Hi, I'm parting out a keyboard assembly.  If anybody needs replacement keys,
please contact me off list.

thanks,
TF
babysealclub@...

Have just switched everything on for a rainy afternoons knob twiddling to find
mono-poly is dead.
I suspect/hope fault is an internal fuse (in power supply?-UK version)
How do i access this easily to replace.
Many thanks
MrClunk

Hello

a.clunk wrote:

> Have just switched everything on for a rainy afternoons knob twiddling to find
mono-poly is dead.
> I suspect/hope fault is an internal fuse (in power supply?-UK version)
> How do i access this easily to replace.
There are two fuses with 1.6 Ampere slow blow each on the low voltage
side of the transformer. They are located at the power supply pcb, which
is located at the rear bottom of the synth.

You have to unscrew the four srews at the boarders of the frontpanel and
open up the frontpanel.

Florian

Hello Dave, hello simplemindsfan,

welcome to the group! Though the mail traffic here is not a rush hour,
the group can provide great help. Please feel free to introduce yourself.

All the best!

Florian

Hello Nicola, hello sullik1,

welcome to the group! Though the traffic here is sometimes low,
the group can provide great help. Please feel free to introduce yourself.

All the best!

Florian

Hello everyone -

Joined the group after I acquired a M/P w/SynJack MIDI about 3 years ago and
figured it is probably time to say hello -- so hello to everyone -- and ask for
advice on a mod I am about to make.

As my first step I contemplated chopping off its keyboard as I really liked the
look of some M/Ps out there that were turned into modules - but soon realized
there is an important synergy between its keyboard & its front panel functions
that would reduce its capabilities w/o its local keyboard - so chose to leave it
as is.

So instead I replaced its aging (and crumbling) cabinet with a synthwood.com
blonde curly maple cabinet.   The synth looks really good with the new cabinet.

My next step is to install a Polysix chorus/efx board I rescued from an
old/semi-dead Polysix I found.  Has anyone attempted to make such a mod?   
Figured I would insert the efx board in the last stage of the signal output path
- seems that part is straightforward - but concerned about the power
requirements for the efx board and the M/P in general.

Any advice?   Can anyone share their experience in modifying/labeling the front
panel?  I manage to keep a bunch of original knobs from the dead P6, wanting to
preserve a consistent look, and identified empty space along the upper left
quadrant of the front panel as ideal for installing the 2 pots/knobs and switch
to control the efx board.

Thanks!


Cheers -- Bill

Hello.

Just a few moments ago I was playing some music and all of a sudden my mono/poly
stopped working.  I tried to flip the switch and nothing happens; no lights or
sound.  (I didn't see or smell smoke)

I opened it up and the fuses are all fine, but the transformer was so hot that I
couldn't keep my finger on it for more than a moment (even now, 15 minutes later
it is still very warm).
I used the service manual and checked on board 356 for voltages and none of them
registered(5, 15, or -15).

I'm not sure what to do now.  I'm guessing the transformer died, but how can I
know for sure?  What would cause the transformer to just go out like that?  If
it is the transformer, does anyone here have a spare or know where to find one?

Thanks,
Chase

Hello Chase

first my usual disclaimer:
THIS MAIL DESCRIBS AN ACTION THAT REQUIRES TO OPEN THE CASE OF THE
MONOPOLY. THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY PEOPLE, WHO KNOW HOW TO HANDLE THE
DANGEROUS VOLTAGES INSIDE OF THE SYNTH PROPERLY WITHOUT ENDANGERING THE
LIFE OF OTHERS OR THEMSELVES!!! IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE REQUIRED
EXPERIENCE - KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF!!! DOING THE WRONG THINGS INSIDE AN
ELECTRICAL INSTRUMENT MAY KILL YOU OR PEOPLE, THAT RELY ON YOUR WORK. I
WARNED YOU. I REJECT ALL LIABILITY FOR ALL CONSEQUENCES OF THE FOLLOWING
INSTRUCTIONS!

> So even if I replace this fuse and it seems perfectly fine, wouldn't a
> fuse blowing be indicative of a problem?  There wasn't really a power
> surge as far as I could tell and I think this fuse is only a few years old.
It might(!) be indicative for a problem - especially because the
transformer was that hot.

