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   Uploaded by : midi_jazz <midi_jazz@...>
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Regards,

midi_jazz <midi_jazz@...>

http://oikosulku.blogspot.com/2007/06/mempot-controlling-xoxbox.html
http://www.youtube.com/misusage

Hi guys,
just noticed this over at the x0xb0x forum....seems like an
interesting mod to me, what do you think ? would you try it with your
fr-revo ?

http://oikosulku.blogspot.com/2007/06/mempot-controlling-xoxbox.html
http://www.youtube.com/misusage

Hi guys,
just noticed this over at the x0xb0x forum....seems like an
interesting mod to me, what do you think ?

Jered, you rawk!  Thank you.  I'll refrain from asking the last big
question, you know, about when the XS will be shipping and all that....

:)

god speed,
Scott

On 5/14/07, Future Retro <jered@...> wrote:
>
>   >
> >
> >Last questions:
> >Do the switch caps house the LED components too?
> >
> The switch caps simply cover the switch and LED.
>
> > Or does one need to remove
> >the entire switch, soldering and all, in order to effectively change out
> the
> >Switch cap and LED?
> >
> If you just want to change the LED and cap color, pulll the cap off, and
> desolder and remove the LED. The LED has to fit its pins in special
> holes in the switch, and this is why the LED leads need to be formed to
> this shape before they go into the switch.
>
> >In other words, if my objective is to replace the cap colors and LEDs
> only,
> >can that be done without the involved level of soldering you describe in
> >removing an entire switch?
> >
> If you can, avoid trying to remove the entire switch, otherwise there is
> greater risk harming the traces on the board.
>
> Jered
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>
>
>Last questions:
>Do the switch caps house the LED components too?
>
The switch caps simply cover the switch and LED.

> Or does one need to remove
>the entire switch, soldering and all, in order to effectively change out the
>Switch cap and LED?
>
If you just want to change the LED and cap color, pulll the cap off, and
desolder and remove the LED. The LED has to fit its pins in special
holes in the switch, and this is why the LED leads need to be formed to
this shape before they go into the switch.

>In other words, if my objective is to replace the cap colors and LEDs only,
>can that be done without the involved level of soldering you describe in
>removing an entire switch?
>
If you can, avoid trying to remove the entire switch, otherwise there is
greater risk harming the traces on the board.

Jered

Jered-
Thank you so much for your time on this. I don't want to take any more, if
only because I'm still on pins and needles for the XS!
;)
Last questions:
Do the switch caps house the LED components too?  Or does one need to remove
the entire switch, soldering and all, in order to effectively change out the
Switch cap and LED?

In other words, if my objective is to replace the cap colors and LEDs only,
can that be done without the involved level of soldering you describe in
removing an entire switch?

