Electric Guitars and amps for sale

These are instruments I'm not using, and all work perfectly, and are
in good to perfect shape. I just find that my collecting and building
habit got the best of me, and I have to reduce the number of guitars I
have to make some room. I'll consider any reasonable offer, or trade
for other interesting items. I could really use the money, so please
look. They could make great gifts for someone special.

Guild x-79 hot rodded rebuild, lapis blue pearl paint with dichromatic
color change flakes, Kahler tremolo bridge locking nut, Polished
billet aluminum plates and stainless steel trim rings, High output Dan
Armstrong and EMG HB pickups. Truss rod cover carved into nude torso
to match head stock shape in aluminum, polished. The body shape on
this has a very long extended top horn, and the head stock shape
matches the body shape. Very low action Schaller tuners. 24 fret,
24.75" scale. A serious pro quality shredder,  $750 obo, trade.

All Maple Fender Strat neck on Ash Telecaster shaped body with lapis
blue pearl automotive lacquer and color change flakes, polished
aluminum rear control cover plates, Gibson Nashville bridge and Gibson
vibrato, DiMarzio X2N and PAF pickups, Ping tuners, Gibson style
control layout. Black knobs and trim rings, chrome hardware otherwise.
Lower tone control has push-pull coil tap. Extremely low action, great
playability and sound, outstanding guitar. $600 obo, or trade.

1967 Ampeg Dan Armstrong Plexiglass guitar, near mint, 2 pickups, HB
and SC, extra saddles, original hard shell case. 24 fret neck.
warranty card, small accessories catalog. Low action, great playing
guitar. $2750 firm.

Fretless 5 string custom bass, 34" scale, ebony on maple neck with
flamed maple veneer headstock, beautiful redheart and spruce chambered
body-5 layers, 2 EMG and 1 Bartolini pickups, polished aluminum rear
control cover. 1 volume control, 5 way Strat switch set into top.
Shallers. $800 obo.

Ibanez Roadstar 2 bass, wine red metallic, black hardware, 2 pickups,
GC, plays well, sounds good, but has a few scratches. Vol, tone, mix
knobs. $250, hard case.

Stratocaster with lefty Fender MIM neck strung right hand, emerald
green metallic paint with color change flakes, S/S/H, JB HB and QP SC
Duncans &Samick SC, Cast saddle 2 point fulcrum trem, Stainless steel
pickguard, Shallers, rosewood fingerboard. Very nice action, $500 obo,
or trade.

Late 60's Epiphone electric solid body modified, Kahler tremolo
bridge, 2 hot HB Duncan pups, Bell Brass pickguard & control cover,
Brass nut, original red to bright yellow sunburst finish, flamed maple
top and back. Wide maple 3 piece neck with large block mother of pearl
inlays, Schallers, gold hardware. Very low action. $350 obo

Acoustic 150 amplifier, 150 watts. Lots of power, and a good sounding
amp, The tone is not the super clean normal transistor tone, gets a
little dirty, distorts pretty well. Good basic amp for guitar or bass,
  could be a good mono slave for a PA. $150 obo, or trade. Works well
with 2-12" cab below.

2-12" speaker cabinet for guitar, 300 watts RMS @ 4 ohm, home made but
nice, steel corners & grills, black paint, heavy duty castors. $150
obo / trade

4 space rack with ART SGE mach II effects unit, Crate XLP preamp and
Crate SPA 200 power amp. I'd used it for guitar for a while as a head
running 2 speaker cabs. The XLP has stereo outputs, 2 channel high and
low gain, reverb, chorus. effects loop, lots of connections, foot
switch. The ART has really good effects aside from the distortion, the
delays and reverbs are very good, also has good vocal effect patches,
200 savable effect combinations. The SPA 200 put out 200 watts rms @ 4
ohms bridged, 100 watts each @ 4 ohms stereo, and 60 watts a side at 8
ohms stereo. I used it at the 60 watt stereo mainly, it's nice for
getting those stereo echo effects and wider chorus sounds. I'd like
$500 for the whole thing, or I'll separate parts, trade.

