Rocco
the wood still hasn't arrived yet but I had it cut to
acoustic guitar size.

thanks
Darrin
p.s.I emailed pics to Vince Pawless to stick on his
site.

--- BlueRocco <BlueRocco@...> wrote:

> Darrin -
>    I think they pull the pics to stop porn. You
> might try posting the pics on the photo page for a
> few days. It would be cool to see some deterrent
> types of raw wood anyway, whether for sale or not! I
> just got a Brazilian guitar in for repair, looks
> like rosewood but you can't be sure. It would be
> nice to have a comparison shot to look at. By the
> way, did you find out how big those pieces were?
> BlueRocco
>
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: darrin smith
>   To: Guitar Luthier ; Guitar Luthiers Network ;
> Guitar Makers Forum
>   Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 11:09 PM
>   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] african
> blackwood
>
>
>
>   Sorry for the emails everyone, for some reason the
>   attachments are being added ok but not coming
> through?
>    If anyone wants pics details etc just email me
>   directly.
>
>   Thanks
>   Darrin
>
>
>
>
>   _______________________________
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> now.
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>
>
>
>
>   Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




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Darrin -
    I think they pull the pics to stop porn. You might try posting the pics on
the photo page for a few days. It would be cool to see some deterrent types of
raw wood anyway, whether for sale or not! I just got a Brazilian guitar in for
repair, looks like rosewood but you can't be sure. It would be nice to have a
comparison shot to look at. By the way, did you find out how big those pieces
were?
BlueRocco


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: darrin smith
   To: Guitar Luthier ; Guitar Luthiers Network ; Guitar Makers Forum
   Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 11:09 PM
   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] african blackwood



   Sorry for the emails everyone, for some reason the
   attachments are being added ok but not coming through?
    If anyone wants pics details etc just email me
   directly.

   Thanks
   Darrin




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sorry for the emails everyone, for some reason the
attachments are being added ok but not coming through?
  If anyone wants pics details etc just email me
directly.

Thanks
Darrin




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Try again..........




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

These are shots of the sides, hard to show true beauty
of this very rare wood.  Will have someshots of the
Brazilian shortly........  Anyone genuinly interested
in buying this set (I have only one at this point in
time as so rare) reply to me and I will give you a
price.

Regards
Darrin



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What wood looks the best for guitar bindings?  Also
does scale length effect anything other than
playabilty?

Darrin Smith



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Whatcha got dude?...And what do you want for it?
BlueRocco
Bluerocco@...

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: darrin smith
   To: guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 11:51 PM
   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] back and side sets


   Hi
   Just to let everyone know I have awesome quality
   brazilian rosewood available for sale, my wood is not
   stump wood and is very old.  It is also 1/4 sawn, I
   also have a perfect set of 1/4 sawn african blackwood
   available with NO flaws.  Email for pics.

   regards
   Darrin



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi
Just to let everyone know I have awesome quality
brazilian rosewood available for sale, my wood is not
stump wood and is very old.  It is also 1/4 sawn, I
also have a perfect set of 1/4 sawn african blackwood
available with NO flaws.  Email for pics.

regards
Darrin



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Ahoy - I'm here.
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: aztecpizza42@...
   To: guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 11:40 PM
   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] Hello!


   Hello!  Is anybody around?





   Yahoo! Groups Links









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello!  Is anybody around?

Hey Brothers and Sistas!

Just wanted to give you the link to subscrible to my Yahoo group
that's "TAYLOR MAYED" for all you fans and friends that love and/or
play a replica of "The Ol' Lady" !!!!

If you fit into this catagory and would like to discuss at any level
of detail the Red Special and it's family that's out there feel free
to stop by, join and chat at:

http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/BHMRSGUITAROWNERS/

You'll find the group to be very energetic and happy to help with
any questions you might have!

Hope to see you there... thanks and best regards!

Michael J Kramer

MJK AudioVisuals
a Burns USA affiliate
7365 Main Street Ste 208
Stratford, Connecticut
USA 06614-1300
203.375-3306 work & cell

Thanks, Barry.  I'll try the wood glue method.

