LOL, I found a very funny picture and wanna know your opinion. Do u think this
picture is funny? Check the funny picture here:
http://funnypiccs.zoomshare.com/files/funny.htm

--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, "joshengen" <vitamyn@...> wrote:
>
> I've been planning to build an MC2 for over a year now and have not
> been able to find the time, but since I'm very greedy, I still desire
> one greatly.
>
> Would a skilled member of the MC2 community be willing to build such a
> device for me (if I were to promise to give them money from my wallet)?
>
> Thanks!
> Josh
>

I would advise just to go out and get the parts not all at the same time.
You could just get, let's say, one or two parts whenever you have time?
That way you wouldn't be using up your time for more important things.

Then once you have all the parts, you might want to just set aside
some time to build it, somehow.

Well, you should really spend some time with LSDJ first, before you
try to use midi. Make some good instruments, write some nice patterns.

Then, there are 2 different ways you can use LSDJ and midi-
1) write patterns on LSDJ, and have them play back in time with your
esx1.
2) design instruments on LSDJ and play them with patterns in your esx1.

Which do you want to do?
I'll assume you've read the LSDJ manual and the MC2 manual, and that
LSDJ and the MC2 are in the right modes.
For #1, you just need to make sure your electribe is outputting midi
clock.
For #2 you need to make sure you can send midi notes out from the
electribe. Then make a blank pattern on LSDJ and press play on the
gameboy. It will then wait for midi notes.

For either method, you should first press the learn button on the MC2,
and then send midi notes or clock (depending on which mode you're in)
from the electribe.

Like i said, the manuals for the LSDJ and MC2 should have all the info
you need for the GB and MC2 side. Then it's just a matter of making
sure your electribe is outputting the proper midi data. Sorry to be
like "RTFM," but seriously, RTFM first! Then give it a go, and come
back with questions! =]

-justin

--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, "marty" <martykraham@...> wrote:
>
> im new to making chiptunes> and really need a hand setting this up
> guys. ideally i want my esx1 electribe to be the master, and control
> lsdj thru my midi>gb (lsdjmc2) i have nanoloop, lsdj, and pixelh8 pro
> performer, i haven't really got lsdj figured out all that well, but
> figured i could use my electribe to make sounds come thru my gameboy
> with lsdj and run it thru the audio in>  any help would be awesome !!
> www.myspace.com/tvdeathsquad is my project
>
> =thanks marty
>

im new to making chiptunes> and really need a hand setting this up
guys. ideally i want my esx1 electribe to be the master, and control
lsdj thru my midi>gb (lsdjmc2) i have nanoloop, lsdj, and pixelh8 pro
performer, i haven't really got lsdj figured out all that well, but
figured i could use my electribe to make sounds come thru my gameboy
with lsdj and run it thru the audio in>  any help would be awesome !!
www.myspace.com/tvdeathsquad is my project

=thanks marty

Thanks a lot sir, I'll check it out :)
--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, firestARTer <firestarter@...> wrote:
>
> You Nak,
>
> this means that you didn't set your electribe correctly.
> It sends sync data but no start or stop i think. I know it works fine
> with the electribe, since i used one with it.
> So check your es1 settings and it'll be fine.
>
> Cheers
>
> NaK schrieb:
> >
> > Howdy, I've built an LSDJ-MC2 and was just making sure it was
> > functioning properly.
> >
> > When I hook my Korg ES-1 (drum machine) up and my DMG in slave mode
> > (with WAIT on the screen) I can start LSDJ by pressing the start/plus
> > button.
> >
> > But, when I press STOP on the ES-1 it doesn't stop LSDJ, I don't know
> > if this is supposed to happen or not.
> >
> > Full midi works, just doesn't stop when I press stop :P
> >
> >
>

You Nak,

this means that you didn't set your electribe correctly.
It sends sync data but no start or stop i think. I know it works fine
with the electribe, since i used one with it.
So check your es1 settings and it'll be fine.