Peavey 2-12" PA mid cabinet, wired 16 ohm, probably handles around 100
watts RMS, has a big port like for folded horns, so it's the size of a
4 x 12 cabinet. I'd used it for guitar, works fine. $100 / trade

2-12" lensed cabinet, no drivers, would be a mid cab for a big PA,
very directional, can get really loud depending on drivers used. It's
coated in fiberglass, black, sessions style metal hardware, heavy duty
castors. $75/trade

Memphis/custom, recently finished one out of some odd parts, it's a
bright red finish Memphis brand neck, a big thick but straight one
with LP style headstock, on a relatively small body painted gold. It's
not a glossy finish, it 's more stippled, and evenly textured, matte
with a semi-transparent highly reflective layer. It's got sealed
tuners, a humbucker with Guild style 3 screw mounting and chrome
cover, an old Harmony single coil from the 60's with a  nice
strat-like sound, 3 way toggle, volume and tone, aluminum knobs, side
jack, Teisco stop tailpiece and roller bridge. The action is low, and
it plays beautifully. $150 obo, trade, has cloth gig bag. Light weight.

Bass, Gold body paint same as Memphis, unknown neck with 3/1 headstock
small MOP inlays, 30" scale, thin, straight, low action, 4 string, EMG
Jazz bass and Barcus Berry pickups, one ea. Volume and tone, 3 way
switch. Low action, plays good, nice, $200 obo, trade.

Realistic Radio Shack brand small PA mixer/amp. 80 watts mono, 4 mics
+ aux. XLR, phono and 1/4" inputs, 1/4" and wire speaker outs.
Compact, works well. $75 obo.  Or trade.

I've got 3 guitars that are somewhat oddball things I built, they play
OK, could be good for a student as starter guitars.
#1 is a cheap black bolt neck BC Rich Warlock that I rebuilt, made a
maple neck to fit the 24 fret 24.75" scale, Schaller/Duncan pups,
Strat style trem.
#2 is a Strat/Charvell style, 1 X2N pickup with coil tap, 2 point
Strat style bridge, sealed tuners, very thin wide neck, low action,
plays really well.
  #3 is one I made for a friend using a 12 string 20 fret neck he
supplied, "A" shaped  maple and mahogany butcher block style body,
Badass stop tailpiece bridge, Gibson and DiMarzio pups, Grovers. I
used really good pickups and other parts on these, and the parts are
probably worth more separately than I'm asking for the entire guitar.
Check them out, make an offer. I've been thinking they could go for
around $100 ea. OBO, trade.

PA speakers, 2 pair. 3 way single 15" rated 150 watts rms @ 8 ohms, /
2 way 15" rated 200 watts RMS @ 8 ohms. Home made but solid, look
good, steel corners, grilles, gloss black paint, set up for extension
in parallel with 1/4" connectors. $500 obo for all, will separate,
trade. Could be an excessive machine for home stereo.

I recently built a small 4 x 8" cabinet because I found a few
commercial 8" speakers and just wanted to see how it would work. It
sounds pretty good, but I figure the drivers will probably only handle
about 10 - 15 watts each, so the whole cabinet will only handle about
40 - 60 watts, and you should really limit it to  40 or less just to
be safe. I used it with my Marshall 50 watt amp to about 50% volume,
sounded sweet. Open back. I'm looking for strap handles for it, and no
corners yet, black paint, 2 jack cup/parallel $40 OBO, trade.

I'm in Joliet IL, west side. Remember, I'll take trades for other
items too, will consider anything interesting. It doesn't have to be
musical. I'm particularly interested in a laptop/desktop computer,
hand percussion; especially congas or a larger djembe, a Gibson
Blueshawk; preferably somewhat trashed so I can modify it with a strat
trem bridge,, other good effects, a really good sounding 5 watt tube
amp, good audio drivers, film or digital photographic stuff -
particularly a 35mm film scanner; 35mm and 120 B&W film, processing
chemicals, DSLR. Metalworking, stone/lapidary or woodworking tools –
mainly could use a larger radial arm saw metalworking lathe or mill.
High MPG economy pickup truck/van. I'd also swap a couple of
interesting broken or beat guitars for one of these, or a collection
of good parts. 815 726 2220.

Wow!  I'm replying to a 2 1/2 year old message.  I wonder, are you
there?

Personally, I'm kind of liking the 7/8th scale of the Yamaha CS40.

http://www.yamaha.com/guitars/products/productdetail/0,,CNTID%
25253D60075%252526CTID%25253D600026%252526CNTYP%25253DPRODUCT,00.html

Actually, I think a 15/16th scale would be really cool, if it
existed.  Silly as it may seem, I would want a nylon, steel string,
and F-hole Florentine cut-away hollow body electric with these (15/16
scale classical) sort of dimensions because I hate the transition
between all my guitars.

