Hi Waylan, a compensated saddle means that the points where the strings go
over it are slanted slightly and the one for the B string is back a
fraction. This is to "compensate" for the string lengths and to give the
best possible intonation for each string. It's a nice to have on most modern
guitars, but not always essential - i.e. if you test the intonation on your
D35 now and all are right on, then no further "compensation" is necessary.
However, it is common that the b might be a fraction sharp.

As I said, the Tusq (brand name) saddles are provided with the correct width
for your martin (measure it to make sure, and will drop into the bridge
slot.
They are provided with this compensation shaping, and all that needs to be
done is to sand down the base to provide the string height you want. (I
agree that this is not as easy as it sounds as the bottom of the saddle
where it fits in the slot must be dead flat).

Again, I'd recommend going to a reputable guitar store, and ask them to fit
a Tusq saddle to give the height of string above the 12th fret that you
want.

Also, as I'd hoped to explain earlier - go my string gauges ...not
descriptions.

Light : 12,16,24,32,42,53.
Medium : 13,17,25 or 26, 35,45,56

Bluegrass/medium light (or whatever) 12,16,24 or 25, 35, 46, 56.
In other words a light top and a medium bottom. Good combination for a
dreadnaught (IMHO)

Even lighter strings than lights will not do this guitar justice, heavier
are not advised.

Don't buy a Taylor ....why downgrade ?

Andy



-----Original Message-----
From: acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wayoutwaylan
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 1:22 AM
To: acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Best strings for Martin D35

Thanks Andrew and Jimbo for your input.
Haven't decided what to do yet.
Just wondering if it is possible to buy somewhere a saddle slightly lower
and already prefabricated saddle so I could just pull out the other one and
set the new one in with
out grinding it down. I'm not so good at that sort of thing.
Also,  what would a compensated saddle do? I wonder why Martin didn't put
one on it when they made it.
I think Martin now makes light/medium strings that are in between the light
and heavy.Only they aren't coated.  What would you think of trying those?
How about the coated strings vs the uncoated. What is your preference?
Andrew, you mentioned the bluegrass strings. Are they the same?
Also I don't want to lose any volume in the treble. Think that would happen
with the lighter strings?
My playing style is kind of like whatever. I do a lot of strumming, some
finger picking and rarely use a pick.
I just might be asking for too much but I have had some problems before on
other guitars with so called certified repair techs that fixed things in a
permenant way that I could not reverse and some luthiers that want to do
what they want to do and not listen to what I am trying to do. They just say
this is the way I do it and that's that. But thier approaches to solution
can be different from one to another. I just really love this guitar and
just want it to play easier and first of all, do no harm. (I just wonder if
someone will come back with "buy a Taylor"
Thanks again for the input.
 
 
 


--- On Thu, 7/2/09, Andrew Perry <andrew@...> wrote:


From: Andrew Perry <andrew@...>
Subject: RE: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Best strings for Martin D35
To: acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, July 2, 2009, 7:53 AM


Well Waylan, you have already said your options.
You already know me as a fan of heavier strings, but that is subjective.

I know the D35 model well - had a few, including a 1973 (bad year) which
was, one of the finest Martins I ever had. A pal owns it now, and keeps
mediums on it and they feel like extra lights. The big tonal aspect of D35s
(IMHO) is the full round bass end).

So:

Option 1. Leave the action where it is, and try one set of Daddario/Martin
lights - (12-53) P/B for durability and tension, Bronze for tone and perhaps
a tad less tension (I'm not sure about this).

Option 2. Get a slightly lower nut made up (keeping the old one) and put on
Mediums (13-56)

Option 3. If you are a light fingerpicker) lower nut as above AND use
lights.

An inbetweeny option are Med/lights, or bluegrass gauge (12,16,25,35,45,56)
- I love 'em)

ACTION : If the action is good at the first position, check out the relief -
as a tiny touch of adjustment on the truss rod might help.

General Action Height: for light gauge I would suggest a height above the
12th fret of at least .070" (top e) .090"  (as recommended on the Stewmac
gauge). I use this on my smaller guitars with lights.

For mediums/bluegrass - I tend to prefer more like .090 (top) and .120
(bass). (plectrum use)


Another thought: Regarding saddles - whilst we would all prefer a good lump
of ivory, or at least bleached bone, the Tusq option is very good and can be
bought with compensation for the B string. If you have a local luthier
repairer, it is best for both if you tell him/her exactly what string height
at the 12th you want. If not a Tusq Saddle is easy and cheapish to buy, for
a DIY job.

Final thought - if you can get 'em, British strings by "Newtone" are
slightly lower in tension than mst, and very good.

Hope this helps,


Andrew Perry

Elderly, British, Opinionated, and Grumpy, but musical







-----Original Message-----
From: acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wayoutwaylan
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 6:20 AM
To: acousticguitaristguild@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Acoustic Guitarist Guild] Best strings for Martin D35

I recently purchased a Martin D35 2008 model.
Love the sound as it is now.
great intonation etc.
It has coated D Addario Mediums on it now.
It as far as I can tell has never been modified in any way other than the
string change.
The saddle is bone and is high.
Action is probably best described as medium.
Neck is straight. guitar is mint.
Only problem I have is playability
Open chords are easy enough but I would like to play the bar chords easier.
I have had some advise on what to do like--- lower the saddle, truss rod
adjustment, setup etc.
The problem I have with these recommendations is that - been there, done
that on other Martin guitars.  It has always been a trade off for tone in my
opinion.
I would like to get some opinions from some of you luthiers out there and/or
some people who have had the same experience on thier own guitars.
If I l change to lighter strings, I will lose some of the volume and tone
will probably change some.
Would be willing to try a shorter saddle but as far as I know, I would have
to trust this to someone who may file saddle down uneven or change the
intonation etc. Have researched on the net for some answers and can't seem
to find any.
Any advise like as to what strings would sound and play better on it will be
appreciated
I'm trying to save a little time and frustration by asking opinions from a
great group of people who I think are more knowledgeable about acoustics
than are on most sites.
 
Thanks to all.
 
 
 


     

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