Cheers

NaK schrieb:
>
> Howdy, I've built an LSDJ-MC2 and was just making sure it was
> functioning properly.
>
> When I hook my Korg ES-1 (drum machine) up and my DMG in slave mode
> (with WAIT on the screen) I can start LSDJ by pressing the start/plus
> button.
>
> But, when I press STOP on the ES-1 it doesn't stop LSDJ, I don't know
> if this is supposed to happen or not.
>
> Full midi works, just doesn't stop when I press stop :P
>
>

Howdy, I've built an LSDJ-MC2 and was just making sure it was
functioning properly.

When I hook my Korg ES-1 (drum machine) up and my DMG in slave mode
(with WAIT on the screen)  I can start LSDJ by pressing the start/plus
button.

But, when I press STOP on the ES-1 it doesn't stop LSDJ, I don't know
if this is supposed to happen or not.

Full midi works, just doesn't stop when I press stop :P

Hi there.

I'm selling a brand new LSDKMC 2 on eBay.
If anyone is interested, please check it out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110270541714&ssPageName=\
STRK:MESE:IT&ih=001

Item number: 110270541714

Thanks.
Dimitri

On 05/07/2008, kingconga42 <justin@...> wrote:
> That's exactly it, i was bypassing the regulator.
I missed your other mail when you changed the subject line. (:

/Ove

-----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/>
Blog:
<http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>
SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
<http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>
Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
-----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----

That's exactly it, i was bypassing the regulator.

The PIC seemed to function fine at 9v, it was still doing its job, but
it did get a little hot to the touch. The 7414 got too hot to touch,
and didn't function. When i started messing around with the circuit,
trying to find out what went wrong, i shorted something which caused
the PIC and the 7414 to die. On my second attempt (with a new PIC and
7414, but still bypassing the regulator), i managed to kill the PIC
but not the 7414 (in midi learn mode, FWIW). At that point, i decided
to check the voltages: the input of the regulator was at 5V, and the
output was at 9V, which is the opposite of what it should have been.
That's when i realized my careless mistake. So I moved the 9V+ to the
input of the regulator, burned a new PIC, and boom- i had a fully
working MC2.

The thing that was confusing me was the fact that the PIC was working
the whole time, but not the 7414. In retrospect, the voltage is the
FIRST thing i should have checked!

-justin
= burnkit2600.com =


--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, marco <marco@...> wrote:
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
>
> Il giorno 04/lug/08, alle ore 19:22, Ove Ridé ha scritto:
> > Wait a minute... The schematic contains a 7805 regulator. I don't see
> > how you could possibly accidentally feed the PIC with mroe than 5 V
> > unless you feed the 7805 with 40 V or something like that.
> > Or did it happen when programming the PIC?
>
> as far as i understood he was sort of "bypassing" the voltage
> regulator and was feeding the circuit with 9 volt unregulated.
>
> marco
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.9 (Darwin)
>
> iEYEARECAAYFAkhuZx8ACgkQ5A1A6ak/SoVaWACcDs/MIiiYkgEH/OuH9cwcLHls
> yfgAn1oLnFNP+kNHZjs8aw3emLp67TXP
> =FbjY
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1


Il giorno 04/lug/08, alle ore 19:22, Ove Ridé ha scritto:
> Wait a minute... The schematic contains a 7805 regulator. I don't see
> how you could possibly accidentally feed the PIC with mroe than 5 V
> unless you feed the 7805 with 40 V or something like that.
> Or did it happen when programming the PIC?

as far as i understood he was sort of "bypassing" the voltage
regulator and was feeding the circuit with 9 volt unregulated.

marco
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: GnuPG v1.4.9 (Darwin)

iEYEARECAAYFAkhuZx8ACgkQ5A1A6ak/SoVaWACcDs/MIiiYkgEH/OuH9cwcLHls
yfgAn1oLnFNP+kNHZjs8aw3emLp67TXP
=FbjY
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----

On 04/07/2008, kingconga42 <justin@...> wrote:
>  Remember kids: Don't feed your ICs too much voltage! They can't talk
>  like you and i can. If they get hot, that's their way of saying
>  they've had too much!
Wait a minute... The schematic contains a 7805 regulator. I don't see
how you could possibly accidentally feed the PIC with mroe than 5 V
unless you feed the 7805 with 40 V or something like that.
Or did it happen when programming the PIC?