Now, I'm wondering about how electric guitars have an arc to the
fingerboard.  I've been feeling that perhaps the classical could use
a bit of an arc like that.  Maybe not as much as the electric, but
still, some.  Tell me, how would that be better?  How would it be
worse?  Why don't classicals have an arc?

Here's another thing that could change everything that needs to be
considered...  http://www.novaxguitars.com/

A particularly interesting link at their site...
http://www.novaxguitars.com/info/technical.html

What was that all about?  The harmonics that each string, having its
own scale length, will give off?  The squeak of each string?  Its
playability?  I wish they had a left handed one for me to try out.

Anyhow, please do give me your thoughts on all this.  Sound cool, or
am I just a nut?

Thanks,
Marco



--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, darrin smith
<hairyar5e@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am a designer and beginner luthier, I am designing a
> classical guitar and would love input from you all.
> As you all are players, collectors and builders you
> dictate what I make to sell.
>
> I look forward to some great feedback!
>
> many thanks
> Darrin Smith
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>

Why don't classical guitars have an arc to the fingerboard?  Is it just
because of tradition?  How might it be better if it did?  How might it
be worse?  THANK YOU!

Hey, doesn't scale length also affect string gauge needed because of
changes in string tension?

Also, I noticed you had put up some post about what
collectors/players want...  You might want to see what I put up a
long time ago...

http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/guitarluthiersnetwork/message/172

Also, I was thinking that a steel string, and even an electric, with
a wide neck like a classical might be cool.






--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, darrin smith
<hairyar5e@...> wrote:
>
> What wood looks the best for guitar bindings?  Also
> does scale length effect anything other than
> playabilty?
>
> Darrin Smith
>
>
>
> _______________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now.
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush
>

Yo dude, I don't know nothing, but I once saw that these guys had
done some research on how scale lengths affect harmonics...  It was a
pretty cool article, although, their research was limited.  I'd like
to see more!!!  Geesh, it's been years since I've thought about
it...  I think this is it...

http://www.novaxguitars.com/info/technical.html

I always get the word NOVAX confused with NEXUS, so it takes me a
while to find it.  lol

I was thinking of playing a 23" length.  I think it turned out that
23" sounded bad to them.  Let me know if it helped.

Adios,
Marco




--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, darrin smith
<hairyar5e@...> wrote:
>
> What wood looks the best for guitar bindings?  Also
> does scale length effect anything other than
> playabilty?
>
> Darrin Smith
>
>
>
> _______________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now.
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush
>

I only recently got into playing electric guitar and I have two
beauties that I enjoy playing, a 2006 Gibson ES 137 and a 1987 Fender
Telecaster.

However, I got the eBay bug and purchased a really beautiful Samick
FA-2 (a three-pick-up Tele copy) body that needs a neck and a little
work. To cut a long story short, I purchased a Tele neck copy and
this weekend I lacquered it. Not a bad job, it needs a little
sanding, but I think I can polish it out and make it work.

But that's not the real problem: I purchased replacement pick-ups --
a Gibson humbucker, two Rio Grande single coils, and even got a new
pickguard to accomodate the smaller, standard-size Tele pick ups (the
Samick game with longer Danelectro lipsticks that were dodgy
according to the previous owner).

Anyway, to cut a long story short, I unscrewed all the access routes
to the electronics this weekend and, well, the only way to describe
it is that I went into shock. It doesn't look complicated, but the
wiring colors on its current pickups are different than the wires on
the replacements. Can someone talk me off the ledge. Can I do this?
It doesn't seem complicated, but ...

Thanks, Anthony
p.s. how do i clean and refurbish a rosewood fretboard?

--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, darrin smith
<hairyar5e@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am a designer and beginner luthier, I am designing a
> classical guitar and would love input from you all.
> As you all are players, collectors and builders you
> dictate what I make to sell.
>

One thing that isn't standard on a traditional classical guitar but
very useful is a cutaway. I had a guitar built for me by luthier Brad
Goodman

http://www.goodmanguitars.com/index.html

  and this one element makes the guitar much more playable.