- Mike

--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, Barry de Fleron <guitrdoc@y...>
wrote:
> Mike,
> I'd mask off the top except for the area you need and try a heat lamp.I've
also used an iron.I'd stay away from epoxy...fill the missing
wood areas with super glue and sand level.Use a quality wood glue for the
bridge.If the top is warped ,i use a device called the bridge
doctor.Flattens the top and acts as a sound post..pretty cool...get it from
Stewart-Macdonald Supply.
> Hope this helps,
> doc
>
> michael_recchione <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> I have an old (mid-1970s) Aria 6-string acoustic that has more
> sentimental than cash value.  Unfortunately, the bridge finally gave
> way a couple of months ago, taking some of the top wood with it.  I
> finished removing the old bridge with a hot knife, and managed to
> limit the damage to the top, but the bridge had already pulled up
> some of the wood when it started coming off.  This particular guitar
> was made without a bridge backing plate, and there wasn't enough
> undamaged top wood under the bridge to trust, so I made a backing
> plate out of hard maple and glued it in with hot hide glue.  I planed
> the bottom of the bridge flat (it had twisted significantly), and
> glued it back on also with hot hide glue.
>
> Unfortunately, the glue on the bridge didn't hold - it looks like the
> top also warped some, and the seal wasn't perfect.  I'm now
> considering re-glueing it with epoxy to fill the gaps, but don't know
> if it will be necessary to remove all the hide glue, and if it is,
> how.  Can anyone help?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> - Mike
>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mike,
I'd mask off the top except for the area you need and try a heat lamp.I've also
used an iron.I'd stay away from epoxy...fill the missing wood areas with super
glue and sand level.Use a quality wood glue for the bridge.If the top is warped
,i use a device called the bridge doctor.Flattens the top and acts as a sound
post..pretty cool...get it from Stewart-Macdonald Supply.
Hope this helps,
doc

michael_recchione <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
I have an old (mid-1970s) Aria 6-string acoustic that has more
sentimental than cash value.  Unfortunately, the bridge finally gave
way a couple of months ago, taking some of the top wood with it.  I
finished removing the old bridge with a hot knife, and managed to
limit the damage to the top, but the bridge had already pulled up
some of the wood when it started coming off.  This particular guitar
was made without a bridge backing plate, and there wasn't enough
undamaged top wood under the bridge to trust, so I made a backing
plate out of hard maple and glued it in with hot hide glue.  I planed
the bottom of the bridge flat (it had twisted significantly), and
glued it back on also with hot hide glue.

Unfortunately, the glue on the bridge didn't hold - it looks like the
top also warped some, and the seal wasn't perfect.  I'm now
considering re-glueing it with epoxy to fill the gaps, but don't know
if it will be necessary to remove all the hide glue, and if it is,
how.  Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance,

- Mike


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I have an old (mid-1970s) Aria 6-string acoustic that has more
sentimental than cash value.  Unfortunately, the bridge finally gave
way a couple of months ago, taking some of the top wood with it.  I
finished removing the old bridge with a hot knife, and managed to
limit the damage to the top, but the bridge had already pulled up
some of the wood when it started coming off.  This particular guitar
was made without a bridge backing plate, and there wasn't enough
undamaged top wood under the bridge to trust, so I made a backing
plate out of hard maple and glued it in with hot hide glue.  I planed
the bottom of the bridge flat (it had twisted significantly), and
glued it back on also with hot hide glue.

Unfortunately, the glue on the bridge didn't hold - it looks like the
top also warped some, and the seal wasn't perfect.  I'm now
considering re-glueing it with epoxy to fill the gaps, but don't know
if it will be necessary to remove all the hide glue, and if it is,
how.  Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance,

- Mike

Hello,
I'm here. Haven't heard much since I sign up, but every little bit helps. What
are you up to?

Micheal..... from QuarterSmith Guitars
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: guitarpartsusa
   To: guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 7:58 AM
   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] Hello


   Is this group still active?


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yupper!
   -----Original Message-----
   From: guitarpartsusa [mailto:guitarpartsusa@...]
   Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 9:58 AM
   To: guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [Guitar Luthiers Network] Hello


   Is this group still active?


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Is this group still active?

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Hi,

More or less what I do now but I like the idea of hemostats.

I would like to learn about re fretting - is there a source of knowledge on
the net, please.

Cheers Will

At 09:17 AM 9/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>What i usually do is use twine tied to the pots pulled thru the respective
>holes...the switch you can usually feed thru by hand or with
>hemostats..the input jack ..i use a 1/4" male ground down to fit thru
>input hole..plug in and pull back thru..hope this helps.
>doc

What i usually do is use twine tied to the pots pulled thru the respective
holes...the switch you can usually feed thru by hand or with hemostats..the
input jack ..i use a 1/4" male ground down to fit thru input hole..plug in and
pull back thru..hope this helps.
doc

bilbomusic <Will@...> wrote:
I am in the middle of rewiring an Epi semi and thought I would seek
out people who do similar work - so here goes!

What are people`s methods for rethreading the electrics back into a
semi? I generally wire up the loom, feed it through an F hole and
then use wire to pull the pots, switch and jack through to their
positions. It means, though, that I rely on the shakeproof washer to
secure things in position whilst they are tightened. Does anybody
know of a tool to hold things in place - I tried Stuart Macdonald but
they don`t do anything.

Thanks,

Will

www.excellentleads.com


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am in the middle of rewiring an Epi semi and thought I would seek
out people who do similar work - so here goes!

What are people`s methods for rethreading the electrics back into a
semi? I generally wire up the loom, feed it through an F hole and
then use wire to pull the pots, switch and jack through to their
positions. It means, though, that I rely on the shakeproof washer to
secure things in position whilst they are tightened. Does anybody
know of a tool to hold things in place - I tried Stuart Macdonald but
they don`t do anything.

Thanks,

Will

www.excellentleads.com

Well, I don't know what's up with RV these days.  The workshops were
going to be in June, and they'd call me.  I think the teacher
cancelled out.  Guess the workshops are postponed indefinitely.
Meanwhile, the 2003 Fall semester starts in August.  I wonder if
they'll still offer the workshops while the full time course is in
session?

Wren

--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, "Wren
<aztecpizza42@y...>" <aztecpizza42@y...> wrote:
> Hey, Roberto-Venn is now offering 2/3 day workshops!  This makes life
> much easier for a local like me.  Anybody else here from Phoenix, AZ?
>  Check out the R-V website at http://www.roberto-venn.com
>
> Wren

Hey, wake up!  Nap time's over!  This list has been asleep since
January!  So...what's new?  I bought my first electric guitar
recently; a semi-hollow body by Washburn.  Love it!

Wren

--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, "Wren
<aztecpizza42@y...>" <aztecpizza42@y...> wrote:
> Anybody got a copy of "Guitarmaking: Tradition and Technology" by
> Cumpiano and Natelson?  I am new to lutherie, so I thought I'd start
> with books.  This book is intense! I had no idea there was so much
> involved in just making a truss rod!
>
> Wren
> (your cute, female list owner)
Actually it's the only book I have. I had been eyeing it at B&N back
home for a while when I spotted it in Hershey PA at the outlets for
$7 and snatched it up. Such a deal.

I don't know if it's the best, but it contains that kind of detail on
just about every facet of the process. Seems like the book was
assembled with the same care and attention to detail that the
instruments were.

Someday I'll have the time and fortitude to start my own instrument.
Till then the book will have to do.

Happy reading. Ray.

Anybody got a copy of "Guitarmaking: Tradition and Technology" by
Cumpiano and Natelson?  I am new to lutherie, so I thought I'd start
with books.  This book is intense! I had no idea there was so much
involved in just making a truss rod!

Wren
(your cute, female list owner)

Hey, Roberto-Venn is now offering 2/3 day workshops!  This makes life
much easier for a local like me.  Anybody else here from Phoenix, AZ?
  Check out the R-V website at http://www.roberto-venn.com

Wren

--- In guitarluthiersnetwork@yahoogroups.com, The Leftoverking
<leftoverking@y...> wrote:
> Myrtle does nor compare to rosewood, but sounds good.  Not as
bright as maple bodys, but warmer.  That particular guitar was one of
my earlier projects and was built a bit on the heavy side, but played
rather nicely.  I sold it for six hundred bucks because I needed the
money, and accepted an offer below what I was asking at the store it
was on consighnment at.  Now I try to get more, as my skills have
greatly improved.  I have a basic price sheet on my web page at
http://www.reninet.com/~langdon/price.html
>
>
> Jeff
>
> jeff@t...
>
> LangdonGuitars
Wow. That was a great deal. That picture was so pretty it would have
been worth that just to use it for room accent. <grin> I'll check the
page out. Thanks.

Myrtle does nor compare to rosewood, but sounds good.  Not as bright as maple
bodys, but warmer.  That particular guitar was one of my earlier projects and
was built a bit on the heavy side, but played rather nicely.  I sold it for six
hundred bucks because I needed the money, and accepted an offer below what I was
asking at the store it was on consighnment at.  Now I try to get more, as my
skills have greatly improved.  I have a basic price sheet on my web page at
http://www.reninet.com/~langdon/price.html


Jeff

jeff@...

LangdonGuitars





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