/Ove

-----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/>
Blog:
<http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>
SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
<http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>
Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
-----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----

woohoo!
Yup. programmed a new PIC, popped it in, and now i'm in MIDI GB
heaven! (the other pic was toast, btw)

Remember kids: Don't feed your ICs too much voltage! They can't talk
like you and i can. If they get hot, that's their way of saying
they've had too much!

-justin
= burnkit2600.com =


--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, "kingconga42" <justin@...> wrote:
>
> Hooray! I'm an idiot!
> All my connections were good, except for ONE LITTLE thing- I had the
> input voltage (9V+) wired directly to the 5V rail, instead of the
> input of the voltage regulator! So the whole circuit was running on
> the unregulated 9V instead of regulated 5V! That's why the 7414 was
> getting hot. It was late at nite, and that was one of the last things
> i soldered. Guess it's not a good idea to solder when sleepy. =] I
> didn't look closely at my meter when i checked the first time. The
> output of the regulator was actually at 9V, and the input was at 5V,
> so it was working backwards, because of how i wired the power.
>
> I didn't think to check the power, because everything (except the
> 7414) seemed to be working. Until i accidentally shorted something,
> and burned out the pic. Maybe it just reprogrammed, as firestarter
> said, i'll find out tonite when i attempt to program a new one. I
> fried 2 pics and at least 1 7414 in the whole process!
>
> Hopefully i'll have good news to report soon.....
>
> thanks for the help guys!
>
> -justin
> = burnkit2600.com =
>
> --- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, firestARTer <firestarter@> wrote:
> >
> > Right,
> >
> > the KITT stuff etc works aswell without the 7414, put it out and
check
> > again. If it doesn't work it is more than possible that you
> accidentally
> > destroyed the PIC or did something with it's memory. ( I don't
know yet
> > from my head, but it could possibly be that you put it in program
mode
> > and erased a part of the flash memory.)
> > Well, in the end, start with replacing the Quart (cause it is alot
> > easier to get than a burned pic) , replace the 7414. If that doesn't
> > work, replace the PIC.
> >
> > greetings
> > firestARTer :-)
> >
> > Ove Ridé schrieb:
> > >
> > > 2008/7/2 kingconga42 <justin@
> > > <mailto:justin%40burnkit2600.com>>:
> > > > but then i accidentally shorted 2 pins on the
> > > > 7414 (vcc and it's neighbor, i think), and now NOTHING!
> > > The pin next to Vcc is an input pin, which means that connecting
it to
> > > Vcc is fine. The output that drives that input will likely be
> > > destroyed though. If your MC2 is built *exactly* according to the
> > > schematic on Firestarter's site, you should only have destroyed the
> > > 7414, which can easily be replaced. However, there's a chance that
> > > whoever built your MC2 connected that pin to the PIC chip. There are
> > > identical 6 inverters in the chip, and they can be interchanged
> > > without problem. This is not an error in construction, but if
yours is
> > > designed so that you've somehow shorted the PIC output to Vcc or
Gnd,
> > > you're likely screwed and need a new PIC chip.
> > >
> > > /Ove
> > >
> > > -----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> > > Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/ <http://flb.gg8.se/>>
> > > Blog:
> > > <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/
> > > <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>>
> > > SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
> > > <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?
> > > <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>>
> > > Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
> > > och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
> > > -----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> > >
> > >
> >
>

Hooray! I'm an idiot!
All my connections were good, except for ONE LITTLE thing- I had the
input voltage (9V+) wired directly to the 5V rail, instead of the
input of the voltage regulator! So the whole circuit was running on
the unregulated 9V instead of regulated 5V! That's why the 7414 was
getting hot. It was late at nite, and that was one of the last things
i soldered. Guess it's not a good idea to solder when sleepy. =] I
didn't look closely at my meter when i checked the first time. The
output of the regulator was actually at 9V, and the input was at 5V,
so it was working backwards, because of how i wired the power.

