Mike,
I'd mask off the top except for the area you need and try a heat lamp.I've also
used an iron.I'd stay away from epoxy...fill the missing wood areas with super
glue and sand level.Use a quality wood glue for the bridge.If the top is warped
,i use a device called the bridge doctor.Flattens the top and acts as a sound
post..pretty cool...get it from Stewart-Macdonald Supply.
Hope this helps,
doc

michael_recchione <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
I have an old (mid-1970s) Aria 6-string acoustic that has more
sentimental than cash value. Unfortunately, the bridge finally gave
way a couple of months ago, taking some of the top wood with it. I
finished removing the old bridge with a hot knife, and managed to
limit the damage to the top, but the bridge had already pulled up
some of the wood when it started coming off. This particular guitar
was made without a bridge backing plate, and there wasn't enough
undamaged top wood under the bridge to trust, so I made a backing
plate out of hard maple and glued it in with hot hide glue. I planed
the bottom of the bridge flat (it had twisted significantly), and
glued it back on also with hot hide glue.

Unfortunately, the glue on the bridge didn't hold - it looks like the
top also warped some, and the seal wasn't perfect. I'm now
considering re-glueing it with epoxy to fill the gaps, but don't know
if it will be necessary to remove all the hide glue, and if it is,
how. Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance,

- Mike


Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
guitarluthiersnetwork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]