I recommend the following procedure:
* Switch of the synth, and remove the powercable from the power outlet
in the wall.
* open up the synth
* take a thick and stabile sheet of paper and cover all parts at the
bottom and rear side of the synth right side of the transformer with it
(powerswitch, main fuse pcb, transformer-connections)
* Do NOT switch on the synth until you replaced the fuse.
* Remove both fuses on the powersupply pcb - still do not switch on the
synth.
* Disconnect all cables from the powersupply pcb with exception of the
cable coming from the transformer.
* Prepare a digital voltmeter, which can read DC and AC up to 50 volts.
* Connect the minus measuring cable to the wire coming out of the right
side of C14 (the largest capacitor on the right side of the power supply
pcb)
* Set the voltmeter to AC
* Plug in the power cable to the power outlet in the wall
* Switch the synth on
* Measure the voltage at the frontside contact of the fuse sockets => it
should read about 15 to 20 Volts, but both contacts should read the same
voltage
* Switch of the synth
* Insert good fuses to the sockets
* Set the voltmeter to DC and be prepared to measure immediately after
switching on the synth
* Switch on the synth
* Measure the voltage at the most rear contacts of diodes D2/D3 and
D4/D5. It should read somthing around 20 to 25 Volts DC; again I can not
tell now exactly what voltage, but it should be the same on both
measuring points.

If any of these measurements fails or if the fuse blows again, then get
the synth to a technician, who knows to handle this.

If the mesaurements before read ok, then:
* Measure the voltages at CN33. They should read from left to right:
+15V, -15V, +5V, 0V. The pins for -15 and +15 may read a little bit
different values like 14.98 or 15.02, but it should NOT be like -15.01
and 17.5; if this is the case, then switch off the synth and bring it to
a tech.
If both read a similar but wrong value like +13 and -13, then try to
adjust the voltage with the trim potentiometer VR3. VR3 affects both
voltages.
If +5V reads a slightly other value (like +5.02) it is ok. If it reads a
very different value (like 9.02), then switch off the synth and bring it
to a tech.


Florian

Chase,
If it turns out that you have a transformer down, I have one that came out of my
MonoPoly. I'm in the UK and my MP was for the US market so I changed the
transformer for one with a 240V UK primary winding. The one I pulled out is
marked with the following so you can check against yours:
BANDO
TA-006
BDI4B2-003A
Those three markings are on the left hand side and:
61-7981
100V
41.0V 37.0VA
These markings are on the right hand side.

Steve

--- In korg_mono-poly@yahoogroups.com, "plus_321" <plus_321@...> wrote:
>
> Hello.
>
> Just a few moments ago I was playing some music and all of a sudden my
mono/poly stopped working.  I tried to flip the switch and nothing happens; no
lights or sound.  (I didn't see or smell smoke)
>
> I opened it up and the fuses are all fine, but the transformer was so hot that
I couldn't keep my finger on it for more than a moment (even now, 15 minutes
later it is still very warm).
> I used the service manual and checked on board 356 for voltages and none of
them registered(5, 15, or -15).
>
> I'm not sure what to do now.  I'm guessing the transformer died, but how can I
know for sure?  What would cause the transformer to just go out like that?  If
it is the transformer, does anyone here have a spare or know where to find one?
>
> Thanks,
> Chase
>

Okay, I did the tests that you suggested and I think they came out okay.  I
didn't get the exact voltage range that you specified.

I got 25.37 VAC on the fuses and 33.78 VDC on the diodes, but the measurements
were consistent so I think it's fine.

I replaced the blown fuse and it's been running fine for a few hours now. 
Still, I can't help but wonder why the fuse went out.

I have another issue that's bothering me that, I believe, has been around since
I got this mono/poly.  It has a constant noise coming through the outputs that
almost sounds like data noise.  I can't seem to upload things now or I would put
up a sample.

A while ago, I found through experiementing that if I remove connector CN23 from
board 356, then the noise will go away.  I remember figuring out that this went
to the arpeggiator.  I also tested the connector pin to pin from the cable and
discovered that the second pin from the left is what creates the noise when
connected.  I looked through the service manual and found that this pin is for
2OCT arp mode.  I pulled it out of the connector, but the arp won't run without
it.