I didn't think to check the power, because everything (except the
7414) seemed to be working. Until i accidentally shorted something,
and burned out the pic. Maybe it just reprogrammed, as firestarter
said, i'll find out tonite when i attempt to program a new one. I
fried 2 pics and at least 1 7414 in the whole process!

Hopefully i'll have good news to report soon.....

thanks for the help guys!

-justin
= burnkit2600.com =

--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, firestARTer <firestarter@...> wrote:
>
> Right,
>
> the KITT stuff etc works aswell without the 7414, put it out and check
> again. If it doesn't work it is more than possible that you
accidentally
> destroyed the PIC or did something with it's memory. ( I don't know yet
> from my head, but it could possibly be that you put it in program mode
> and erased a part of the flash memory.)
> Well, in the end, start with replacing the Quart (cause it is alot
> easier to get than a burned pic) , replace the 7414. If that doesn't
> work, replace the PIC.
>
> greetings
> firestARTer :-)
>
> Ove Ridé schrieb:
> >
> > 2008/7/2 kingconga42 <justin@...
> > <mailto:justin%40burnkit2600.com>>:
> > > but then i accidentally shorted 2 pins on the
> > > 7414 (vcc and it's neighbor, i think), and now NOTHING!
> > The pin next to Vcc is an input pin, which means that connecting it to
> > Vcc is fine. The output that drives that input will likely be
> > destroyed though. If your MC2 is built *exactly* according to the
> > schematic on Firestarter's site, you should only have destroyed the
> > 7414, which can easily be replaced. However, there's a chance that
> > whoever built your MC2 connected that pin to the PIC chip. There are
> > identical 6 inverters in the chip, and they can be interchanged
> > without problem. This is not an error in construction, but if yours is
> > designed so that you've somehow shorted the PIC output to Vcc or Gnd,
> > you're likely screwed and need a new PIC chip.
> >
> > /Ove
> >
> > -----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> > Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/ <http://flb.gg8.se/>>
> > Blog:
> > <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/
> > <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>>
> > SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
> > <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?
> > <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>>
> > Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
> > och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
> > -----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> >
> >
>

Right,

the KITT stuff etc works aswell without the 7414, put it out and check
again. If it doesn't work it is more than possible that you accidentally
destroyed the PIC or did something with it's memory. ( I don't know yet
from my head, but it could possibly be that you put it in program mode
and erased a part of the flash memory.)
Well, in the end, start with replacing the Quart (cause it is alot
easier to get than a burned pic) , replace the 7414. If that doesn't
work, replace the PIC.

greetings
firestARTer :-)

Ove Ridé schrieb:
>
> 2008/7/2 kingconga42 <justin@...
> <mailto:justin%40burnkit2600.com>>:
> > but then i accidentally shorted 2 pins on the
> > 7414 (vcc and it's neighbor, i think), and now NOTHING!
> The pin next to Vcc is an input pin, which means that connecting it to
> Vcc is fine. The output that drives that input will likely be
> destroyed though. If your MC2 is built *exactly* according to the
> schematic on Firestarter's site, you should only have destroyed the
> 7414, which can easily be replaced. However, there's a chance that
> whoever built your MC2 connected that pin to the PIC chip. There are
> identical 6 inverters in the chip, and they can be interchanged
> without problem. This is not an error in construction, but if yours is
> designed so that you've somehow shorted the PIC output to Vcc or Gnd,
> you're likely screwed and need a new PIC chip.
>
> /Ove
>
> -----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/ <http://flb.gg8.se/>>
> Blog:
> <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/
> <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>>
> SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
> <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?
> <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>>
> Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
> och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
> -----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
>
>

Thanks.
There's a chance the 7414 was destroyed to begin with. It was getting
hot. I'll try replacing it and the PIC tonite.... wish me luck!