Cheers everyone!!
I'm a guitar fanatic. I've put my guitar playing ambitions on hold
until I finish college at which point I wish to start building guitars
as well. I'm in the process of buying tools and reading books. I hope
to start buying and storing/seasoning wood soon. My question to you
all good folk is: Where does one find information on using nomex and
building double-tops? Is the information available to everyone or is
it strictly proprietary? Surely I could and should expirement but I'd
like to know how to get started. I know I'm a long way off from using
these techniques, but I'd at least like to know if the information is
out there.

Thanks.

--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, darrin smith
<hairyar5e@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am a designer and beginner luthier, I am designing a
> classical guitar and would love input from you all.
> As you all are players, collectors and builders you
> dictate what I make to sell.
>
> I look forward to some great feedback!
>
> many thanks
> Darrin Smith
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>

You know what I've haven't seen any of, is a steel string acoustic
with a 2" fingerboard width at nut like is found on classicals.  The
steel strings are always something like 1 11/16th" wide.  People I
know agree with me when I say that I need 2" for better fingerpicking.

Adios,
Marco

Nothing to worry about. Any good Luthier should be able to make it look
proportionate. The are a lot of smaller scaled Guitars around. One thing I have
noticed on a smaller scale is, I like to use heavier strings to get the same
feel as a longer scale. Maybe it's just me, but light strings just feel too
light on a smaller scaled neck. I have a few Guitars, some with full scale
necks, some with smaller scaled necks. I tend to like the smaller scale better
myself, because of the size of my hands. Those five fret stretches are a lot
easier that way.

Micheal


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Mark Emilio Fleener
   To: guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 7:24 AM
   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] Short scale length with full size body?


   I was going to hire a luthier to build me a couple of customized
   acoustic guitars, one nylon and one steel string, and I thought I
   should educate myself on the kind of things he/she will be coming
   across trying to please me.

   The thing about this guitar is that it would have a 22 15/16" scale
   length with a full size body... I may be wrong, but I guess it's
   kinda like a jumbo guitar that got scaled down 10 or 11%. Hhmmmmmmm,
   is that all there is to it? Am I making things more difficult than
   they are? Or.................................

   Either I loose distance (relatively speaking) between the nut and
   neck/body joint... WHICH I'D RATHER NOT!!! or the bridge moves up on
   the soundboard... The problem with that is that the bridge won't be
   centered on the lower bout anymore, which I guess would affect the
   transfer of sound from the bridge throughout the entire soundboard....
   Maybe this can be counteracted with a luthier that has an exceptional
   understanding of creative fanning techniques. Somehow I doubt that,
   seems like wishful thinking to me. So maybe I should just alter the
   relationship between the bouts by moving the waist up about an 1" or
   something... Then the lower bout would be bigger allowing the bridge
   to be centered, but then the upper bout is smaller than it was
   before... Hhmmmmmmmmm, that relationship change a lot!!! How's that
   gonna sound? Could that still sound as good as a guitar with "normal"
   bout relations??? and what's all that do to the soundhole? What do I
   do??????

   Oh ya, I think I'd like the steel string to have a cutaway.

   Thanks for the advice,
   Mark





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I was going to hire a luthier to build me a couple of customized
acoustic guitars, one nylon and one steel string, and I thought I
should educate myself on the kind of things he/she will be coming
across trying to please me.

The thing about this guitar is that it would have a 22 15/16" scale
length with a full size body...  I may be wrong, but I guess it's
kinda like a jumbo guitar that got scaled down 10 or 11%.  Hhmmmmmmm,
is that all there is to it?  Am I making things more difficult than
they are?  Or.................................

Either I loose distance (relatively speaking) between the nut and
neck/body joint... WHICH I'D RATHER NOT!!! or the bridge moves up on
the soundboard...  The problem with that is that the bridge won't be
centered on the lower bout anymore, which I guess would affect the
transfer of sound from the bridge throughout the entire soundboard....
  Maybe this can be counteracted with a luthier that has an exceptional
understanding of creative fanning techniques.  Somehow I doubt that,
seems like wishful thinking to me.  So maybe I should just alter the
relationship between the bouts by moving the waist up about an 1" or
something...  Then the lower bout would be bigger allowing the bridge
to be centered, but then the upper bout is smaller than it was
before...  Hhmmmmmmmmm, that relationship change a lot!!!  How's that
gonna sound?  Could that still sound as good as a guitar with "normal"
bout relations??? and what's all that do to the soundhole?  What do I
do??????