A while ago I remember thinking that it was the 8049c since the arp deals with
that so I ordered a replacement.  Well I just tried to swap the chips and the
issue remains so it isn't that.  I really need the arp on this guy, because that
is part of what makes it unique, but it is hard to deal with noise anymore.. 
Does this sound like maybe something you've seen or any suggestions on where to
look?

I replaced nearly all electrolytic capacitors, voltage regulators, and op amps
in this machine so I don't really have any idea what it could be.  However, I
will not go to a tech.  I took this very machine to a tech to fix this problem
and the result of that was 3 months away from my keyboard and 200 dollars from
my bank account.  I can not afford such extravagant fees.

I will appreciate any suggestions.  Otherwise, thank you for your time.

Chase

--- In korg_mono-poly@yahoogroups.com, Florian Anwander <fanwander@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Chase
>
> first my usual disclaimer:
> THIS MAIL DESCRIBS AN ACTION THAT REQUIRES TO OPEN THE CASE OF THE
> MONOPOLY. THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY PEOPLE, WHO KNOW HOW TO HANDLE THE
> DANGEROUS VOLTAGES INSIDE OF THE SYNTH PROPERLY WITHOUT ENDANGERING THE
> LIFE OF OTHERS OR THEMSELVES!!! IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE REQUIRED
> EXPERIENCE - KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF!!! DOING THE WRONG THINGS INSIDE AN
> ELECTRICAL INSTRUMENT MAY KILL YOU OR PEOPLE, THAT RELY ON YOUR WORK. I
> WARNED YOU. I REJECT ALL LIABILITY FOR ALL CONSEQUENCES OF THE FOLLOWING
> INSTRUCTIONS!
>
> > So even if I replace this fuse and it seems perfectly fine, wouldn't a
> > fuse blowing be indicative of a problem?  There wasn't really a power
> > surge as far as I could tell and I think this fuse is only a few years old.
> It might(!) be indicative for a problem - especially because the
> transformer was that hot.
>
> I recommend the following procedure:
> * Switch of the synth, and remove the powercable from the power outlet
> in the wall.
> * open up the synth
> * take a thick and stabile sheet of paper and cover all parts at the
> bottom and rear side of the synth right side of the transformer with it
> (powerswitch, main fuse pcb, transformer-connections)
> * Do NOT switch on the synth until you replaced the fuse.
> * Remove both fuses on the powersupply pcb - still do not switch on the
> synth.
> * Disconnect all cables from the powersupply pcb with exception of the
> cable coming from the transformer.
> * Prepare a digital voltmeter, which can read DC and AC up to 50 volts.
> * Connect the minus measuring cable to the wire coming out of the right
> side of C14 (the largest capacitor on the right side of the power supply
> pcb)
> * Set the voltmeter to AC
> * Plug in the power cable to the power outlet in the wall
> * Switch the synth on
> * Measure the voltage at the frontside contact of the fuse sockets => it
> should read about 15 to 20 Volts, but both contacts should read the same
> voltage
> * Switch of the synth
> * Insert good fuses to the sockets
> * Set the voltmeter to DC and be prepared to measure immediately after
> switching on the synth
> * Switch on the synth
> * Measure the voltage at the most rear contacts of diodes D2/D3 and
> D4/D5. It should read somthing around 20 to 25 Volts DC; again I can not
> tell now exactly what voltage, but it should be the same on both
> measuring points.
>
> If any of these measurements fails or if the fuse blows again, then get
> the synth to a technician, who knows to handle this.
>
> If the mesaurements before read ok, then:
> * Measure the voltages at CN33. They should read from left to right:
> +15V, -15V, +5V, 0V. The pins for -15 and +15 may read a little bit
> different values like 14.98 or 15.02, but it should NOT be like -15.01
> and 17.5; if this is the case, then switch off the synth and bring it to
> a tech.
> If both read a similar but wrong value like +13 and -13, then try to
> adjust the voltage with the trim potentiometer VR3. VR3 affects both
> voltages.
> If +5V reads a slightly other value (like +5.02) it is ok. If it reads a
> very different value (like 9.02), then switch off the synth and bring it
> to a tech.
>
>
> Florian
>

Hi Chase

if there is digital noise in the audio, then the problem is typically
wrong or missing grounding.