-justin
= burnkit2600.com =


--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, "Ove Ridé" <nitro2k01@...> wrote:
>
> 2008/7/2 kingconga42 <justin@...>:
> > but then i accidentally shorted 2 pins on the
> > 7414 (vcc and it's neighbor, i think), and now NOTHING!
> The pin next to Vcc is an input pin, which means that connecting it to
> Vcc is fine. The output that drives that input will likely be
> destroyed though. If your MC2 is built *exactly* according to the
> schematic on Firestarter's site, you should only have destroyed the
> 7414, which can easily  be replaced. However, there's a chance that
> whoever built your MC2 connected that pin to the PIC chip. There are
> identical 6 inverters in the chip, and they can be interchanged
> without problem. This is not an error in construction, but if yours is
> designed so that you've somehow shorted the PIC output to Vcc or Gnd,
> you're likely screwed and need a new PIC chip.
>
> /Ove
>
> -----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/>
> Blog:
> <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>
> SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
> <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>
> Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
> och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
> -----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
>

2008/7/2 kingconga42 <justin@...>:
> but then i accidentally shorted 2 pins on the
> 7414 (vcc and it's neighbor, i think), and now NOTHING!
The pin next to Vcc is an input pin, which means that connecting it to
Vcc is fine. The output that drives that input will likely be
destroyed though. If your MC2 is built *exactly* according to the
schematic on Firestarter's site, you should only have destroyed the
7414, which can easily  be replaced. However, there's a chance that
whoever built your MC2 connected that pin to the PIC chip. There are
identical 6 inverters in the chip, and they can be interchanged
without problem. This is not an error in construction, but if yours is
designed so that you've somehow shorted the PIC output to Vcc or Gnd,
you're likely screwed and need a new PIC chip.

/Ove

-----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/>
Blog:
<http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>
SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
<http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>
Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
-----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----

A friend gave me a breadboarded MC2. He had it working on the
breadboard once-upon-a-time, but it had been sitting in his closet for
a couple years. I soldered everything to a protoboard, and things were
starting out ok. It turned on, did the K.I.T.T. thing. Yay! I could
change modes. I could do MIDI learn, and the midi LED flashed when i
played midi notes. In sync mode, the led flashed to the beat. But
there was no response from the gameboy. I could not change
instruments, i could not sync. I noticed that the 7414 was getting a
little hot. I double and triple checked all the connections to it. I
thought that maybe the 7414 was damaged, so i tried to see if it was
getting power by putting an LED on the vcc and ground of the 7414. The
led flashed briefly, but then i accidentally shorted 2 pins on the
7414 (vcc and it's neighbor, i think), and now NOTHING! I still
measure 5V at the voltage regulator, but no LEDs are lighting up. KITT
is dead. =/

I obviously fried something. What components do you think i should try
replacing? My friend has extra parts, so i'm going to try replacing
all the chips and the crystal. Any other ideas?
Thanks!

-justin
= burnkit2600.com =

Hey Jesse,

did you get the lsdjmc2 to learn the midi channel?? The 'red' LED must
turn when pressing the learn button ( in full or compatible mode ) and
it flashes and goes off, when a midi-note was recognized.
If it doesn't, check your FL settings, if it is sending midi-data to the
correct midi-interface port. Also, you can check general midi settings
when starting the FL sequencer and use it as Master sync. In sync or
nano mode, the red led should flash with every beat.

If you think Midi doesn't work, try to swap the midi-wires on the midi
plug pin 4 and 5.
Another test to be sure if the gameboys are working is, when you are in
full/ compatible midi mode and use the gameboy in keyboard mode,
pressing the plus/minus button should change the instrument. So you can
be sure only the midi wiring is the problem(or FL).

good luck
firestARTer aka Frau Holle :-)