Oh ya, I think I'd like the steel string to have a cutaway.

Thanks for the advice,
Mark

Titebond is basically just PVA that takes a little longer to set up, and is
just a little tackier.
So, you will do great with what you have. I do however use hide glue for all
the connections
I might have to take apart at some time in the future, like the fretboard,
neck joint, top and back to the sides.
Have A Great!
   Micheal


----- Original Message -----
From: "numanhas99" <numanhas99@...>
To: <guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 3:39 PM
Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] glues


> Titebond seems to be pretty much athe standard glue for building
> instruments from what i can see from various posts around the
> web/various groups.
>
> My biggest problem with that is that here in the UK it is not readily
> available. Does anyone have an equivilent/alterantive? after all UK is
> domiated by  three or four (Depending on location) big DIY chains who
> do not stock it, and other than a few specialist retailers almost
> nobody else stands a chance.
>
> Just to make things a little more difficult I live in the back of
> beyond so maybe I'll just have to use PVA.
>
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
>
> many thanks in advance
>
> Numanhas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Titebond seems to be pretty much athe standard glue for building
instruments from what i can see from various posts around the
web/various groups.

My biggest problem with that is that here in the UK it is not readily
available. Does anyone have an equivilent/alterantive? after all UK is
domiated by  three or four (Depending on location) big DIY chains who
do not stock it, and other than a few specialist retailers almost
nobody else stands a chance.

Just to make things a little more difficult I live in the back of
beyond so maybe I'll just have to use PVA.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

many thanks in advance

Numanhas

"Raffiniert ist der Herr Gott, aber boshaft ist er nicht"
-Albert Einstein-
(Subtle is the Lord, but not malicious)

Merry Christmas!!!
Happy New Year!!!

Carlos

Happy Holidays to you all! :-)

Wren
List Owner

http://spaces.msn.com/members/classical-guitars/

keen to hear builders thoughts

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hi

I am a designer and beginner luthier, I am designing a
classical guitar and would love input from you all.
As you all are players, collectors and builders you
dictate what I make to sell.

I look forward to some great feedback!

many thanks
Darrin Smith



____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

Hi all

I am looking for a guitar to buy, I am fussy and it
needs to have a big spanish warm sound.  I prefer
cedar for soundboard, so if anyone knows where I can
get a guitar send me a reply with cost and all
relevant info.

cheers
Darrin



__________________________________
Discover Yahoo!
Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/

Hi all

I am looking for a guitar to buy, I am fussy and it
needs to have a big spanish warm sound.  I prefer
cedar for soundboard, so if anyone knows where I can
get a guitar send me a reply with cost and all
relevant info.

cheers
Darrin



__________________________________
Discover Yahoo!
Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html

I have quite a few heavily flamed 5A bookmatched guitar top sets for
sale if anyone is interested. All sets are two pieces of bookmatched
flamed maple thickness sanded at 150 grit to either 3/4 or 11/16ths of
an inch thick per set. all sets are at least 20 inches long, some are
as long as 23 inches and are a minimum of 7 1/2 inches wide some sets
are as wide as 9 1/2 inches. These measurements are per board not
total so a minimum sized set would turn out as 15 inches wide when
glued together. All sets are finished sanded on both sides of each
board to 150 grit and are very acurate. both edges of both boards in
each set are joined as well so you can choose which way you prefer the
bookmatch. I have individual pics that I can send you if you are
interested. Prices start at $150 per set American dollars. I can be
reached at assenineone@... or at curleymaple2@... I hate to
part with these but I have way too many on hand and I aquire more on a
weekly basis. This wood is way too gorgeous to go to waste. Contact me
soon before they are gone.

Jack

Hi Michael

Thanks for your reply, I will be using solidworks and
will make changes internally to the strutting etc.  I
want the basic dimensions for project

cheers
Darrin

--- BlueRocco <BlueRocco@...> wrote:
> Check out http://www.mimf.com/ or Stewmac. I'm not
> sure if you can get the
> digital form but if you are a CAD student, you
> should probably do your own
> drawing anyway.
> Good luck!
>
> Micheal
>
> Cad Designer & Guitar Builder
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "darrin smith" <hairyar5e@...>
> To: "Guitar Luthier"
> <guitarluthier@yahoogroups.com>; "Guitar Luthiers
> Network" <guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com>;
> "Guitar Makers Forum"
> <guitarmakersforum@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 3:12 PM
> Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] guitar plans
>
>
> > Hi Everyone
> >
> > I am a design student looking for guitar plans for
> me
> > to do a CAD project with.  I would love either
> steel,
> > classic or archtop plans please in digital format
> so I
> > can print of and use for dimensions.
> >
> > many thanks
> > Darrin
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

toshea!!!!!