Thanks!
Scott

On 5/14/07, Future Retro <jered@...> wrote:
>
>   To remove the switch caps you pull up on them on the opposite side as
> they are hinged. So where they normall push down, you pull up. But the
> little pins that hold the cap on can get bent easily.
> Removing the entire switch is difficult due to the thick mounting leads
> that get soldered to the board. It's very difficult to remove all the
> solder from these leads in order to just pull the switch out, and it is
> also difficult to heat them all up at the same time if you try that
> technique. Often, we just destroy the switch by cutting away the plastic
> body of the switch so we are left with only the pins soldered to the
> board, and then each pin can be removed one at a time.
> The risk you run trying to remove the entire switch intact is that you
> could easily pull up when the switch is not completely desoldered, and
> then you're going to end up pull the traces up off the board, which
> could ruin the board.
>
> Jered
>
>
> Shagghie wrote:
>
> >Jered-
> >Thanks brother! I've had some luck finding a distributor for the SP86 A
> >style switches themselves...a much cleaner way to go I imagine.
> >In looking at the switches on the board... it looks as though the removal
> is
> >simply to pry the plastic on the north and south sides of the switch off
> the
> >plastic tab. Apart from that, is there any solder work that needs to be
> >done for removal of the switches, or is it as easy as I i'm imagining?
> I'm
> >having a harder time find a special tool to pull the tabs apart
> congruently,
> >than I am sourcing the switches.
> >
> >Scott Scheferman
> >
> >On 5/14/07, Future Retro <jered@...<jered%40future-retro.com>>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> >> The LED's used in the 777 are built into the actual switches. Although
> >>they can be replaced, It's quite a chore to do so. You would have to
> >>carefully remove the switch caps, desolder and remove the old LED's,
> >>form the new LED's leads to fit in the holes of the switch and solder
> >>them, and reinstall the switch caps. Due to the design of the switch
> >>caps, it's real easy to break them when trying to remove them. And you
> >>can't buy just the caps, you would have to buy an entirely new switch if
> >>you break the cap.
> >>LED's that could be used as replacement would be a diffused T-1 3mm size
> >>LED.
> >>
> >>Jered
> >>
> >>lsc5h4g wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>Anyone know the exact specs of the LEDs on the 777? Are they
> >>>integrated into the step buttons and non-replaceable, or are they
> >>>unit-replaceable?
> >>>
> >>>If so, what's the voltage, size, etc.?
> >>>
> >>>Thanks!
> >>>Shagghie
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>#####################################
> >>>|===================================|
> >>>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
> >>>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
> >>>|===================================|
> >>>#####################################
> >>>Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >#####################################
> >|===================================|
> >|========== Future Retro: ==========|
> >|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
> >|===================================|
> >#####################################
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To remove the switch caps you pull up on them on the opposite side as
they are hinged. So where they normall push down, you pull up. But the
little pins that hold the cap on can get bent easily.
Removing the entire switch is difficult due to the thick mounting leads
that get soldered to the board. It's very difficult to remove all the
solder from these leads in order to just pull the switch out, and it is
also difficult to heat them all up at the same time if you try that
technique. Often, we just destroy the switch by cutting away the plastic
body of the switch so we are left with only the pins soldered to the
board, and then each pin can be removed one at a time.
The risk you run trying to remove the entire switch intact is that you
could easily pull up when the switch is not completely desoldered, and
then you're going to end up pull the traces up off the board, which
could ruin the board.

Jered

Shagghie wrote:

>Jered-
>Thanks brother!  I've had some luck finding a distributor for the SP86 A
>style switches themselves...a much cleaner way to go I imagine.
>In looking at the switches on the board... it looks as though the removal is
>simply to pry the plastic on the north and south sides of the switch off the
>plastic tab.  Apart from that, is there any solder work that needs to be
>done for removal of the switches, or is it as easy as I i'm imagining?  I'm
>having a harder time find a special tool to pull the tabs apart congruently,
>than I am sourcing the switches.
>
>Scott Scheferman
>
>On 5/14/07, Future Retro <jered@...> wrote:
>
>
>>  The LED's used in the 777 are built into the actual switches. Although
>>they can be replaced, It's quite a chore to do so. You would have to
>>carefully remove the switch caps, desolder and remove the old LED's,
>>form the new LED's leads to fit in the holes of the switch and solder
>>them, and reinstall the switch caps. Due to the design of the switch
>>caps, it's real easy to break them when trying to remove them. And you
>>can't buy just the caps, you would have to buy an entirely new switch if
>>you break the cap.
>>LED's that could be used as replacement would be a diffused T-1 3mm size
>>LED.
>>
>>Jered
>>
>>lsc5h4g wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Anyone know the exact specs of the LEDs on the 777? Are they
>>>integrated into the step buttons and non-replaceable, or are they
>>>unit-replaceable?
>>>
>>>If so, what's the voltage, size, etc.?
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>Shagghie
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>#####################################
>>>|===================================|
>>>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
>>>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
>>>|===================================|
>>>#####################################
>>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>#####################################
>|===================================|
>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
>|===================================|
>#####################################
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jered-
Thanks brother!  I've had some luck finding a distributor for the SP86 A
style switches themselves...a much cleaner way to go I imagine.
In looking at the switches on the board... it looks as though the removal is
simply to pry the plastic on the north and south sides of the switch off the
plastic tab.  Apart from that, is there any solder work that needs to be
done for removal of the switches, or is it as easy as I i'm imagining?  I'm
having a harder time find a special tool to pull the tabs apart congruently,
than I am sourcing the switches.