Jesse schrieb:
>
> I am building my 2nd LSDJMC2. My first attempt was about 2 years ago
> and I tried to make it with a PCB purchased for Radio Shack. I tried
> soldering all of the connections together and had a nasty mess of
> wires that looked like spigetti.
>
> I have since had my PCB manufactured and assembled it. I have the
> fimware programmed to the 16F628 and I think is workig. When I power
> up the circuit I get the KITT like effect accross the LEDs.
>
> I can press th Mode button and get it to change modes. I change the
> mode to FULL-MIDI and I try to set it to Learn Mode. At this point I
> am trying to USE FL8 to send the midi data to the LSDJMC2 and have it
> detect the midi channel.
>
> The red LED and the FULL-MIDI led dont blink or change.
>
> Im kind of at a loss for toubleshooting this. Can anyone give me some
> pointers as where to start and things to look for.
>
> Thank You,
> Jesse
>
>

I am building my 2nd LSDJMC2. My first attempt was about 2 years ago
and I tried to make it with a PCB purchased for Radio Shack. I tried
soldering all of the connections together and had a nasty mess of
wires that looked like spigetti.

I have since had my PCB manufactured and assembled it. I have the
fimware programmed to the 16F628 and I think is workig. When I power
up the circuit I get the KITT like effect accross the LEDs.

I can press th Mode button and get it to change modes. I change the
mode to FULL-MIDI and I try to set it to Learn Mode. At this point I
am trying to USE FL8 to send the midi data to the LSDJMC2 and have it
detect the midi channel.

The red LED and the FULL-MIDI led dont blink or change.

Im kind of at a loss for toubleshooting this. Can anyone give me some
pointers as where to start and things to look for.

Thank You,
Jesse

I've been planning to build an MC2 for over a year now and have not
been able to find the time, but since I'm very greedy, I still desire
one greatly.

Would a skilled member of the MC2 community be willing to build such a
device for me (if I were to promise to give them money from my wallet)?

Thanks!
Josh

Nope. Not for LSDJ.

But for nanoloop; http://www.nanoloop.com/midi.html

/F

On Tue, Mar 4, 2008 at 1:55 AM, noobed_saibot <ReiSoto@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> But nothing ready-made that I can just buy from somewhere?
>
>  Sorry if this is a re-post. I'm not sure if my original one got deleted
>  accidentally.
>
>  Thanks.
>
>  Noobed_Saibot
>
>

But nothing ready-made that I can just buy from somewhere?

Sorry if this is a re-post. I'm not sure if my original one got deleted
accidentally.

Thanks.

Noobed_Saibot

On 03/03/2008, noobed_saibot <ReiSoto@...> wrote:
> Is the firestARTer LSDJ-MIDI Converter the only way to MIDI sync or
>  clock MIDI with LSDJ right now (besides using DIY equipment)? I'm
>  asking in reference to a grey Game Boy using LSDJ. Thanks!
For most people the LSDj-MC2 _is_ a DIY project, because they build
them themselves.

There are at least two other useful projects though:
Arduinoboy, which essentially can do the same thing as the MC2, but is
still in deveopment. Right now it doesn't support MIDI note data or
nanoloop sync though. (But probably will some time in the future)
http://code.google.com/p/arduinoboy/

There's also Gijs Gieskes' master clock generator which will act as a
master sync device and output sync signals for MIDI, LSDj sync and
Sync24 (DIN sync)

Both these projects are based on Arduino, so they require less
electronic assembly than the MC2.

/Ove

-----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/>
Blog:
<http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>
SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
<http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>
Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
-----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----

Is the firestARTer LSDJ-MIDI Converter the only way to MIDI sync or
clock MIDI with LSDJ right now (besides using DIY equipment)? I'm
asking in reference to a grey Game Boy using LSDJ. Thanks!