You may check the power rails with an oscilloscope, whether the digital
noise signal is on the powerrails.
If not: I would use an audio probe (like a multimeter probe, but
connected to an audio amp; ground connected separately) and go through
the complete signal path starting from the VCOs until the output socket.
   This should allow to narrow down the cause.

Florian


BTW: Swaping the 8049 doesn't help anything - and also it would have to
be a 8049 for a monopoly. This is a CPU, with embeded PROM. The PROM
content is written once at the factory; a 8049 from a Roland SH-101 is
something completely different from the one in the Korg MonoPoly. So you
need a chip which was produced especially for the related synth.



plus_321 wrote:
> Okay, I did the tests that you suggested and I think they came out okay.  I
didn't get the exact voltage range that you specified.
>
> I got 25.37 VAC on the fuses and 33.78 VDC on the diodes, but the measurements
were consistent so I think it's fine.
>
> I replaced the blown fuse and it's been running fine for a few hours now. 
Still, I can't help but wonder why the fuse went out.
>
> I have another issue that's bothering me that, I believe, has been around
since I got this mono/poly.  It has a constant noise coming through the outputs
that almost sounds like data noise.  I can't seem to upload things now or I
would put up a sample.
>
> A while ago, I found through experiementing that if I remove connector CN23
from board 356, then the noise will go away.  I remember figuring out that this
went to the arpeggiator.  I also tested the connector pin to pin from the cable
and discovered that the second pin from the left is what creates the noise when
connected.  I looked through the service manual and found that this pin is for
2OCT arp mode.  I pulled it out of the connector, but the arp won't run without
it.
>
> A while ago I remember thinking that it was the 8049c since the arp deals with
that so I ordered a replacement.  Well I just tried to swap the chips and the
issue remains so it isn't that.  I really need the arp on this guy, because that
is part of what makes it unique, but it is hard to deal with noise anymore.. 
Does this sound like maybe something you've seen or any suggestions on where to
look?
>
> I replaced nearly all electrolytic capacitors, voltage regulators, and op amps
in this machine so I don't really have any idea what it could be.  However, I
will not go to a tech.  I took this very machine to a tech to fix this problem
and the result of that was 3 months away from my keyboard and 200 dollars from
my bank account.  I can not afford such extravagant fees.
>
> I will appreciate any suggestions.  Otherwise, thank you for your time.
>
> Chase
>
> --- In korg_mono-poly@yahoogroups.com, Florian Anwander <fanwander@...> wrote:
>
>>Hello Chase
>>
>>first my usual disclaimer:
>>THIS MAIL DESCRIBS AN ACTION THAT REQUIRES TO OPEN THE CASE OF THE
>>MONOPOLY. THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY PEOPLE, WHO KNOW HOW TO HANDLE THE
>>DANGEROUS VOLTAGES INSIDE OF THE SYNTH PROPERLY WITHOUT ENDANGERING THE
>>LIFE OF OTHERS OR THEMSELVES!!! IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE REQUIRED
>>EXPERIENCE - KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF!!! DOING THE WRONG THINGS INSIDE AN
>>ELECTRICAL INSTRUMENT MAY KILL YOU OR PEOPLE, THAT RELY ON YOUR WORK. I
>>WARNED YOU. I REJECT ALL LIABILITY FOR ALL CONSEQUENCES OF THE FOLLOWING
>>INSTRUCTIONS!
>>
>>
>>>So even if I replace this fuse and it seems perfectly fine, wouldn't a
>>>fuse blowing be indicative of a problem?  There wasn't really a power
>>>surge as far as I could tell and I think this fuse is only a few years old.
>>
>>It might(!) be indicative for a problem - especially because the
>>transformer was that hot.
>>
>>I recommend the following procedure:
>>* Switch of the synth, and remove the powercable from the power outlet
>>in the wall.
>>* open up the synth
>>* take a thick and stabile sheet of paper and cover all parts at the
>>bottom and rear side of the synth right side of the transformer with it
>>(powerswitch, main fuse pcb, transformer-connections)
>>* Do NOT switch on the synth until you replaced the fuse.
>>* Remove both fuses on the powersupply pcb - still do not switch on the
>>synth.
>>* Disconnect all cables from the powersupply pcb with exception of the
>>cable coming from the transformer.
>>* Prepare a digital voltmeter, which can read DC and AC up to 50 volts.
>>* Connect the minus measuring cable to the wire coming out of the right
>>side of C14 (the largest capacitor on the right side of the power supply
>>pcb)
>>* Set the voltmeter to AC
>>* Plug in the power cable to the power outlet in the wall
>>* Switch the synth on
>>* Measure the voltage at the frontside contact of the fuse sockets => it
>>should read about 15 to 20 Volts, but both contacts should read the same
>>voltage
>>* Switch of the synth
>>* Insert good fuses to the sockets
>>* Set the voltmeter to DC and be prepared to measure immediately after
>>switching on the synth
>>* Switch on the synth
>>* Measure the voltage at the most rear contacts of diodes D2/D3 and
>>D4/D5. It should read somthing around 20 to 25 Volts DC; again I can not
>>tell now exactly what voltage, but it should be the same on both
>>measuring points.
>>
>>If any of these measurements fails or if the fuse blows again, then get
>>the synth to a technician, who knows to handle this.
>>
>>If the mesaurements before read ok, then:
>>* Measure the voltages at CN33. They should read from left to right:
>>+15V, -15V, +5V, 0V. The pins for -15 and +15 may read a little bit
>>different values like 14.98 or 15.02, but it should NOT be like -15.01
>>and 17.5; if this is the case, then switch off the synth and bring it to
>>a tech.
>>If both read a similar but wrong value like +13 and -13, then try to
>>adjust the voltage with the trim potentiometer VR3. VR3 affects both
>>voltages.
>>If +5V reads a slightly other value (like +5.02) it is ok. If it reads a
>>very different value (like 9.02), then switch off the synth and bring it
>>to a tech.
>>
>>
>>Florian
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Hi All- Does anybody know where in the Boston, MA. area I can take my MP to get
worked on?