BlueRocco <BlueRocco@...> wrote:Check out http://www.mimf.com/ or Stewmac.
I'm not sure if you can get the
digital form but if you are a CAD student, you should probably do your own
drawing anyway.
Good luck!

Micheal

Cad Designer & Guitar Builder




----- Original Message -----
From: "darrin smith" <hairyar5e@...>
To: "Guitar Luthier" <guitarluthier@yahoogroups.com>; "Guitar Luthiers
Network" <guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com>; "Guitar Makers Forum"
<guitarmakersforum@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 3:12 PM
Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] guitar plans


> Hi Everyone
>
> I am a design student looking for guitar plans for me
> to do a CAD project with.  I would love either steel,
> classic or archtop plans please in digital format so I
> can print of and use for dimensions.
>
> many thanks
> Darrin
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>




---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

    To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/guitarluthiersnetwork/

    To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
guitarluthiersnetwork-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

    Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Check out http://www.mimf.com/ or Stewmac. I'm not sure if you can get the
digital form but if you are a CAD student, you should probably do your own
drawing anyway.
Good luck!

Micheal

Cad Designer & Guitar Builder




----- Original Message -----
From: "darrin smith" <hairyar5e@...>
To: "Guitar Luthier" <guitarluthier@yahoogroups.com>; "Guitar Luthiers
Network" <guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com>; "Guitar Makers Forum"
<guitarmakersforum@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 3:12 PM
Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] guitar plans


> Hi Everyone
>
> I am a design student looking for guitar plans for me
> to do a CAD project with.  I would love either steel,
> classic or archtop plans please in digital format so I
> can print of and use for dimensions.
>
> many thanks
> Darrin
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Hi Everyone

I am a design student looking for guitar plans for me
to do a CAD project with.  I would love either steel,
classic or archtop plans please in digital format so I
can print of and use for dimensions.

many thanks
Darrin

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

"Mailbox Rock"

http://groups.yahoo.com/grou
p/guitarluthiersnetwork/link
s

Feel free to add a link,
then let the group know
about it.

Wren
List Owner

My lattice braced guitar is very bright in the trebles
and I would like to try a warmer string, any suggestions?



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250

Who was selling those lovely Italian made tuners
please?

Darrin



_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com

Cool - Let's see!
BlueRocco
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: darrin smith
   To: Guitar Luthier ; Guitar Luthiers Network ; Guitar Makers Forum
   Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 12:11 AM
   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] Brazilian rosewood


   I have the brazilian here now and have pics if anyone
   wants a look?

   Cheers
   Darrin :o)




   __________________________________
   Do you Yahoo!?
   New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
   http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail




   Yahoo! Groups Links









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have the brazilian here now and have pics if anyone
wants a look?

Cheers
Darrin :o)




__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

Rocco
the wood still hasn't arrived yet but I had it cut to
acoustic guitar size.

thanks
Darrin
p.s.I emailed pics to Vince Pawless to stick on his
site.

--- BlueRocco <BlueRocco@...> wrote:

> Darrin -
>    I think they pull the pics to stop porn. You
> might try posting the pics on the photo page for a
> few days. It would be cool to see some deterrent
> types of raw wood anyway, whether for sale or not! I
> just got a Brazilian guitar in for repair, looks
> like rosewood but you can't be sure. It would be
> nice to have a comparison shot to look at. By the
> way, did you find out how big those pieces were?
> BlueRocco
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: darrin smith
>   To: Guitar Luthier ; Guitar Luthiers Network ;
> Guitar Makers Forum
>   Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 11:09 PM
>   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] african
> blackwood
>
>
>
>   Sorry for the emails everyone, for some reason the
>   attachments are being added ok but not coming
> through?
>    If anyone wants pics details etc just email me
>   directly.
>
>   Thanks
>   Darrin
>
>
>
>
>   _______________________________
>   Do you Yahoo!?
>   Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter
> now.
>   http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush
>
>
>
>
>   Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail