was going to describe it
> > > here but gave up as they just seem really random. I think the best way for
> > > me to describe them would be to make a video, which I will do later.
> > >
> > > Ive tested all the 10k pots on that board with a multimeter and they seems
> > > to all function the same: They start at 1.09k when they are all the way to
> > > one end and move up to about 2.9k somewhere in the middle and then back
down
> > > to 0 on the other side of rotation.
> > >
> > > I should also mention that ive loaded a bank of stock presets and they
dont
> > > seem to function correct either. I had to turn the ADSR knobs to random
> > > positions it seems to get any sound out of the few patches I tried.
> > >
> > > I did notice that there are adjustments listed for all the different EG
> > > functions in the instructions. Could I just skip to those tests or should
I
> > > follow the full guide step by step?
> > >
> > > I have a multimeter and a PC oscilloscope. Ive also made the 56k Ohm
jumper
> > > that is talked about in the calibration instructions.
> > >
> > > Ill make a video of the problem and post it on youtube later tonight or
> > > tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Any help would be much appreciated!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

Hi Oliver,



Do you have or know someone who owns an oscilloscope? I have just downloaded
your files and listened to them. As an example I picked the 'cold' file and
the '180 minute' file. The third phrase into the file you play a nice saw
tooth waveform which is very clean when examined closely. However, the cold
version of the same waveform is superimposed with some terrible noise. When
you run the noise through a spectrum analyser you can see the contents have
equal amplitude throughout the audible range of frequencies. My initial
thoughts were that you might have a problem with the power supply, but you
would then either get audible hum or harmonic noise at either 50/60Hz
intervals down the spectrum. This noise looks and sounds like the kind of
racket generated by digital circuits when they are not decoupled properly.
If you can lay your hand on a scope attach it to the +5V rail on the KLM-367
and see how clean the supply is when cold. Then check the coupling
electrolytics. Others in the group might have their own ideas, but like has
been said, before you do anything else, de-solder the memory backup battery
before it leaks!



Cheers,

Andy



From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
oseite
Sent: 15 November 2009 16:24
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours





Andy,

you find the file "warming up Polysix.zip" in the "Files" folder.
I recorded some different programs.

cheers

Oliver

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Andrew
Jury" <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Oliver,
>
>
>
> When you say it 'sounds bad' what do you mean? Out of tune, dysfunctional,
> distorted, etc? It is common for a 'board of this vintage to take around
30
> minutes to 'warm up', but 4 hours? Could be lots of things wrong I can
think
> of. If you can describe how the instrument sounds after say 15 minutes on
> from cold? Perhaps even make a recording and post it. That would be a
great
> help!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
Behalf Of
> oseite
> Sent: 11 November 2009 22:08
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
>
>
>
>
>
> I think the battery is allright. It looks fine and the saved sounds work
> (after warming up - 4 hours).
> Any other ideas?
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jim"
> <jbgange@> wrote:
> >
> > First open it up and check for battery leakage.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: oseite
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
> > Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now,
I
> have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to
> "warm up" otherwise the sound is bad.
> > How can I repair it?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Oliver
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi!

Yes, my Polysix has the original blue Varta Ni-Cad battery.
I will change it next weekend.
I recorded some different programs. You find the file "warming up Polysix.zip"
in the "Files" folder.

Thanks

Oliver




--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Dave Garfield <daveogarf@...> wrote:
>
> Hi!
>
>
> If your Polysix still has the original big blue Varta Ni-Cad battery on the
main processor board, it NEEDS to be changed, ASAP.  Those batteries are Time
Bombs, waiting to corrode and spill nasty corrosive gunk all over the processor
board.  It often eats traces where the damage can't be readily seen, and can
even work its way onto the pins of nearby ICs and corrode them, too.
>  
> This is a rather common problem with synths of the early '80's, when Ni-Cad
batteries were the norm for memory backup, so this advice applies to most synths
of that vintage (EEWWW, there's that "V" word!).  Anyway, most of us would
Highly recommend changing that battery first.
>  
> Sorry, but as far as the long warm-up time goes, I don't have any ideas to
help you out.  Someone on this list should have some valuable suggestions,
though - we're a good bunch here!  ;-)
>  
> All the best,
> Dave Garfield
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: oseite <oseite@...>
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wed, November 11, 2009 3:07:51 PM
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
>
>  
> I think the battery is allright. It looks fine and the saved sounds work
(after warming up - 4 hours).
> Any other ideas?
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups .com, "Jim" <jbgange@ > wrote:
> >
> > First open it up and check for battery leakage.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: oseite
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups .com
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
> > Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now, I
have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to "warm
up" otherwise the sound is bad.
> > How can I repair it?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Oliver
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Andy,

you find the file "warming up Polysix.zip" in the "Files" folder.
I recorded some different programs.

cheers

Oliver



--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Jury" <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Oliver,
>
>
>
> When you say it 'sounds bad' what do you mean? Out of tune, dysfunctional,
> distorted, etc? It is common for a 'board of this vintage to take around 30
> minutes to 'warm up', but 4 hours? Could be lots of things wrong I can think
> of. If you can describe how the instrument sounds after say 15 minutes on
> from cold? Perhaps even make a recording and post it. That would be a great
> help!
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> oseite
> Sent: 11 November 2009 22:08
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
>
>
>
>
>
> I think the battery is allright. It looks fine and the saved sounds work
> (after warming up - 4 hours).
> Any other ideas?
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jim"
> <jbgange@> wrote:
> >
> > First open it up and check for battery leakage.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: oseite
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
> > Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now, I
> have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to
> "warm up" otherwise the sound is bad.
> > How can I repair it?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Oliver
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi,



Might I suggest, before you do anything else, check the continuity of the
tracks that form data bus D00-D07. Pay particular attention to the area
around IC30/31, especially if you have had a battery leak. In my experience,
if you think you might have a problem with the CPU, first remove it and
replace the 40 pin socket making sure that the underside is free from
battery electrolyte. Solder in a new socket and monitor the i/o bus P20-P27
for data activity with either a logic probe or scope. I would be surprised
if the CPU has failed, however, would not be surprised if you still have a
track disconnection!



Let us know how you get on....



Cheers,

Andy



From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
mack_sass
Sent: 14 November 2009 01:03
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PolySix] Battery problems





I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the past few
months...replacing parts etc.

I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all. In addition
to this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights are erratically on or
off. I suspect possible problems with the 8048 CPU. I have heard conflicting
reports on this, but with batter leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard
SOMETHING when pressing keys?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Did you try putting it in manual mode and tweaking the controls? (I'd assume yes
of course after such a time). Can you hear any of the effects coming out of the
output? check both phones out and main out? does it appear to do anything to the
sound even if minor while switching effects or through the sound bank (even if
the banks aren't working right).

Obviously it could be hard to diagnose your sound output, whether it's
completely dead, while the rest of the synth is in the usual 'battery broken
state'. If you knew someone else with a polysix you could borrow their main
(repaired/ok) middle PCB board, swap it in and see if you have any sound.

The other thing could be dead voice chips on the right board. Do the diodes
light up on that board (cycling through the voices) as you press a key
repeatedly? You could/should check the voltage/continuity from the output jacks
(inside) and trace them back to the components to make sure they are connected
ok.

And yes the CPU can be damaged by the leak, I think it's a bit rarer but depends
on how bad and how far the corrosion went. Have you taken it out, checked the
pins for damage? reseat it and try again? and if everything is still acting
erratically of course triple check all your repairs for shorts (sorry that
sounds obvious). Also check the volume pot is working (with a multimeter).

maybe someone else will know more specifically about 'no sound' but it sounds to
me like a number of issues caused from the damaged board that still need
repairing and a thorough check of the audio path from the boards to the output.



To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
From: mack_sass@...
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:03:12 +0000
Subject: [PolySix] Battery problems




























       I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the past few
months...replacing parts etc.



I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all.  In addition to
this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights are erratically on or off.  I
suspect possible problems with the 8048 CPU.  I have heard conflicting reports
on this, but with batter leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard SOMETHING when
pressing keys?


















_________________________________________________________________
Add your Gmail and Yahoo! Mail email accounts into Hotmail - it's easy
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394592/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have been working off and on at fixing my battery issue for the past few
months...replacing parts etc.