Noobed Saibot

hey all, i have made it all the way to test point and i finally programed my IC,
but before i test
this thing i was wondering if there were a way to add 2 more link cables to the
MIDI thru
version of the LSDJMC2?  i already have the 2 link cables hooked up but i was
wanting to
make it 4.  can i use the same 74hc14 IC or do i need to add another for 2 more
cables?
thanks.

i have talked with the manufacturer and it sounds like i have ruined my
programmer in
some way.  i guess they specify different voltage ratings whether it's AC or DC
and i used
an AC adapter with the DC rating.  basically, higher rating=Fried.  bummer,
lesson
learned.  i have another programmer on the way and then hopefully i can ask some
less
annoying questions.
--- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, "athleos" <stuckinjhole@...> wrote:
>
> i also have tried winpicpog 1.91 and picall v0.16 which are both compatible
with my
> programmer and still no luck...
> --- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, "athleos" <stuckinjhole@> wrote:
> >
> > well, i have giveio downloaded and installed but i have no idea how to use
it. :)  with it
> > installed though i still get the same error.  could my programmer be
shorted, or my ic
> be
> > ruined?  i'm sorry to be such a pain!  thanks for all your help!
> > --- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com, firestARTer <firestarter@> wrote:
> > >
> > > It looks really like it is your LPT Port.
> > > What does make you sure that this is ok. A installed driver doesn't mean
> > > directly that it works.
> > > You could also try another software. I saw you can use also other
> > > softwares with it. Give it a try!
> > >
> > > athleos schrieb:
> > > >
> > > > it gives me the same error with no chip in the socket. this is such a
> > > > pain in the ass. am i
> > > > the only one having this much trouble?
> > > > --- In lsdjmc2@yahoogroups.com <mailto:lsdjmc2%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > "Ove Ridé" <nitro2k01@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > On 06/02/2008, athleos <stuckinjhole@> wrote:
> > > > > > Alright, the programmer is compatable with my pc, i have the
> > > > drivers i need the
> > > > program
> > > > > > is set up to run and does run, but there is an error at the end
> > > > that says verify failed at
> > > > > > address 0000h. i have talked with a few people and found that this
> > > > is a generic error
> > > > and
> > > > > > could mean any number of things. i've narrowed it down to what i
> > > > think is a faulty
> > > > diode
> > > > > > that i saw emit a little smoke last night... :( if it is not this
> > > > then i have no clue what
> > > > could
> > > > > > be the problem. on a side note, am i correct in assuming that the
> > > > oscillator should
> > > > be set
> > > > > > to XT due to the 20Mhz quart? also, i am having trouble finding
> > > > the caps and the
> > > > quart
> > > > > > that i need to finish this thing, can some one direct me to the
> > > > correct caps and where
> > > > to
> > > > > > find the quart. thanks again.
> > > > > To me, the verify error means that the write process failed. If you
> > > > > try starting the programming without any chip in the programmer. Does
> > > > > it still give you the same error, or another error in that case?
> > > > >
> > > > > /Ove
> > > > >
> > > > > -----BEGIN 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> > > > > Low Bitrate Netlabel: <http://flb.gg8.se/ <http://flb.gg8.se/>>
> > > > > Blog:
> > > > > <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/
> > > > <http://gameboygenius.8bitcollective.com/>>
> > > > > SKRIVA på Lysator. Ditt Ahrvid-fria alternativ:
> > > > > <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?
> > > > <http://lists.lysator.liu.se/mailman/listinfo/korkek?SKRIVA?>>
> > > > > Sätt på ett par flipflops, vippa på rumpan
> > > > > och gör det här till en minnesvärd sommar!
> > > > > -----END 2ROT13 MESSAGE-----
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Il giorno 07/feb/08, alle ore 10:01, Fredrik Stolpe ha scritto:

> Perhaps thomas or anyone could confirm that this would be a correct
> programmer.
>
> If you want me to burn the pic for you and mail it, no prob.
>
> I can buy the pic from here for about 5 EUR + postage (PIC16F628-20I/
> P);
> http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=6685.htm


hi and thanks for the offer. I seem to have tracked down the problem.
It seems i have a wrong optocoupler: 6n138 should be the right one,
while i was sold another one and did not notice that before : |.
Anyway, the one i have is a dual channel version of the optocoupler,
have a look at
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0779/0900766b80779702.pdf
   and at the internal schematics. could it work if i use pins 3 and 4
(which ootput to line 6 as expected)?
i think there is a way to let it work, but i am a real beginner in
electronics.

marco