Scott Scheferman

On 5/14/07, Future Retro <jered@...> wrote:
>
>   The LED's used in the 777 are built into the actual switches. Although
> they can be replaced, It's quite a chore to do so. You would have to
> carefully remove the switch caps, desolder and remove the old LED's,
> form the new LED's leads to fit in the holes of the switch and solder
> them, and reinstall the switch caps. Due to the design of the switch
> caps, it's real easy to break them when trying to remove them. And you
> can't buy just the caps, you would have to buy an entirely new switch if
> you break the cap.
> LED's that could be used as replacement would be a diffused T-1 3mm size
> LED.
>
> Jered
>
> lsc5h4g wrote:
>
> >Anyone know the exact specs of the LEDs on the 777? Are they
> >integrated into the step buttons and non-replaceable, or are they
> >unit-replaceable?
> >
> >If so, what's the voltage, size, etc.?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >Shagghie
> >
> >
> >
> >#####################################
> >|===================================|
> >|========== Future Retro: ==========|
> >|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
> >|===================================|
> >#####################################
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The LED's used in the 777 are built into the actual switches. Although
they can be replaced, It's quite a chore to do so. You would have to
carefully remove the switch caps, desolder and remove the old LED's,
form the new LED's leads to fit in the holes of the switch and solder
them, and reinstall the switch caps. Due to the design of the switch
caps, it's real easy to break them when trying to remove them. And you
can't buy just the caps, you would have to buy an entirely new switch if
you break the cap.
LED's that could be used as replacement would be a diffused T-1 3mm size
LED.

Jered

lsc5h4g wrote:

>Anyone know the exact specs of the LEDs on the 777?  Are they
>integrated into the step buttons and non-replaceable, or are they
>unit-replaceable?
>
>If so, what's the voltage, size, etc.?
>
>Thanks!
>Shagghie
>
>
>
>#####################################
>|===================================|
>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
>|===================================|
>#####################################
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUr9Q0naQK4

Enjoy!

The entire 35 minute live performance, featuring this same 777 on the
baselines is up here:


http://www.megaupload.com/?d=OQH6017R

(you need to enter the captcha in the top right corner and click past
any adds...but, it's free and worth it!)

Anyone know the exact specs of the LEDs on the 777?  Are they
integrated into the step buttons and non-replaceable, or are they
unit-replaceable?

If so, what's the voltage, size, etc.?

Thanks!
Shagghie

ok - i have been doing some research and Christopher Sawyerr is a
well known scammer - he used to rip people off for auto parts here in
the states - then he got busted and had to pay back $12,000 plus he
was deported back to London from North Carolina..

you are victim 3 or maybe 4 as far as his recent synth scams that i
know of - so i am going to propose that we all file a joint complaint
with either the FBI or the UK police - or both.. so would you please
contact me directly at noah @ noahcohn.com?

let's bust this guy again!!


--- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "Noah" <prefect3@...> wrote:
>
> i just got ripped off $500 by the same guy - Chris Sawyerr in
London -
>  claimed to have a good condition 777 - $500 with free shipping.. i
> didn't yet know that was a way low price for the 777...  i've
started
> a paypal claim.. but i'll bet i never see that money again...  :-(
>
> --- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "circlesround"
> <birdfrozentoabranch@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > --- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "hadouken77" <jabman77@h...> wrote:
> >
> > > Hey I just wanted to let you guys know that I was ripped off
for
> > > $450 for a "mint purple 777" this time last year from a guy
from
> > the  UK who called himself "Chris."
> > > Josh
> >
> > Well I'm not in the UK, and Jered should still have my info on
file
> > should you wish to contact him for verification that I am indeed
> the
> > original owner of this unit ...
> >
> > Sucks that you got ripped off, but that's not what I'm here for.
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > Trevor
> >
>

i just got ripped off $500 by the same guy - Chris Sawyerr in London -
  claimed to have a good condition 777 - $500 with free shipping.. i
didn't yet know that was a way low price for the 777...  i've started
a paypal claim.. but i'll bet i never see that money again...  :-(

--- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "circlesround"
<birdfrozentoabranch@...> wrote:
>
>
> --- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "hadouken77" <jabman77@h...> wrote:
>
> > Hey I just wanted to let you guys know that I was ripped off for
> > $450 for a "mint purple 777" this time last year from a guy from
> the  UK who called himself "Chris."
> > Josh
>
> Well I'm not in the UK, and Jered should still have my info on file
> should you wish to contact him for verification that I am indeed
the
> original owner of this unit ...
>
> Sucks that you got ripped off, but that's not what I'm here for.
>
> Best,
>
> Trevor
>

Hey everyone, I'm forced to sell my 777.
It's in 8/10 shape, power adapter included.

$720 total, including prompt shipping to cont. US and Canada

Check out my demo vid...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiesWCqHv0Q

contact me at

devon at <remove this for spam> rhythmdroid dot com

THANKS!!

Ahhhh....that's what the 32 number is for. That should do it.
Thank You.
   Chris.

Future Retro <jered@...> wrote:
           Hi Chris,
Glad to hear you're enjoying the 777.
The 777 and Mobius use the same pattern format. You can download the
factory patterns for the 777 on the bottom of the Mobius page on the FR
website, www.future-retro.com

When you're in the MIDI parameters, the first menu sets MIDI to Int/Ext
(or On/Off for earlier OS) , the second menu selects the MIDI channel.
If you press the MIDI key again, it should exit the MIDI setup pages
which would take you back into the Song edit mode. You may be adjusting
the current song step when you say you are going up to 32?

Thanks,
Jered

analog_alpha wrote:

>I had just purchased 777 second hand and I love it. I also have the
>Andromeda A6 and using both of them is like heaven for me. Sequencer
>from 777 is so awesome. Bass patches from A6 running through 777's
>sequencer make my digital synths look stupid. Anyways,
>1) I'm wondering if anyone could email me the factory patches from 777.
>I would really appreciate that.
>2) When going into MIDI settings on 777 the first thing is INT/EXT
>setting. Second one is the receiving/sending channel. What is the third
>number for? It goes to 32.
>This would be it for now.
>Thank You.
>
>Chris.
>
>
>
>
>#####################################
>|===================================|
>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
>|===================================|
>#####################################
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






---------------------------------
Now you can have a huge leap forward in email: get the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Chris,
Glad to hear you're enjoying the 777.
The 777 and Mobius use the same pattern format. You can download the
factory patterns for the 777 on the bottom of the Mobius page on the FR
website, www.future-retro.com

When you're in the MIDI parameters, the first menu sets MIDI to Int/Ext
(or On/Off for earlier OS) , the second menu selects the MIDI channel.
If you press the MIDI key again, it should exit the MIDI setup pages
which would take you back into the Song edit mode. You may be adjusting
the current song step when you say you are going up to 32?

Thanks,
Jered

analog_alpha wrote:

>I had just purchased 777 second hand and I love it. I also have the
>Andromeda A6 and using both of them is like heaven for me. Sequencer
>from 777 is so awesome. Bass patches from A6 running through 777's
>sequencer make my digital synths look stupid. Anyways,
>1) I'm wondering if anyone could email me the factory patches from 777.
>I would really appreciate that.
>2) When going into MIDI settings on 777 the first thing is INT/EXT
>setting. Second one is the receiving/sending channel. What is the third
>number for? It goes to 32.
>This would be it for now.
>Thank You.
>
>Chris.
>
>
>
>
>#####################################
>|===================================|
>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
>|===================================|
>#####################################
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I had just purchased 777 second hand and I love it. I also have the
Andromeda A6 and using both of them is like heaven for me. Sequencer
from 777 is so awesome. Bass patches from A6 running through 777's
sequencer make my digital synths look stupid. Anyways,
1) I'm wondering if anyone could email me the factory patches from 777.
I would really appreciate that.
2) When going into MIDI settings on 777 the first thing is INT/EXT
setting. Second one is the receiving/sending channel. What is the third
number for? It goes to 32.
This would be it for now.
Thank You.

Chris.

--- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, DB <dave@...> wrote:
>
> I thought Jared had indicated he was thinking of upgrading the Mobius
OS
> after the XS release
> with the ability to do swing and remote program changes.

Yes, that would be great!!

>
> I've got the P3 and wouldn't part with it for anything, it's like
having
> 8 Mobius' on Kryptonite.

But the P3 does not have cv/gate afaik. maybe there will be a mobius2
with even more features like more chanels for cv and gate?

regards,
oliver

I thought Jared had indicated he was thinking of upgrading the Mobius OS
after the XS release
with the ability to do swing and remote program changes.  I know of at
least 5 or 6 other users who
are anxiously awaiting to  pay for an upgrade chip to drop in the Mobius ;)


I've got the P3 and wouldn't part with it for anything, it's like having
8 Mobius' on Kryptonite.   Can't wait
to build my P3 Kit that I bought a couple of years ago and have 2 of
them available.


Cheers,
Dave

hbeaumont hbeaumont wrote:
>
> If only we could have the an upgrade to add swing like the revolution.
> Mmmm.... mobious with swing. yum. Or better the code released so we could
> burn our own chips - after working on my xoxbox I'd love to have a
> crack at
> improving the mobiuos code. I don't see a downside for FR - they're
> the only
> ones selling the boxes. A better OS just means more buyers! Too bad
> the chip
> isn't flashable.
>
> Anyone used the signal arts or p3 sequencers. They both have their strong
> points but still don't beat the 777/mobius for in all areas.
>
>
> ,___

If only we could have the an upgrade to add swing like the revolution.
Mmmm.... mobious with swing. yum. Or better the code released so we could
burn our own chips - after working on my xoxbox I'd love to have a crack at
improving the mobiuos code. I don't see a downside for FR - they're the only
ones selling the boxes. A better OS just means more buyers! Too bad the chip
isn't flashable.

Anyone used the signal arts or p3 sequencers. They both have their strong
points but still don't beat the 777/mobius for in all areas.

On 7/11/06, legion01x <legion01x@...> wrote:
>
>   I just upgraded my FR777 to OS 3.1 and don't need my old chip. If
> anyone out there is still using V 1.X then this would be a good
> improvement for that.
>
> Of course I highly reccomend buying the latest chip from FR (it's only
> $23 including shipping) but if you need this let me know and I'll mail
> it out free.
>
>  __._,_.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I just upgraded my FR777 to OS 3.1 and don't need my old chip. If
anyone out there is still using V 1.X then this would be a good
improvement for that.

Of course I highly reccomend buying the latest chip from FR (it's only
$23 including shipping) but if you need this let me know and I'll mail
it out free.

Hey all,
As some of you may have noticed summer is here and the XS is not
shipping yet.
Several reasons for this...

For one, the european union is requiring all electronics imported to be
lead free after July1 of this year, and other countries are bound
follow. Europe is quite a big portion of FR sales. Not all of the
components we wish to use in the XS design are lead free at this time,
although I believe all the component manufacturers are working to update
their parts to meet these requirements.

The good news... is that we are taking this time to add more features to
the XS specs.
The changes we are working on include, adding MIDI, more filter types,
and a new distortion stage. Yes, you will still be able to use CV/Gates
to trigger everything in the XS, but with the addition of MIDI we will
provide the ability to repond to pitch bending, velocity for
manipulating envelope times, mod wheel for filter cutoff (so you can
record filter tweaks in a sequencer), and we are currently working on a
dedicated LFO which would be capable of MIDI clock sync.

The original filter specs gave just high and lowpass resonant responses,
now we are adding bandpass, and notch as well.

And the new analog distortion stage is sick, providing maximum crunch
without adding any to the noise floor.

So for now, all we can say is the release date is being pushed back to
more like this fall if everything goes as planned. We will post more
information about the XS on our website as we get closer to it's release.

Thanks,
Jered Flickinger




john_audette wrote:

>I hope this comes out soon.  I have severe GAS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>#####################################
>|===================================|
>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
>|===================================|
>#####################################
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I hope this comes out soon.  I have severe GAS.