I have not been able to get ANY sound from the poly six at all.  In addition to
this, the controls are unresponsive and the lights are erratically on or off.  I
suspect possible problems with the 8048 CPU.  I have heard conflicting reports
on this, but with batter leak damage, shouldn't I expect to heard SOMETHING when
pressing keys?

Ive gotten the video up on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYR7aOycOQ8


--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <pchorostecki@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the quick replies!
>
> After reading the manual I got more insight as to how tweaking works for this
synth. I found out that while tweaking knobs it takes extreme movements to
over-right the original settings on a patch.
>
> With this in mind I started to play with the ADSR and it seems that they are
actually working quite well. The attack and decay may need  a tweak as the range
in which they work in seems a little off. It seems like between 0-4 it does
little to the sound then between 4-7 it changes dramatically and then past 7 it
dies off again. Not sure if thats how its supposed to be, Ill have the video
ready in a little bit to show what I mean. The Sustain and Release seem to work
fine after using the method mentioned in the manual to reset their state.
>
> Also, I did the voltage test on IC7, its funny because as I was doing it the
EG started to work. It does read from -5 to +5 on pin one. As I was doing the
test I noticed that it was changing the sound. I looked more into it and I guess
I just didnt play with it enough because the cutoff setting seems to determine
how well this knob works. Once I moved the cutoff around the EG started to make
a bigger difference.
>
> So I guess this problem was just me not knowing the basic function of this
synth.
>
> I did record a video of me tweaking the ADSR and EG, Ill get that edited and
posted later tonight.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Jury" <andy@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Paul,
> >
> >
> >
> > Before you do anything else make sure that pin 1 of IC7 swings between -5v
> > and  +5v (or thereabouts) as you turn the EG knob clockwise.
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
> >
> > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> > Paul
> > Sent: 11 November 2009 00:02
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [PolySix] A few questions about my new Poly-six
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I have recently acquired a Korg Polysix and am now in the process of fixing
> > it up.
> >
> > Luckily the battery problem was already done by the previous owner, all the
> > broken traces were replaced with wires and a new battery was fitted.
> >
> > The synth plays alright, I already took apart the key contacts and cleaned
> > them but will have to go back and do it again because a few keys still dont
> > work all the time.
> >
> > I also have to replace 13 of the 19 push buttons for patches and tape
> > memory, I have already ordered those.
> >
> > My question is about calibration. Ive tuned a much simpler Roland JX-8P in
> > the past, which only had a few very simple variable resistors and took a few
> > minutes. Ive Looked over the calibration procedure for this synth and it
> > seems much harder.
> >
> > The reason I want to do the calibration in the first place is because Ive
> > noticed that a few of the functions on the synth dont work correctly.
> >
> > The EG intensity knob doesnt change the sound at all, while all 4 EG knobs
> > (ADSR) work in a way that I believe is wrong. I was going to describe it
> > here but gave up as they just seem really random. I think the best way for
> > me to describe them would be to make a video, which I will do later.
> >
> > Ive tested all the 10k pots on that board with a multimeter and they seems
> > to all function the same: They start at 1.09k when they are all the way to
> > one end and move up to about 2.9k somewhere in the middle and then back down
> > to 0 on the other side of rotation.
> >
> > I should also mention that ive loaded a bank of stock presets and they dont
> > seem to function correct either. I had to turn the ADSR knobs to random
> > positions it seems to get any sound out of the few patches I tried.
> >
> > I did notice that there are adjustments listed for all the different EG
> > functions in the instructions. Could I just skip to those tests or should I
> > follow the full guide step by step?
> >
> > I have a multimeter and a PC oscilloscope. Ive also made the 56k Ohm jumper
> > that is talked about in the calibration instructions.
> >
> > Ill make a video of the problem and post it on youtube later tonight or
> > tomorrow.
> >
> > Any help would be much appreciated!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Hi!


If your Polysix still has the original big blue Varta Ni-Cad battery on the main
processor board, it NEEDS to be changed, ASAP.  Those batteries are Time Bombs,
waiting to corrode and spill nasty corrosive gunk all over the processor
board.  It often eats traces where the damage can't be readily seen, and can
even work its way onto the pins of nearby ICs and corrode them, too.
 