It turns on but no longer spits out audio- either from the line out or the
headphone jack.

Thanks!

Pete

I tried to use an oscilloscope today to check the power rails.  I check them on
the 356 board, but the seemed fine and I could see any significant fluctuations.

I realize that when I unplug the VCA out connector or power input on the VCF
board then the noise becomes much louder.  So I was able to put the scope on the
output and see what it looks like.  It appears to be a constant frequency pulse
wave with a small cycle length, like 5-10%.  The noise doesn't go through the
filter so it isn't oscillator bleed and it doesn't track the keyboard.  The only
thing that really affects it is moving the arp switches.

I've found the noise goes away completely if I unplug the arp connector from the
356 board, but if I unplug the same cable from the other end, the noise remains,
but is reduced in volume.  I checked the cable and it seems good.

So I am thinking that either there is something wrong with my 356 board that is
causing this noise or perhaps their is an issue with the cable routing (perhaps
maybe it shouldn't be bundled with a power cable or something).

Thanks,
Chase

Alan Dicker schrieb:
>
>
> It could maybe be a Op Amp on that is leaking some timer data in to the
> signel path.  Haven't get scimatics or anything in front of me now

http://fa.utfs.org/diy/korg_monopoly/index.html


> but could be worth checking the outputs on any Op Amp assoctiated with the
Arp.
There are two connections from/to the arpeggiator (which is +5V
circuitry) to the OpAmp-World (which is +/-15V circuitry): The
arpeggiator resets the MG1.
MG1 feeds the Arpeggio Trigger in and the Arpeggio-Switche reset the MG1.
Since the signal at the osci is described like an cyclic enabled adress
line, I think the second option should be the suspected one. It might be
worth to interrupt this connection. It is the wire from LFO-Board
connector 6 pin 10 to uP-board connector 23 pin 10.

Btw: this is a modification I'd recommend anyway, if you do not want to
reset the arp-Clock with every new chord, that you play.