Hello,
The problems you are experiencing are due to the unit not getting enough
current. Please contact FR directly and we can provide you with the
correct European power supply.

Thanks,
Jered

future777d wrote:

>hello there
>
>
>i have bought this 777 v3os upgraded and i cant reach any clean sounds
>out of it ,this really bumms me out though its a monster synth
>i have the original ac power but the sockets here are european so i had
>to get a transformer that gets ac to ac the transformet itself has ac
>110v output
>
>i tried to do tune it but i dont have a proper tuner to do it with
>and i also didnt get the scale ratio's mentioned on the tuning info page
>
>if any 1 could help me , or point me in the right direction ittl be
>great
>thanks &godbless
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>#####################################
>|===================================|
>|========== Future Retro: ==========|
>|== http://www.future-retro.com/ ===|
>|===================================|
>#####################################
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

From the FR website:

03:22:2006 FR releases the extremely limited
Signature Edition of the Revolution.
These include 9 UV orange units which are
available exclusively in the UK through
Analogue Addiction,
and 10 silver metalic units which are
available exclusively in the USA through
Nova Musik.


Also mentioned:

03:29-04:01:2006 All of our products including
the prototype XS will be on display at the
Musikmesse tradeshow in Germany. We invite
those attending the show to stop by the
Superbooth in Hall 5.1, stand D35 and D50,
to see the finest collection of analog
products and manufacturers.

Upgrading the 777 involves a EPROM swap, that's all.  The only
hardware upgrades, which aren't really upgrades in the rompler
synthesizer sense, are modifications made to a stock unit.

I don't know if there are any component differences between the
various 777 generations but the person to ask is Jared @ futureretro.


--- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "hitjob311" <hitjob311@...> wrote:
>
> I am thinking about buying a purple face, version 1 777.
>
> I had a couple questions though, can the version 1 unit still b
> upgraded to version three? Has anyone actually done it?
>
> Also, I have heard that the screenprinting on the purple units is bad,
> as in it will wear off very easily, can anyone confirm this?
>
> Thanks!
>

I've owned a purple one forever and the graphics are still perfect. AIso,
the v3 chip will work in any 777.




-----Original Message-----
From: fr777@yahoogroups.com [mailto:fr777@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
hitjob311
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 1:36 PM
To: fr777@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [FR] Re: Thinkiing about buying version 1 777


Hm...quite dead in here.

--- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "hitjob311" <hitjob311@y...> wrote:
>
> I am thinking about buying a purple face, version 1 777.
>
> I had a couple questions though, can the version 1 unit still b
> upgraded to version three? Has anyone actually done it?
>
> Also, I have heard that the screenprinting on the purple units is
bad,
> as in it will wear off very easily, can anyone confirm this?
>
> Thanks!
>






#####################################
|===================================|
|========== Future Retro: ==========|
|== http://www.future-retro.com/ <http://www.future-retro.com/>  ===|
|===================================|
#####################################



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hm...quite dead in here.

--- In fr777@yahoogroups.com, "hitjob311" <hitjob311@y...> wrote:
>
> I am thinking about buying a purple face, version 1 777.
>
> I had a couple questions though, can the version 1 unit still b
> upgraded to version three? Has anyone actually done it?
>
> Also, I have heard that the screenprinting on the purple units is
bad,
> as in it will wear off very easily, can anyone confirm this?
>
> Thanks!
>

Hi everyone!

I've had my 777 a couple of years now, know it inside out but still cannot
get it to play really deep bass. Not compared to the 303 I also have. Does
anyone else feel the same way about the 777?

I've used the suboscillators, used the extra bass switch and everything.
The bass from the 303 does still have more bass in it. What am I missing?

Or is it a fault with the construction itself? The high pass filter in the
signal path on its lowest setting cuts out the bass I want even though it
is at zero. If this is the problem, is there a mod for it?

/Janne

I am thinking about buying a purple face, version 1 777.

I had a couple questions though, can the version 1 unit still b
upgraded to version three? Has anyone actually done it?

Also, I have heard that the screenprinting on the purple units is bad,
as in it will wear off very easily, can anyone confirm this?

Thanks!