This is a rather common problem with synths of the early '80's, when Ni-Cad
batteries were the norm for memory backup, so this advice applies to most synths
of that vintage (EEWWW, there's that "V" word!).  Anyway, most of us would
Highly recommend changing that battery first.
 
Sorry, but as far as the long warm-up time goes, I don't have any ideas to help
you out.  Someone on this list should have some valuable suggestions, though -
we're a good bunch here!  ;-)
 
All the best,
Dave Garfield



________________________________
From: oseite <oseite@...>
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, November 11, 2009 3:07:51 PM
Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours

 
I think the battery is allright. It looks fine and the saved sounds work (after
warming up - 4 hours).
Any other ideas?

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups .com, "Jim" <jbgange@... > wrote:
>
> First open it up and check for battery leakage.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: oseite
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups .com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
> Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now, I
have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to "warm
up" otherwise the sound is bad.
> How can I repair it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Oliver
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Oliver,



When you say it 'sounds bad' what do you mean? Out of tune, dysfunctional,
distorted, etc? It is common for a 'board of this vintage to take around 30
minutes to 'warm up', but 4 hours? Could be lots of things wrong I can think
of. If you can describe how the instrument sounds after say 15 minutes on
from cold? Perhaps even make a recording and post it. That would be a great
help!



Cheers,

Andy



From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
oseite
Sent: 11 November 2009 22:08
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours





I think the battery is allright. It looks fine and the saved sounds work
(after warming up - 4 hours).
Any other ideas?

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jim"
<jbgange@...> wrote:
>
> First open it up and check for battery leakage.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: oseite
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
> Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now, I
have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to
"warm up" otherwise the sound is bad.
> How can I repair it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Oliver
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I think the battery is allright. It looks fine and the saved sounds work (after
warming up - 4 hours).
Any other ideas?



--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jbgange@...> wrote:
>
> First open it up and check for battery leakage.
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: oseite
>   To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
>   Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours
>
>
>
>   Hello,
>
>   I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now, I
have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to "warm
up" otherwise the sound is bad.
>   How can I repair it?
>
>   Thanks
>
>   Oliver
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Thanks for the quick replies!

After reading the manual I got more insight as to how tweaking works for this
synth. I found out that while tweaking knobs it takes extreme movements to
over-right the original settings on a patch.

With this in mind I started to play with the ADSR and it seems that they are
actually working quite well. The attack and decay may need  a tweak as the range
in which they work in seems a little off. It seems like between 0-4 it does
little to the sound then between 4-7 it changes dramatically and then past 7 it
dies off again. Not sure if thats how its supposed to be, Ill have the video
ready in a little bit to show what I mean. The Sustain and Release seem to work
fine after using the method mentioned in the manual to reset their state.

Also, I did the voltage test on IC7, its funny because as I was doing it the EG
started to work. It does read from -5 to +5 on pin one. As I was doing the test
I noticed that it was changing the sound. I looked more into it and I guess I
just didnt play with it enough because the cutoff setting seems to determine how
well this knob works. Once I moved the cutoff around the EG started to make a
bigger difference.

So I guess this problem was just me not knowing the basic function of this
synth.

I did record a video of me tweaking the ADSR and EG, Ill get that edited and
posted later tonight.

Thanks again!