Florian


>
> --- On *Wed, 2/12/09, plus_321 /<plus_321@...>/* wrote:
>
>
>     From: plus_321 <plus_321@...>
>     Subject: [korg_mono-poly] Re: Mono/Poly doesn't turn on.
>     (Transformer gets really hot)
>     To: korg_mono-poly@yahoogroups.com
>     Date: Wednesday, 2 December, 2009, 8:23
>
>
>
>
>     I tried to use an oscilloscope today to check the power rails. I
>     check them on the 356 board, but the seemed fine and I could see any
>     significant fluctuations.
>
>     I realize that when I unplug the VCA out connector or power input on
>     the VCF board then the noise becomes much louder. So I was able to
>     put the scope on the output and see what it looks like. It appears
>     to be a constant frequency pulse wave with a small cycle length,
>     like 5-10%. The noise doesn't go through the filter so it isn't
>     oscillator bleed and it doesn't track the keyboard. The only thing
>     that really affects it is moving the arp switches.
>
>     I've found the noise goes away completely if I unplug the arp
>     connector from the 356 board, but if I unplug the same cable from
>     the other end, the noise remains, but is reduced in volume. I
>     checked the cable and it seems good.
>
>     So I am thinking that either there is something wrong with my 356
>     board that is causing this noise or perhaps their is an issue with
>     the cable routing (perhaps maybe it shouldn't be bundled with a
>     power cable or something).
>
>     Thanks,
>     Chase
>
>
>
>
>

Hello Gugaks,

welcome to the maillist. Don't hesitate to answer your questions
regarding the Monopoly.

With kind regards,
Florian Anwander (deputy)

  > The following person would like to join the korg_mono-poly group:
  > Email address: gugaks4 <korgms20@...>
  >
  > Comment from user:
  > hi, i'm thinking of purchaseing a monopoly, wanted to ask some
  > questions

Hey guys,

i'm having some tough time deciding on this. I have an MS20 and thinking of
selling it because it doesn't get much usage compared to my Roland Juno 60.

I find it really harsh and raw and the patchbay just doesn't do it for me. I
find ms20 a good instrument for a lab or experimental stuff, but when concerned
with making melodies, well, it's just not my cup of tea.

wanted to ask, will i regret it if taking a mono/poly? I've never played one,
only seen the youtube videos and know that it's quite a capable beast in terms
of ssequences which would be really nice to have!

any thoughts are welcome

best regards,
guga

Hi Guga

whether to let go a MS20 or not may be a difficult decision. A MS20 has
a signature sound, which you won't have with a MonoPoly. Though the
MonoPoly is quite unique from its architecture, its basic sound in
mono/unisono mode is close to other well known synths like a Prophet V
in unisono mode, or also most of the modern VA synths. Once again: The
sound is very good but not that unique.

But if you say, you are more on the melodic side of the musical life,
then a MonoPoly will be assumingly the better choice.
The MonoPoly has a much bigger sound for melodies or basses than the
MS20 or even the Juno60. For pads the Juno will be always ahead. For
arpeggios the MonoPoly will be equal to the Juno60, may even better,
because you have the possibility different settings for each VCO.

I you think about MIDIfying the MonoPoly, then you should go definitely
for the interface offered by CHD-Elektroservis
http://www.chd-el.cz/index.php?id=409

Using a normal MIDI/CV interface will hide most of the really glamourish
features of this instrument when controlled by MIDI.

Florian

gugaks4 schrieb:
> Hey guys,
>
> i'm having some tough time deciding on this. I have an MS20 and thinking of
selling it because it doesn't get much usage compared to my Roland Juno 60.
>
> I find it really harsh and raw and the patchbay just doesn't do it for me. I
find ms20 a good instrument for a lab or experimental stuff, but when concerned
with making melodies, well, it's just not my cup of tea.
>
> wanted to ask, will i regret it if taking a mono/poly? I've never played one,
only seen the youtube videos and know that it's quite a capable beast in terms
of ssequences which would be really nice to have!
>
> any thoughts are welcome
>
> best regards,
> guga
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

ms20 has a better filter (well actually two lp and hp), and a mono/poly
doesn't have external audio input.
those are the main advantages of the ms20 in my eyes (or ears actually)..

other than that, i think the mono/poly is fantastic and can do things
most analogs can't.
just don't think it's a poly instrument because of the name. the poly
mode works great for chord memory and arpeggiated stuff tho.

-michael

gugaks4 kirjoitti:
> Hey guys,
>
> i'm having some tough time deciding on this. I have an MS20 and thinking of
selling it because it doesn't get much usage compared to my Roland Juno 60.
>
> I find it really harsh and raw and the patchbay just doesn't do it for me. I
find ms20 a good instrument for a lab or experimental stuff, but when concerned
with making melodies, well, it's just not my cup of tea.
>
> wanted to ask, will i regret it if taking a mono/poly? I've never played one,
only seen the youtube videos and know that it's quite a capable beast in terms
of ssequences which would be really nice to have!
>
> any thoughts are welcome
>
> best regards,
> guga
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Thank you guys for all the replies.