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Jury" <andy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
>
>
>
> Before you do anything else make sure that pin 1 of IC7 swings between -5v
> and  +5v (or thereabouts) as you turn the EG knob clockwise.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Paul
> Sent: 11 November 2009 00:02
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] A few questions about my new Poly-six
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have recently acquired a Korg Polysix and am now in the process of fixing
> it up.
>
> Luckily the battery problem was already done by the previous owner, all the
> broken traces were replaced with wires and a new battery was fitted.
>
> The synth plays alright, I already took apart the key contacts and cleaned
> them but will have to go back and do it again because a few keys still dont
> work all the time.
>
> I also have to replace 13 of the 19 push buttons for patches and tape
> memory, I have already ordered those.
>
> My question is about calibration. Ive tuned a much simpler Roland JX-8P in
> the past, which only had a few very simple variable resistors and took a few
> minutes. Ive Looked over the calibration procedure for this synth and it
> seems much harder.
>
> The reason I want to do the calibration in the first place is because Ive
> noticed that a few of the functions on the synth dont work correctly.
>
> The EG intensity knob doesnt change the sound at all, while all 4 EG knobs
> (ADSR) work in a way that I believe is wrong. I was going to describe it
> here but gave up as they just seem really random. I think the best way for
> me to describe them would be to make a video, which I will do later.
>
> Ive tested all the 10k pots on that board with a multimeter and they seems
> to all function the same: They start at 1.09k when they are all the way to
> one end and move up to about 2.9k somewhere in the middle and then back down
> to 0 on the other side of rotation.
>
> I should also mention that ive loaded a bank of stock presets and they dont
> seem to function correct either. I had to turn the ADSR knobs to random
> positions it seems to get any sound out of the few patches I tried.
>
> I did notice that there are adjustments listed for all the different EG
> functions in the instructions. Could I just skip to those tests or should I
> follow the full guide step by step?
>
> I have a multimeter and a PC oscilloscope. Ive also made the 56k Ohm jumper
> that is talked about in the calibration instructions.
>
> Ill make a video of the problem and post it on youtube later tonight or
> tomorrow.
>
> Any help would be much appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

First open it up and check for battery leakage.

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: oseite
   To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:30 AM
   Subject: [PolySix] Help! My Polysix needs to warm up for 4 hours



   Hello,

   I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now, I
have to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to "warm
up" otherwise the sound is bad.
   How can I repair it?

   Thanks

   Oliver





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,

I did not use my Poly6 for some years. When I want to use the Poly6 now, I have
to turn the power on and wait for about 4 hours. The Polysix has to "warm up"
otherwise the sound is bad.
How can I repair it?

Thanks

Oliver

Hi Paul,



Before you do anything else make sure that pin 1 of IC7 swings between -5v
and  +5v (or thereabouts) as you turn the EG knob clockwise.



Cheers,

Andy



From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Paul
Sent: 11 November 2009 00:02
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PolySix] A few questions about my new Poly-six





Hello,

I have recently acquired a Korg Polysix and am now in the process of fixing
it up.

Luckily the battery problem was already done by the previous owner, all the
broken traces were replaced with wires and a new battery was fitted.

The synth plays alright, I already took apart the key contacts and cleaned
them but will have to go back and do it again because a few keys still dont
work all the time.

I also have to replace 13 of the 19 push buttons for patches and tape
memory, I have already ordered those.

My question is about calibration. Ive tuned a much simpler Roland JX-8P in
the past, which only had a few very simple variable resistors and took a few
minutes. Ive Looked over the calibration procedure for this synth and it
seems much harder.

The reason I want to do the calibration in the first place is because Ive
noticed that a few of the functions on the synth dont work correctly.

The EG intensity knob doesnt change the sound at all, while all 4 EG knobs
(ADSR) work in a way that I believe is wrong. I was going to describe it
here but gave up as they just seem really random. I think the best way for
me to describe them would be to make a video, which I will do later.

Ive tested all the 10k pots on that board with a multimeter and they seems
to all function the same: They start at 1.09k when they are all the way to
one end and move up to about 2.9k somewhere in the middle and then back down
to 0 on the other side of rotation.

I should also mention that ive loaded a bank of stock presets and they dont
seem to function correct either. I had to turn the ADSR knobs to random
positions it seems to get any sound out of the few patches I tried.

I did notice that there are adjustments listed for all the different EG
functions in the instructions. Could I just skip to those tests or should I
follow the full guide step by step?

I have a multimeter and a PC oscilloscope. Ive also made the 56k Ohm jumper
that is talked about in the calibration instructions.

Ill make a video of the problem and post it on youtube later tonight or
tomorrow.

Any help would be much appreciated!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I would check the 'repaired' board. On mine I repaired it myself, the symptoms
were various knobs not doing 'anything' to the sound. It was the quad and gate
near the battery damaged. Now the owner may have put new traces/battery in but
did they change the IC? one dead gate can cause those problems.

It may not be this but I would double check it first to rule it out, esp if you
have a logic tester it's simple to test that IC.



To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
From: pchorostecki@...
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 00:02:27 +0000
Subject: [PolySix] A few questions about my new Poly-six




























       Hello,



I have recently acquired a Korg Polysix and am now in the process of fixing it
up.



Luckily the battery problem was already done by the previous owner, all the
broken traces were replaced with wires and a new battery was fitted.



The synth plays alright, I already took apart the key contacts and cleaned them
but will have to go back and do it again because a few keys still dont work all
the time.



I also have to replace 13 of the 19 push buttons for patches and tape memory, I
have already ordered those.



My question is about calibration. Ive tuned a much simpler Roland JX-8P in the
past, which only had a few very simple variable resistors and took a few
minutes. Ive Looked over the calibration procedure for this synth and it seems
much harder.



The reason I want to do the calibration in the first place is because Ive
noticed that a few of the functions on the synth dont work correctly.



The EG intensity knob doesnt change the sound at all, while all 4 EG knobs
(ADSR) work in a way that I believe is wrong. I was going to describe it here
but gave up as they just seem really random. I think the best way for me to
describe them would be to make a video, which I will do later.



Ive tested all the 10k pots on that board with a multimeter and they seems to
all function the same: They start at 1.09k when they are all the way to one end
and move up to about 2.9k somewhere in the middle and then back down to 0 on the
other side of rotation.



I should also mention that ive loaded a bank of stock presets and they dont seem
to function correct either. I had to turn the ADSR knobs to random positions it
seems to get any sound out of the few patches I tried.



I did notice that there are adjustments listed for all the different EG
functions in the instructions. Could I just skip to those tests or should I
follow the full guide step by step?



I have a multimeter and a PC oscilloscope. Ive also made the 56k Ohm jumper that
is talked about in the calibration instructions.



Ill make a video of the problem and post it on youtube later tonight or
tomorrow.



Any help would be much appreciated!


















_________________________________________________________________
Add your Gmail and Yahoo! Mail email accounts into Hotmail - it's easy
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394592/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,

I have recently acquired a Korg Polysix and am now in the process of fixing it
up.

Luckily the battery problem was already done by the previous owner, all the
broken traces were replaced with wires and a new battery was fitted.

The synth plays alright, I already took apart the key contacts and cleaned them
but will have to go back and do it again because a few keys still dont work all
the time.

I also have to replace 13 of the 19 push buttons for patches and tape memory, I
have already ordered those.

My question is about calibration. Ive tuned a much simpler Roland JX-8P in the
past, which only had a few very simple variable resistors and took a few
minutes. Ive Looked over the calibration procedure for this synth and it seems
much harder.

The reason I want to do the calibration in the first place is because Ive
noticed that a few of the functions on the synth dont work correctly.

The EG intensity knob doesnt change the sound at all, while all 4 EG knobs
(ADSR) work in a way that I believe is wrong. I was going to describe it here
but gave up as they just seem really random. I think the best way for me to
describe them would be to make a video, which I will do later.

Ive tested all the 10k pots on that board with a multimeter and they seems to
all function the same: They start at 1.09k when they are all the way to one end
and move up to about 2.9k somewhere in the middle and then back down to 0 on the
other side of rotation.

I should also mention that ive loaded a bank of stock presets and they dont seem
to function correct either. I had to turn the ADSR knobs to random positions it
seems to get any sound out of the few patches I tried.

I did notice that there are adjustments listed for all the different EG
functions in the instructions. Could I just skip to those tests or should I
follow the full guide step by step?

I have a multimeter and a PC oscilloscope. Ive also made the 56k Ohm jumper that
is talked about in the calibration instructions.

Ill make a video of the problem and post it on youtube later tonight or
tomorrow.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Hi Gil (and others),

I've just received the button caps I bought from Gil. Thank you very
much. Until you offered, I had pretty much given up on these. Also Gil,
you made the whole process very easy, and paid a lot of attention to
detail. Fantastic!

Cheers,

Oli

Gil wrote:
> Thank you Dave,
>
> You were pleasure to deal with ;)
>
> Enjoy your P6 !
>
>
>
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <daveogarf@...> wrote:
>> Just a brief note to let group members know that I just completed a
transaction with fellow member Gil W.  He made sure that the parts requested
were correct, and then sent them post-haste.  Parts arrived in Perfect
condition, well-packed and FAST!  THANKS, Gil, and I can recommend trading with
him hands down.
>> --Dave
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>