Yeah, the MS surely has a character, but i think i'm quite fed up with it ).
Well, can't the mono/poly work as a 4 voice polyphony? or am i getting something
wrong?

to me, mono/poly sounds sometimes quite digital in a way, but that's not bad i
guess. I've got an MS2000, i wonder how they would mix together

--- In korg_mono-poly@yahoogroups.com, Michael Diekmann <crc@...> wrote:
>
> ms20 has a better filter (well actually two lp and hp), and a mono/poly
> doesn't have external audio input.
> those are the main advantages of the ms20 in my eyes (or ears actually)..
>
> other than that, i think the mono/poly is fantastic and can do things
> most analogs can't.
> just don't think it's a poly instrument because of the name. the poly
> mode works great for chord memory and arpeggiated stuff tho.
>
> -michael
>
> gugaks4 kirjoitti:
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > i'm having some tough time deciding on this. I have an MS20 and thinking of
selling it because it doesn't get much usage compared to my Roland Juno 60.
> >
> > I find it really harsh and raw and the patchbay just doesn't do it for me. I
find ms20 a good instrument for a lab or experimental stuff, but when concerned
with making melodies, well, it's just not my cup of tea.
> >
> > wanted to ask, will i regret it if taking a mono/poly? I've never played
one, only seen the youtube videos and know that it's quite a capable beast in
terms of ssequences which would be really nice to have!
> >
> > any thoughts are welcome
> >
> > best regards,
> > guga
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

Hi Guga

> Well, can't the mono/poly work as a 4 voice polyphony? or am i getting
something wrong?
It is and it is not. You have four VCOs (which can make chords), but you
have only one VCF, one VCA, each with its envelope.
Lets assume you have a sound with a slow attack: If you play chords
starting all notes at the same time, then you won't hear a difference to
e.g. the Juno60. But if you start a chord with two notes and add later
two other notes, the other notes will not fade in slowly (as you would
expect with a true polyphonic synth), but immediately, because the
envelope is already opened and the additional VCOs are switched on only.

If you play manually then the polyphony of the MonoPoly is ok, for
laying some simple chords, but you should not compare it to a true
polyphonic synth with a VCF for each voice. As Michael Diekmann wrote,
the poly mode mostly shows off ;-) at chord memory and arpeggiated stuff.

Florian


>
> to me, mono/poly sounds sometimes quite digital in a way, but that's not bad i
guess. I've got an MS2000, i wonder how they would mix together
>
> --- In korg_mono-poly@yahoogroups.com, Michael Diekmann <crc@...> wrote:
>> ms20 has a better filter (well actually two lp and hp), and a mono/poly
>> doesn't have external audio input.
>> those are the main advantages of the ms20 in my eyes (or ears actually)..
>>
>> other than that, i think the mono/poly is fantastic and can do things
>> most analogs can't.
>> just don't think it's a poly instrument because of the name. the poly
>> mode works great for chord memory and arpeggiated stuff tho.
>>
>> -michael
>>
>> gugaks4 kirjoitti:
>>> Hey guys,
>>>
>>> i'm having some tough time deciding on this. I have an MS20 and thinking of
selling it because it doesn't get much usage compared to my Roland Juno 60.
>>>
>>> I find it really harsh and raw and the patchbay just doesn't do it for me. I
find ms20 a good instrument for a lab or experimental stuff, but when concerned
with making melodies, well, it's just not my cup of tea.
>>>
>>> wanted to ask, will i regret it if taking a mono/poly? I've never played
one, only seen the youtube videos and know that it's quite a capable beast in
terms of ssequences which would be really nice to have!
>>>
>>> any thoughts are welcome
>>>
>>> best regards,
>>> guga
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Parting with my Mono/Poly.  Excellent cosmetic and working shape
(save for a couple scratchy pots and effects button that sometimes
needs a couple button presses to engage).

Email for pictures, price and more info.

In person sale only.  Minneapolis, MN.

Thanks.

Adam